Day 36. Last day on the PCT this year

Day 36. Last day on the PCT this year
Wasco Lake Junction 2011 to Santiam Pass 2001
8/14/2019
10 miles

I’m going to miss this— waking up and getting to hike everyday, all day. The difference this year is that I’m not dreading getting off the trail. I have a life I’m really looking forward to going back to. I have a job where I get paid to hike! Of course it’s hiking with kids so it’s not all day long hikes like this. But nevertheless, I do love it. I’ve been thinking a lot about my students. How much have they grown up over the summer?

 I also love our home in Moab Utah. Surrounded by all sorts of public lands. Not just my park, but the forest service and BLM lands full of obscure and lonely places. More places to explore than I ever could in a lifetime. It doesn’t quite feel like home as deeply as Oregon does, but it is a good place to call home for now. And I miss Mags.

The return hike holds more surprises. I can finally see the top of Three Fingered Jack, which was shrouded in clouds and rain a few days ago. I spot a cluster of mountain goats on a far slope. I don’t know if I should be delighted or angry when I see them. If I were back in northwestern Montana, of course I’d be thrilled since they are native and part of a healthy ecosystem there. But in southeastern Utah, there is increasing evidence that the mountain goats (that were introduced in areas that they are NOT native for the purpose of trophy hunting) are harming native plants and damaging fragile alpine areas. So I do some quick google searches to see if I should be happy or sad to see these goats here in this habitat. It turns out that these goats are native and were reintroduced recently. Nice!

I get to last viewpoint. I can see all the way to the Three Sisters! I start to cry thinking of what an incredible hike this has been. Each day has been infused with joy and I’ve excelled in doing this hike my own way. So much swimming in lakes, visiting friends and family, going to Ranger Programs and learning natural history, chasing butterflies, iNaturalizing (over 94 species!), a bonus side trip to climb South Sister, and topping it all off with this out-and-back to give me well over 60 total “bonus” miles for this trip.

I’d intended to hike 540 miles but I ended up doing over 600 miles to cover basically the same distance on the PCT. That makes me happy and really reflects my hiking style.

My sister and her husband pick me up from Santiam Pass. We head over to a favorite childhood spot-- Belknap Hot Springs. Many family vacations were spent soaking in these hot springs after our "big" hikes. This is where I first learned how to section hike-- on the McKenzie River Trail. Though back then it was 3 mile and 5 mile sections at a time. But we would piece them together to eventually complete the entire 26 mile trail. Definitely a fitting place to end this trip!

Day 35. Bonus Miles

Day 35. Bonus Miles

8/13/2019

Above Jefferson Park 2035.7 to Wasco Lake Junction 2011

24.7 miles going southbound

When I wake up in the morning, I realize I get to do my very favorite thing today which is hiking all day.  Even though I’ve just done this section going northbound, there is no shortage of new sights. 

I spot a flower I’d completely missed two days ago, the fringed grass of parnassius. A fall favorite when I lived in Georgia. This one looks slightly different. A new variety perhaps?

This view of the south side of Mount Jefferson had been completely shrouded in clouds previously. I’m so glad to see this view on a sunny day. It makes it feel like I’ve gotten a second change to purely enjoy the scenery by doing this section as an out and back.

This is my first full day going southbound. I’m now passing a steady stream of nobo hikers. It feels crowded.  Some of the other hikers talk about how many miles they are doing. The “Oregon challenge” is where hikers try to finish all of Oregon in 14 days, averaging 31 miles a day. I daydream about what kind of PCT challenge I'd institute if I were in charge of such things. Haha! Like how many lakes can you swim in. Or how many plants and butterflies you can identify and iNaturalize. 

For my last night on the PCT this year, I thought I would try camping near a lake. A mile off trail so I thought no one would be there. But it turned out to be crowded with folks who'd build campfires, even though the signs all said no campfires. Since we'd just walked through several hours of burn area, I thought it was obvious why campfires weren't allowed. But I had to get water so I decided to ask one of the campers if they minded if I walked through their campsite to get to the lake to get water. Turns out they were with their 6-year-old granddaughter-- her first camping trip. As I got water, she told me about all the fun she was having and about the dragonflies and smores. And then they asked me if I was hiking the PCT and invited me to camp with them (which was tempting but I declined). Of course I had to go from being annoyed by their campfires to feeling happy that this little girl was having such an amazing experience!

I ended up finding a few trees that had escaped the fire and set in for a restful last night away from the smoke and the crowds.

