Day 54. Where's the PCT?

12 miles
801 to 813
6/2/14

This was suppose to be an easy day. Short miles to get set up for the next pass tomorrow.  Crossing Pinchot Pass wasn't suppose to be as hard as the others. Well then how come I'm so freaking exhausted?!?!? Argh!!!

Woo hoo!  Now, where's the trail?!?!

The PCT is covered in snow in many places. This is a low snow year, but we are early so that means plenty of snow. So often, Arizona and I say, "Where is the trail?"  It is lost under the snow.  The footprints we usually follow go off in all directions, and are often obscured by suncups- the snow melts in waves and then refreezes. It takes us forever to find our way and them climb over all the snow to the pass.

Are those footprints or suncups?

We joke about how we wish there were white blazes every 10 feet like on the Appalachian Trail.  We joke how we are earning more bonus miles because we have to hike back and forth to find the trail.  But really we are frustrated by our slow progress. How can we possibly be going at 1 mile per hour? Aren't we in better shape than that?  We try to remember to be patient.  "Smiles not miles!"

Arizona climbs to the pass.

When we do find the trail, it is often a flowing stream or mud hole. Our feet are constantly wet from all the fords. So far only knee high depths, but we met a couple going southbound and hear that Bear Creek is waist deep and the woman got knocked over by the force of the water.

We had thought we might do two passes today, but we stopped after only 12 miles and relaxed in the sun by the river. The river cuts a narrow canyon as it waterfalls through the valley.  I soak in the views and check out the wildflowers and watch the clouds.

Taking a break by the river.

On the way to camp we meet a few other guys who are stopping early too, rather than going over the next pass. "We are all passed out!" they say. Hahaha! So am I!

Early to camp, but glad for the extra rest.

Day 53. Glen Pass

11.5 miles
790 to 801.5
6/1/14

Descending down Glen Pass was one of the most scary and exhilarating things I've experienced. The wall of snow that covered the slope and buried the trail had several sets of tracks, all of which looked impossibly steep. Some rocks stuck above the snow, but mostly it was a huge snow-covered slope. I could not believe we could walk down such a steep incline without slipping and falling on the rocks below. I am not exaggerating when I say that I scanned the area for dead bodies of other hikers, since it seemed so unbelievable to me that all of us hikers could survive this.

Impossibly steep snow.

The only thing I could do to keep being terrified out of my mind was to trust that Arizona and I would find a way down if we choose a route and slowly made our way down, step by step. I reminded myself that I was a strong hiker and that my snow course had prepared me for this.

I made it up Glen Pass!

I also knew we had taken the time to get the timing for this pass right to make it safer-  but not to arriving too early when it would be icy, or too late when it could be slushy and unstable.

Still it was a tough descent, unlike anything I've ever done.  All the tracks we tried to follow were poorly formed and unstable.  Arizona decided to kick out fresh cross-steps parallel to the main tracks. I followed behind, white knuckle grips on my hiking poles. Each step took intense concentration and balance. I tested each foothold before lifting my other foot and shifting my weight, poles planted firmly each time.

This is what we went down.  I still can't believe it since it was so steep.

When my legs started shaking from the exertion, I sat down in the snow exhausted, breathing hard, trembling.  I knew I had to keep moving, but I also tried to savor the moment too.  Briefly I looked around at the incredible scenery. Rae Lakes spread out before us- unbelievably stunning. I didn't linger though- forward progress was essential for getting down before the snow got slushy and unstable and the risk of postholing increased.

We made it to a rock pile and I took the lead, making our way over loose rocks.  Moving with speed and agility over the rocks made me feel more confident- I love to rock hop.  

The descent seemed to go on forever, and we could never see where we needed to go next because it was so incredibly steep.

As we descended, the risk of postholing increased. We sunk up past our knees in a couple spots, which was also scary because it would be easy to break a leg that way.

Near the bottom, the slope was more gradual so we glissaded down, giggling and laughing. What fun!!! Though I tore a few holes in my long underwear.  Totally worthwhile though.

Glassading down Glen Pass.

It was such an incredible feeling to have accomplished something so physically challenging and terrifying. Being so in the moment made me feel incredibly alive. It is still hard for me to comprehend that I actually traveled over that steep snowy terrain, to have done the impossible.

