Day 159- Ridgewalk from Sonora Pass

Day 159, 9/14/14
1017 (above Sonora Pass) to 999.8 (near Cascade Creek)
17 miles

One of the most breathtaking days on the trail.  My friend Renee/Pathfinder had raved about the 10 mile ridgewalk between Kennedy Canyon Creek and Sonora Pass, so I'd been really looking forward to it.  But it wasn't an easy start.  Climbing with the bear canister weighted down with 5 days food.  Wobbling at first, unsteadily with the extra weight.  I haven't carried this much for months.  Loose gravel, each step sliding.  Traverses with big drop offs.  I know I used to be able to do this, that I did this through the Sierra in early June.  But that was before the fracture.  I break into a cold sweat.  Where is the oxygen, where is my balance?  Baby steps, don't look down, don't look down, baby steps. 

Climbing in the early morning.

At the top I'm met with bone-chilling wind and technicolor peaks of pink and purple.  The sweat feels like ice and I can't linger.  Sorry my poor feet, I must keep moving.  As the sun comes up and the trail flattens out, I can start to breathe and my body remembers how to carry the bear canister.  And oh it is so worth it and I forget my feet and I forget everything.  I soak it all in.

OMG this is an amazing sunrise.

First rays of light hitting the peaks.

The first light illuminates the rocks.  So many colors.  Breathtaking.  I think about a conversation I had the previous day with some friendly dayhikers.  When I'd asked them about this area, they said this section was sort of empty and stark.  I'd imagined something ugly when they described it, but this landscape has a beauty that captivates me.  Like how I felt out in the desert- I love the starkness.  How life clings out here.  I wonder why some people (like me) find this so beautiful.  I also know I am seeing it in the mesmerizing colors of first light, that most people don't wake up so crazy early to get up here to see it like this.

Light up lichen.

Tiny, unfamiliar flowers are everywhere.  How cool!  Forgetting the cold, my pack is tossed off, and I'm down on hands and knees getting a close look.  I am fascinated by the diversity, by the fact I've never seen some of these plants.  I love how life thrives in such seemingly inhospitable habitats.

Discarded in all the wildflower excitement.

OMG!  What are these pods?  Some sort of legume?

WOW! So tiny and cute (she says not-so scientifically...)

The gentleman that gave me a ride back to the trail the previous day said that the treeline is higher than he's ever seen.  That years ago, there were no trees up so high, that global warming was altering the landscape at an alarming rate.  If these alpine places are shrinking, how long will it take before all of this is gone here?

Unbelievable colors.

Life.

Starting the descent to Kennedy Canyon Creek.

***
Mid-morning, I met a couple that was setting out to hike the High Sierra Route.  I was so excited when I heard this because I've been reading about this cross-country traverse, and have it as a long-term goal.  It requires expert navigation skills because it is largely off-trail, but goes off to some really wild areas.  I asked them a million questions about how to train for doing the High Sierra Route.  I thought of all the boulder scrambling and off-trail travel I've been doing lately and how I want to do more of that, take my skills to a new level.  And soon the dreamin' was taking hold, even though I have no idea how it will happen and I'd be scared to do it alone.  Anyway, I hiked with them a while, and kept meeting them and hiking together and talking about life, the trail, and southbounding.  Fascinating people I hope I run into them again someday.

This couple heading off to do the High Sierra Route.

***
The couple hiked on, but I stopped early to stay at a lower elevation.  The wind had been blowing all day and I wanted some shelter.  So I found a grove of trees surrounded by willow.  Quiet.  Still.  My head still spinning from the stunningly beautiful ridgewalk, and I fell asleep dreaming of the High Sierra Route, and the places I could go if I left the easy trail, and headed off in my own direction.

Sheltered hang.

Day 158- Sonora Pass

Day 158, 9/13/14
1022 to 1017
5 miles

Descended to Sonora Pass, where I had to get 10 miles off the PCT to Kennedy Meadows Resort to resupply for the next section.  Hitchhiking is tough for me.  I don’t like putting myself at the mercy of others or asking for help.

Descending to Sonora Pass.

After about an hour of standing at the roadside, presenting my sweetest smile and trying not to look like a crazy person, a nice couple picked me up.  Phew!  They had daughters that had backpacked and had needed hitches themselves.  So it felt like I was part of a web of generosity that I will try to pay forward.  Thank you so much for the ride Larry and Pam!

Please pick me up!