Day 34. Connecting my steps

Day 34. Connecting my steps

8/12/2019

Milk Creek (2028) to Upper Lake (2043.7) then back to above Jefferson Park 2035.7

15.7 PCT miles plus 8.2 bonus 

Many sobo hikers had given advice about the crossing of Russel Creek. That it wasn’t *that* bad. That you could cross at the log. That the water was only knee high so it was safer to cross at the trail and not scramble to the log. I’d build the whole thing up in my mind, and was pretty nervous by the time I got there. But when I arrived I heard a cheerful “Hi Joan!” from across the way. It was K. and N. who I hadn’t seen since spending a zero with them in Ashland! 

K. walked back to the crossing and provided reassurance as I crossed the log. I didn’t even get wet feet! I love how just when I needed a little boost of confidence, my friends just happened to be there!

Then we hiked together for a bit, and leapfrogged for the day, and it was neat to hear their stories from the past few weeks.  In the Three Sisters Wilderness, they'd seen and photographed a rare Sierra Nevada fox and gotten to report it to wildlife biologists who were super-excited about their find. What great folks and fun stories!

Around Mount Jefferson

The scenery was absolutely gorgeous all through Jefferson Park and around Mount Jefferson! The sun was out and through it was a hard climb and quite exhausting, my spirits remained high. How lucky to have clear skies!

I barely recognized Upper Lake, my turnaround spot from my 2016 long hike. It looked so different from when I was there in October three years ago— when I woke up to snow and decided it wouldn’t be smart to keep climbing over the pass below Mount Jefferson. Now, having done that pass this morning, I can see just how smart that was and I’m glad I turned around.

No snow or fall colors like there was when I was here last

Trail magic is happening at a road crossing so I got to stop and hang out with K. and N. and celebrate finishing my long section hike. 

K. and N.

As of now I have completed 2447 miles of the PCT, and have about 218 miles remaining in Washington (from the OR/WA border to Packwood and from Rainy Pass to Canada.)

Still lingering snow even in August

Climbing back over the pass was just as gorgeous as it had been coming down. I decided to camp early and enjoy the scenery. I'd scoped out a campsite when I'd come through here earlier this morning so I knew exactly where I wanted to be for sunset.

Watching sunset near Mount Jefferson

The wind is light so far and I just want to look at these mountain for a few hours- I can see a huge blue glacier and the light changing and I never want this feeling of wonder to end.

Day 15. Something new.. lava!

Day 15. Something new.. lava!

7/24/ 2019

1744.1 to near Fish Lake 1767.5

23.4 miles

I wake up grateful for a clear sky (still no smoke or wildfires) and for another day of doing my favorite thing all day (hiking!). I love the rhythm of walking, getting water, drinking, eating, resting.. and repeating. 

There are delicate white monkshood flowers (as well as the usual blue variety) around the spring I stop at in the morning. I’ve only ever seen blue monkshood and it makes me wonder who the pollinators are and if they are different for the various flower color morphs. So I sit and take a break. Watching. Hoping to make some pollinator observations. And appreciate that I can just sit and look. What a life this is!

Late in the afternoon, I take the turnoff for the South Brown Mountain Shelter. The directions for the water pump say it needs two people (or three) — one to work the pump and another to catch the water. I try a few times to work the pump, but I don’t have the strength. Or maybe I could muster the strength, but I worry about straining that hard since I got the hernia last year. It just doesn’t seem worth the risk.  So I lay down and watch the sky and listen to the hum of the flies and mosquitoes for an hour until another hiker arrives. Luckily, it is a strong guy and we get our bottles filled in no time!

Further down the trail, a dayhiker strikes up a conversation and asks what I think about all day. Does the mind ever quiet? I have to think for a while. I realize that the mind does get still sometimes. Especially after many miles. Mostly I think about my surroundings- the plants, the smell of the air, the butterflies, the rocks, the views. Other time, I think about how much I love hiking and the PCT. My heart feels so full of joy when I'm out here. Sometimes, I wonder I will ever have another love in my life as deep as this love for the trail.

In the evening, I get to something new-- lava rocks! The trail through the lava is incredibly smooth. It makes me wonder who build this marvelous trail. 

I find some trees down a slope past the lava. Then mosquitoes find me. Its the first night I hurry to retreat into my hammock and zipper the bugnet secure. I fall asleep to the sound of their buzzing.

Day 14. Hyatt Reservoir

Day 14. Hyatt Reservoir

7/23/2019

From Ashland (1717.7) to Hyatt Reservoir (1744.1)

26.5 miles

We get a ride from Ashland back to the PCT with a trail angel who is knowledgable about the local natural history. I ask her about tree diversity here and she says one cool thing is that have both ponderosa and Jeffrey pine. They can be told apart by whether the cones have spines- prickly ponderosa, gentle Jeffrey pine. 