The rest of the day was absolutely breathtaking.  Rae Lakes were incredibly blue with huge peaks surrounding them. Then we also saw huge waterfalls swollen with snow melt. I've no words to describe the incredible beauty, the powerful feeling of being so small and insignificant amid the immensity and vastness.

Rae Lakes.

We are completely exhausted. I certainly thought I'd be doing more miles, but these are tough miles.  My body hurts more than ever, and I am mentally exhausted from concentrating so intently on every step.  I am grateful to collapse into the comfort of my hammock and to sleep deeply so my body can heal and recover for the next pass tomorrow.

At home in my hammock.

Day 51. Forester Pass

15 miles
774 to 788.4, then 1 mile up Bull Frog Trail
5/28/14

Woohoo I made it over Forester Pass today!!!! I can hardly believe it! Forester Pass is the highest point on the PCT and it has a reputation as being a difficult pass. 

The part I thought sounded the most scary was the "chute" which is a traverse right near the top. I'd been building this up in my mind for the past few years, and had been so nervous about it the last few days. 

Since it is a low snow year, I didn't expect much snow. But there sure was a ton of snow, I guess because it is still early in the season! It made for beautiful scenery, but also a tough and exhausting day.

The climb and switchbacks up wasn't as bad as I thought. I guess I'm getting used to the feeling of not being able to breathe. I just keep hiking.

I had been advised to cross Forester in a group, and I was really thrilled to meet up with a great group today. We struck together in a team of six- Arizona, Tent Stakes (recent college grad), Double Tap, and John and Karmin (current students at Columbia). Double Tap was more experienced and lead the way, provided encouragement, pointed out things to watch out for, kept us moving at a faster pace when we needed to, and provided a hand on a few tricky slippery parts. Thank you Double Tap for helping us all out! I was so glad that we stuck together it made it much safer and much more fun.

I'd read a lot about the importance of timing the passes just right for optimal snow conditions. We got to the pass around 10:30 which provided solid footholds on the climb. But the snow got a bit slushy on the descent and made me wish we'd started sooner. The descent was actually the hardest part. We traveled fast to try to beat the softening snow. The traverses of the snow fields were much longer on the way down and much more slippery. I used my microspikes, but no one else did, and only John carried an ice ax. The descent seemed to take forever- there were fields of snow, a few steep traverses, and them lots of places where we were trying not to posthole over melting streams beneath the snow and snow-covered rock fields. The trail was buried beneath the snow in many places, so we had to find our way.

I'm so thrilled to have the first pass under my belt. There are many more to come, and hopefully they won't be so difficult- or at least I won't be so nervous.

The Sierra continues to be beautiful, but today I was so focused on my footsteps and not slipping, that I didn't have much time to enjoy being here until I got to camp.

One thing that I do love about the Sierra is all the water. We walk on snow and pass by ice-covered lakes. Streams are everywhere so we don't have to carry much water. The downside is that my feet and shoes are constantly wet- both from fording streams and from walking on snow. Such a change from just a few days ago when water was scarce and my feet were always sandy and dry. Ah the ever-changing PCT!

Day 50. Waterfalls and alpine lakes

8 miles
766 to 774 (Tyndall Creek Ford)

Today was a short mileage day to get set up before Forester Pass tomorrow. After doing high miles and always feeling the drive to push towards Canada, I had a hard time trying to figure out what to do with the extra time.

At Wallace Creek (mile 770), Arizona saw a sign for Kern Hot Springs in 11.8 miles. Wow a hot springs! I was in a quandary about whether or not to go. I ended up hiking down the trail with Arizona for an hour before turning around. In that time, we saw the most spectacular scenery I've seen out here thus far. A gorgeous waterfall- absolutely breathtaking in a valley surrounded by mountain peaks.

 Hiking with Arizona is a blast- he jokes around a lot and we have great conversations. It feels like hanging out with an old friend, even though I've only known him a few days. 

Arizona really wanted to go all the way to the hot springs, but I was reluctant to venture so far from the PCT. For one thing, I didn't have a map. But the deciding factor was that I had in my head that I need to stay moving towards Canada. That a diversion even to something as wonderful as a hot springs wasn't part of the Plan. I realize that I seem to be getting even more goal driven and concerned about making miles. I had hoped before starting the PCT to take time for side trails- I hoped I take time to enjoy the scenery. But I got scared. In the end Arizona and I parted ways, and I headed back to the PCT. 