I picked up my resupply box and bear canister, had an egg breakfast and ice cream, and got another  hitch from another wonderful couple back out to Sonora Pass.  Sorry I forgot your names but thank you!

Bear canister bursting with goodies.

Entered the Emigrant Wilderness and climbed above Sardine Creek to the last stand of trees.  Even though it was early, I didn't want to go any further because that would take me above treeline, and I wanted to be all set up for an early morning traverse of the the ridgewalk that Renee/ Pathfinder told me was “epic."

Hanging above Sardine Creek.

Day 157: Wolf Creek Lake

Day 157, 9/12/14

1041 (Wolf Creek) to 1022 (Wolf Creek Lake)

18 miles

The trail had more animal prints than people prints today.  Sitting quietly eating 2nd breakfast, a coyote rounded the corner and just like that we were a stones throw from one another.  I could see the pattern of his fur, the look in his eyes.  Then, he dashed off. 
Awesome! 

Left the cows in the valley, and climbed up the East Fork of the Carson River canyon beneath towering granite peaks.

Headwaters of the East Fork Carson River.

Normally I camp at lower elevation but this evening I decided to take a risk, hoping for an incredible view.   So, I kept climbing up to 10,200 feet where the wind was howling.  The Wolf Creek Lake saddle would have been freezing in my hammock.  So I descended off the PCT down to the lake, but the wind was fierce there too, I was still so high up.  More bushwhacking, more exploring to find a sheltered campsite in the lee of a rock.  It made me wonder if I shouldn't have just camped earlier down below, taken the safe and easy campsite.  All the off-trail travel was exhausting on top of the long climb.

Bushwhacking.

Finally, I found some shelter from the wind.  I was a whole 0.3 miles from the PCT- sheesh turned out to be more bushwhacking and boulder scrambling than I expected. 

Will the extra effort be worthwhile?  Right now I'm sore and tired, but snug in my hammock.  Happy of course too that I pushed myself.  Plus I realize I like the exploring and getting a deeper sense of this place, seeing how the wind moves through the landscape.  I don't have that insight when I stay down below where it is safe but where I can't see anything. So no matter what, the effort is worthwhile from what I learned from being up here, and from experiencing the joy of romping around the lake.  I remember how rewarding it is when I get off the trail and do my own thing.

***

The next morning, the sunrise is breathtaking from my vantage point high up.  Totally enchanting light and the feet were feeling well-rested.  I was so glad that I hiked up to the pass, and pushed myself out of my comfort zone.

Sunrise over Wolf Creek Lake

Flowers bathed in alpineglow.

More views from up high.

Softer color of late morning.

Day 156: South from Ebbetts Pass

Day 156, 9/11/14
1050 (Ebbetts Pass) to 1041 (Wolf Creek)
9 miles

Took a zero day yesterday with Steph to get ready for my third section since the stress fracture- going south from Ebbetts Pass back to Tuolumne Meadows (Yosemite).  Breezed through packing food and washing gear.  Then spent hours and hours on the latest blog posts.  Too many photos I can't decide which to post.  Struggling to find words to express the experience of the last section.  Then the day is gone and I have to push "publish" even though I could do better if I just had more time to edit.

I still get butterflies in my belly the night before I leave to get back on the trail.  Rougher terrain and the higher elevations are ahead.  And I associate Tuolumne Meadows with the pain of the stress fracture, since that's where I hobbled off the trail.  So, gear has been paired down further.  Giving up the umbrella and 2nd shoes (the trail runners).   They say you pack your fears (ie bring lots of clothes if your fear is the cold).  My pack has never been lighter but I can't tell if this is because I'm fearless, or because there is no material thing that I can use to ward off the remaining fears.

***
After being out here for a few hours, the pre-hike jitters are replaced with confidence.  I am in my element out on the PCT.  Pack resting reassuringly against my back.   If I do encounter adverse conditions, I know I will handle them.

Sunny.

 Entered the Carson- Iceberg Wilderness.  Cow pies on the trail and eroded banks around water sources.  Cattle country.  The cows have bells that jingle loudly.  Echoing up the valley like the sound of rain on a metal roof.  Homey.  This is not the dangerous inhospitable Sierras of my imagination.  Nothing I haven't dealt with before.

Cows with jingling bells.

Met one backpacker today, Jimmy D.  He grinned at me with recognition and said he'd been following my blog.  Wow I'm always surprised that there are people out there reading my blog.   Tongue-tied I considered asking him about his cuben pack which is the same kind my friend just told me she's looking at.  But I didn't really care about gear.  What I really I wanted to ask him how he has set up his life so he gets to do overnights here in this gorgeous spot- find out if there is a secret because I want this as my backyard.  But all I can think is that I can’t believe he read my blog, and I get all self-conscious.  Finally I blurted out a question about water.

He reported there was good flow at the spring above Asa Lake and added that the swimming there should be good and there was no one else there.  OMG he knows I like swimming!  Well duh I guess I do say that a lot here in the blog.

My feet sighed with relief at the cool water of Asa Lake.  The waters teeming with life.  Banks lined with the colors of fall.

Asa Lake.

The calls of coyotes rose from the valley as I descended to where I camped for the night.  Wolf Creek.  I passed by the established campsites near the trail and head uphill a ways along a meadow and into a sheltered grove.  Does wanting to be hidden make me less fearless?

The first night out is always a little rough, I reminded myself.  Especially the hour after the sun goes down when I can still hear scurrying sounds but can no longer see the chipmunk silhouettes.  Not quite tired enough to just collapse into sleep.  The grrrr of my rumbling stomach startles me and I instinctively reach for my headlamp to see what made the sound.  Finally I remembered that my hammock is a magic impenetrable fortress of safety and comfort where no harm can befall me.  Then I fell sound asleep.

Home sweet home.

Day 154: Into Carson Pass (again!)

Day 154, 9/9/14
1084 (Showers Lake) to 1078 (Carson Pass)
5.5 miles

Another sunrise.  Ahh this is the life.  Spent the morning sitting on the rocks by the shore of Showers Lake.  Just watching the light.   And the chipmunks playing.

Showers Lake.

Yesterday's storms brought colder temperatures and morning frost down in the meadow.  Still chilly after wearing all of my clothes and snacking on peanut butter.  But not enough to wish I had carried the weight of a warmer clothes.  Rather be cold then stress the poor feet with extra weight.

Fall color along Showers Lake.

Hiked through a broad valley along the Upper Truckee River.  The Meiss family built a cabin here in the 1880's that they used in the summer for grazing cattle.  Sat by the old buildings having lunch and wondered what life was like here back then.

Meiss Cabin.

The trail dropped through juniper and aspen on the way to Carson Pass.  There, I met Steph who was so sweet to bring me my favorite- salad!  Yum!  I'll take a zeros with her tomorrow.  Haven't showered in 8 days but with all the swimming I don't feel dirty.  Just a bit weathered.  And completely, utterly, indescribably happy.

Salad with mango salsa dressing.  Mmmm.

***
Reflecting on this section between Sierra City and Carson Pass, I am overwhelmed with gratitude for being back on the PCT.  Thankful to all those who have helped me get through the injury.  I am delighted that the pace of this trip allowed me to have a good balance, and to take the time for other things.  Anticipating spending more time in camp, my planning centered around getting myself to beautiful campsites and finding mid-day swimming holes.  I got to study light, guess where the sun would rise so I could position myself to take photos.  I got to talk to so many wonderful people.

Listening to my body has been going better. I'm less frustrated not being able to do the kind of miles I could before the injury.  I am grateful for what my body can do, all the amazing places they are taking me.  Most days, I had to coax the last few miles out of the feet with frequent rest breaks, massages, and stream soaks.  But I think it's all muscle sore because they responded well to the extra care.

A note on my footware because it's been something I've struggled with after the injury...  I've been carrying two sets of shoes, altra trail runners (what I've been wearing the past 6 months and when I got the injury) and keen trail shoes (a style which I wore for a few years before switching to trail runners).  Never carried two sets of shoes, but I'm doing all I can to take care of my feet right now.

Changing shoes.

Switching out between two sets of shoes was excellent for my muscles and joints because each shoe worked my feet and calves in different ways- ideal cross training.  The doctors said that the stiffer soles of real hiking shoes will prevent reinjury, so I tried to wear them most of the time.  Though the keens created their own set of problems in the form of bunion pain and increased pressure on the balls of my feet due to the heal rise.  The wide toe box of the altras allowed my toes to spread out so I never had bunion pain in them (one reason I switched to them in the first place).  Also, the altra trail runners allowed my feet to flex to really wrap the ground and I love that agile feeling.  In an ideal world, there would be shoes with the wide toe box and zero drop of the altras but a stiffer sole (can someone please make these!). Since there aren't, I'm hoping my feet will adjust to the keens for the rocky terrain in the next section.  I know I can't carry both shoes with the bear canister next week.  And I will work on strengthening my feet so I can go back to the altras for easier conditions in the future.