I ran into Robin at a stream ford. She is "thru-fishing" the PCT, and we went off-trail exploring out to an alpine lake for a few hours to look for fishing holes. We circled around the lake, trooped through bogs, and stared in awe at the gorgeous scenery. It turned out to be such a stunning day because of my forays away from the PCT.

I am camped at the ford at Tyndall Creek (10,800 feet) with a bunch of other hikers setting up before Forester. Arizona arrived at camp late in the evening and even though he didn't make it all the way to the hot springs, he had quite an adventure and saw tons more waterfalls. I'm so glad he made it here so we can climb Forester together tomorrow.

Day 49. Whitney

Mount Whitney is the highest peak in the lower 48 at 14,505 feet. There is a 8.5 mile side trail off the PCT that climbs to the summit. Many PCT hikers take an extra day to climb it while others skip it. SlowBro and MeToo decided they weren't going to climb it, but Arizona wanted to (by the way Arizona got his trail name because he just hiked the Arizona Trail- how cool is that!). I decided that since I had enough food, I would take an extra day to climb Whitney with Arizona while the others went on ahead. Hopefully I'll see the other guys down the trail it was great hiking with them.

Timberline Lake.

Many people camp at Guitar Lake before climbing Whitney, or wake up really early in the AM to get a pre-dawn start. Unfortunately, I just didn't have the energy for either of those options. Yesterday, Arizona and I didn't arrive at Crabtree Meadows until nearly 8 PM. I thought by now I'd be a super strong hiking machine, but just when I thought I was finally in thru hiker shape, the PCT throws in extra challenges like the weight of the bear canister, microspikes, and extra clothes, and elevations over 10,000 feet. Phew! I remain humbled.

Up the valley towards the switchbacks.

So, last night we camped at the junction and then set out at 6 AM to climb Whitney.

The hike up to Guitar Lake was stunning. Snowmelt mountain streams rushed down the valley.

Gorgeous lakes.  I never get tired of rocks and snow and water.

The trail then switchbacked up to the Whitney Trail Portal junction at 13,519 feet. At one point I heard rocks falling down the slope above me, and had to dart up the trail. Thankfully, we reacted in time to avoid them.

Snow fields were icy on the way up. I'd been pretty scared about them. There were good kick steps already established. I crossed the snowy traverses with my microspikes, and cheered after crossing each one. I was definitely glad I had taken a snow skills class. Those traverses are one of those things that make me feel so good to face my fears, but they sure did take it out of me.

Grateful to be following in the footsteps.

The trail got sketchy for a while after the junction. Lots of boulders and ice and sheer drop offs. The air was thin, and breathing was difficult. I noticed I quit looking around, quit enjoying being up there. I started feeling pretty uncomfortable with the level of exertion, and I was so tired of being tired. I knew I was in this beautiful place, but I couldn't appreciate it because it was taking all my energy just to keep moving slowly forward and not fall down. It was also getting late and I realized I'd been climbing for 7 hours and had only done about 7.5 miles! Even though we were less than a mile to the top, I decided to turn around. I was really surprised Arizona decided to turn around too. Even though I was disappointed, it was such a relief to start heading down. I instantly felt energized. I could see the amazing views and feel awe at the sheer peaks and other-worldly landscapes.

Approaching trail junction on the descent.

I was disappointed in myself for not making it to the top. I know I could have made it if I'd pushed myself harder. It made me so self-aware of how I worry and tend to be overly cautious. I lack self-confidence. Sometimes I wish I could change that about myself and take more risks. Other times I think I should be more accepting of my cautious nature and realize it is just part of who I am.

Many moments of self-reflection as I push myself to my limit, and a bit beyond.

But I was glad for the experience of attempting to climb Whitney. It was helpful getting practice at those elevations because I was really nervous about climbing over Forester Pass, highest point on the PCT. Knowing I could handle the traverses gave me an extra confidence boost.

On the way down, I had time to stop and take a refreshing dip at a small snow melt lake. I relaxed in the sun and felt the soft grass between my toes. It was the first time I actually felt glad to to be in the Sierras, and not in a state of disorientation at the strangeness of this place. I glided down the slushy snow fields with glee. Actually enjoying the snow for the first time. Remembering to play. And remembering to listen to my body, not being so goal oriented but instead focusing on the journey and not the destination.