Overall though, I was thrilled how this section went and I'm excited for the next part between Ebbetts Pass and Tuolumne Meadows- back on towards the Sierras.

Day 153: Aloha!

Day 153, 9/8/14
1102 to 1084
18.6 miles

When it started raining at 4 AM, I got so excited.  Clouds had arrived!  Yay!  Maybe there would be an exciting sunrise.  I got so super excited I almost just started hiking.  But my sunrise watching destination, Lake Aloha, was only another mile away so I didn't want to get there too early and freeze in the rain.  So, up went the tarp and I caught a little more sleep.

Climbing up the trail a few hours later, the storm clouds swirled dramatically.  My excitement was building as I waited to see how the light would shine through.  Then, well, I don't have words to describe the beauty of the sunrise over Lake Aloha. 

Aloha!

Yes this is real.

This happened.

And then this too.

Finally it got grey.

Bob was already there watching the sunrise.  In that awesome way that connections happen on the PCT, we met and watched the amazing sunrise together until dark storm clouds rolled in and it started to rain.  Then we hiked on.

Bob is a southbounder and it was interesting hearing about his experiences outside of the more mainstream northbound hiker culture.  For example, southbounder don't tend to have trail names, and Bob had hiked the entire trail alone.  He also is a composer and just finished his thesis on music and long distance hiking.  You can listen to some of his music here.

Rain and sun at the same time.

Echo Lake store was closed for the season when we got there.  This was disappointing because we'd heard good things about the food there from northbound hikers.  Bob got a hitch into town, and I continued on another 10 miles.

Golden afternoon.

The wind was strong and cold, so instead of camping at Showers Lake, I backtracked down below the outlet and then bushwhacked down a ravine.  Somehow managing to find a sheltered hang site a short boulder scramble up to a view all the way to Lake Tahoe.

Finding another incredible hang site.

 I walked up to a rocky outcrop for an even better view.  As I ate dessert, I could see the full moon rise and a few distant lights flicker on.  They seem so far away.

All ready for dessert and the evening show.

Day 152: Desolation Wilderness

Day 152, 9/7/14
1120 (Richardson Lake) to 1102 (Heather Lake)
18 miles

Today I entered the spectacular Desolation Wilderness.  Despite the name, it is popular with dayhikers and weekenders.  But it's clear why so many enjoy visiting this place- granite mountains, ancient junipers, deep blue lakes.

Into the Desolation Wilderness.

Hikers going in opposite directions share information when they pass one another on the trail.  I found out about good swimming lakes and water sources.  Back when I was hiking with other northbound thru hikers, information passed mostly in one direction (i.e. north), since there were so few people around going south.  Bidirectional information flow has been quite a nice feature of going south and being a section hiker.

I took a detour off the PCT over to Middle Velma Lake for a midday swim at the recommendation of Judy and Nancy, the TRT hikers I'd met the day before.  Had to explode my pack on the shore to locate my swimsuit (i.e. underwear), and I took the opportunity to air out my gear.  Then I swam over to a small island.  What a life- sitting in the sun on an island all by myself in the middle of a lake in the middle of the wilderness. 

Middle Velma Lake

Then it was up and over 9400 foot Dick's Pass.  (Hehe it's called Dick's Pass.)  The northern most point above 9000 feet on the PCT.  Snow lingered way off on the sides of Dick's Peak.  Strong winds reminded me of being back in SoCal.  It was exciting to peer over the pass into the valley below and to identify the lakes ahead and try to imagine what they would be like.

Looking back at Dick's Lake.

Traveler's gentian on the banks of a high spring.

I pushed on past Suzie Lake all the way to Heather Lake.  I wanted to get set up close to Lake Aloha for the sunrise, recommended by the gals from Portland.  But I knew I couldn't make it all the way there cause the feet were protesting too much.  I was so relieved to find a sweet site sheltered from the strong winds by birches and pines.  It was cold and I was tired and it was such a relief to be in the protection of trees.

Camped near Heather Lake.

As I ate my cold dinner on the bank of the lake, the (near) full moon rose.  Such a giant orb.  The moonlight shimmering off the water.  A dozen bats swooped over the lake, so close to where I was near the shore.  Totally mesmerizing.  How fortunate I am to see all of this.

Moonrise.