Drying out after a refreshing dip in the icy waters.

We got back to Crabtree Meadows by 7 pm and we are camped here again. I can't believe how tired I am!

Hanging at Crabtree Meadows.

Day 46. Second start from KM

17 miles
704 to 721.7
5/24/14

We escaped the vortex of Kennedy Meadows and headed back up into the Sierra. What a difference three days made. No snow on the ground (yet), and just a few drops of rain. It feels like a different trail compared to the white out conditions and energy-sapping cold and wet we had before we bailed and retreated from the storm back to Kennedy Meadows.

Packs felt heavier with the new gear. Yesterday Slim gave SlowBro, MeToo, Arizona, and I a ride into Lone Pine. I picked up a package with my gortex socks and larger size shoes to fit thicker socks, and pants. I also bought a long underwear top and bottom plus mittens at the outfitter. In town, I saw Blue Yonder who made it out at Cottonwood Pass. She said some other hikers had been stuck in the snow for two nights. Town was full of hikers that had escaped the snow. It made me feel like is made a good decision to turn around when we did.

I'm still nervous about the snow ahead but I feel better prepared. Now I have similar clothes to what I wore for my snow skills class, so hopefully I won't freeze this time. I have a baselayer top, fleece hoodie, down coat, raincoat, and hiking shirt. Plus hiking pants, rain pants, and two pair of leggings that I can layer at night, or hike in one during the day and keep the other dry for sleeping. Though the weather changed so much, I hope it's not overkill.

SlowBro, MeToo, and I stopped early because we are getting up to higher elevations so wanted to stop at this campsite. Though there are trees around, the ones up here are widely spaced giants. Not an easy hang. Took me forever to set up. Next time I might do what SlowBro did and hang from branches of the tree rather than the huge trunk.

Feeling excited about the Sierra!

Day 44. Back to Kennedy Meadows

720.5 back to 702.3
5/22/14

All my wet gear was frozen solid by morning. By the time I'd wrangled my feet into frozen shoes, bundled up my ice-encrusted tarp, and decided to wear my sleeping clothes while hiking, it started to snow again. We climbed into deeper and deeper snow for about half and hour. Despite the exertion, my toes slowly went numb from the cold.

I stopped to eat, hoping more calories would help, and MeToo stopped with me. Suddenly MeToo bent over, saying he felt like he might pass out. Apparently, this happens to him sometimes, and could have been related to his blood pressure medication, combined with the strain and altitude. I watched him collapse onto the ground. Yikes! I was so worried he would hit his head as he fell. He came to, but was very pale. I called out to SlowBro and Blue Yonder for help. SlowBro is a doctor and assessed MeToo. Fortunately, MeToo felt better after resting and drinking some hot water.

SlowBro and Blue Yonder care for MeToo.

We debated what to do. We were heading deeper into the Sierra, it was snowing, we were all very cold, and going to even higher altitudes with what happened to MeToo didn't seem like a good idea. We were already planning to head into town at Cottonwood Pass the next day- there was more snow up there then we'd bargained for and more was coming down. I needed to pick up my gortex socks in Lone Pine, and MeToo needed a new sleeping bag. SlowBro, MeToo and I decided to turn around and head back to Kennedy Meadows. Blue Yonder decided to hike on. It was great hiking with Blue Yonder, and I wish her safe and joyful travels and hope to see her again someday.

MeToo takes a hot drink.

 It felt weird hiking back especially when we got to lower elevation where there was no snow. When we looked up at the mountains, we could see they were covered in clouds so it looked like it snowed all day up there. On our hike out, we just had some rain.

Back to Swallow Bridge.

I think it was a good decision to bail. While I was warm during the night in my hammock, I was pretty cold while hiking. My hiking clothes are not the ones I wore in my snow skills class since I was thinking there would be warmer weather during the day here. And it felt like the right thing to do hiking back with MeToo. I was really glad for an excuse to turn back. And it made me feel better that SlowBro hiked back too-- otherwise I'd feel like I was a wimp. Especially with other hikers continuing on. I know I could have done it, but it was going to be very hard and it was no fun being that cold.

SlowBro follws MeToo back to Kennedy Meadows.

Tomorrow we are going to the outfitter and post office in Lone Pine.  Hopefully this delay will give the snow up there a chance to melt while we get better prepared.