My body has so much energy after a breakfast of cheesy microwave eggs and waffles and a day and a half of rest. I love feeling the rhythm of walking and simply hiking for hiking’s sake.

Hydaspe Fritillary (Speyeria hydaspe)

I didn't see any other PCT hikers except B. all day. We had planned to camp together but I messed up and thought there was water at the Hyatt campground and there wasn’t, so I had to go back and then I couldn’t find him. Oh well.

I find some well-spaced trees for my hammock with a partial view of the sunset over the reservoir. I sure do love seeing the sunset and sunrise every single day out here.

Day 12 and 13. Into Ashland

Day 12 and 13. Into Ashland

1703.8 to Ashland (1717.7)

14 miles

7/21 and 7/22 (Zero)

During the night I wake up to a car screeching down the road. My watch shows it is after midnight. Who drives at this time? Who is even awake at such an hour? I fall back asleep immediately and wake feeling totally refreshed. I really appreciate how the body can be so transformed each night. Aches and soreness all gone.

I start with a climb through meadows of wildflowers and feel so strong! It is good to be back to my old, solid stride. The pure joy of hiking like everything is going right! It has been a while since I have felt this strong- it feels awesome.

There are more locals out hiking the closer I get to the road. I strike up a conversation with a woman holding a pack of blueberries. She ends up telling me stories of her work helping refuges, stories I can tell she needs to talk through, so I stay and really listen. For almost an hour! (Thankfully, she shares her blueberries with me since my stomach starts growling in anticipation of town food.)  Real trail magic are these unexpected connections, the sweetness of passion for one’s work, and sharing of experiences.

White bog-orchid (Platanthera dilatata)

I’d been anticipating a relaxing stay at Callahans, but I hear through the trail grapevine that there is a wedding there. Way too crowded for me. But just as I am trying to figure out what to do, I see B. waiting outside, almost as if he is expecting me. He asks if I want to split a room in Ashland! Perfect, of course! I love how things just work out.

Ashland is awesome. Everything is in walking distance- laundry, stores, and we even get pizza delivered. 

I hadn’t planned to take a zero in Ashland. But I changed my mind as I was sitting down and my feet started throbbing. They were definitely telling me I need more rest. It turns out to be a great zero day. Get to hang out with Jazzy, B., K., and N. Rest isn’t easy but it sure will help me in the long run.

Phantom orchid

A great thing about extra time in town is I get to read all about the butterflies, plants, and trees I’ve identified with the iNaturalist app. One of my favorites is the phantom orchid (Cephalanthera austiniae). It is completely white, without an photosynthetic leaves, and gets all its energy through associations with a single family of mycorrhizal fungus which in turn get the energy from trees. So neat!

Day 10. Climb out of Seiad Valley

Day 10. Climb out of Seiad Valley

Seiad Valley (1656) to Alex Hole Spring (1683.3)

7/19/19

27 miles

The roadwalk is shady and cool in the early morning. I love the sound of the water echoing in a canyon. And the waterfall is the perfect size to stand under to cool off.

At this lower elevation, there are a whole bunch of new butterflies including wood nymphs which have this elegant, darting flight. One stays still for a split second and I snap a photo. Later, my friend identifies it as a Great Basin Wood Nymph, the first one I've ever found.

I sort of feel bad about not taking the official PCT. But then I remind myself to think about my own goals. This hike is just for me, right? Making lists always seem to help when I start to doubt myself.

Joan’s 2019 PCT Goals:

    1. Be joyful. 

    2. Chase butterflies. 

    3. Enjoy swimming. 

It makes me happy to realize that my goals are in alignment with my choice to follow the waterfall route.  It is not important to me to walk every official mile of PCT, though I do try for continuous steps along my route. But I'm OK to walk a different path if it will get me more swimming and more butterflies!

The day heats up as I climb. It's hot through the burn. I hide in the shade of my umbrella.

There is a sweet view from Alex Hole Spring but also fierce wind swirling about. I end up camping tucked in some sheltered trees. Feeling safe and content.

Day 8. Descent to Grinder Creek

Day 8. Descent to Grinder Creek

7/17/19

Shadow Lake (1620.8) to Grinder Creek (1646.8)

26 miles

More gorgeous views through the Marble Mountains with only a few patches of snow.

The long descent is brushy but thankful a trail crew has freshly cleared a huge number downed trees. I feel so fortunate to have reached this section when I do.

Two guys that leapfrog with me the whole day see two bears in the thick, berry-filled brush. But they must have scared them off since I don't see the bears. Only berries.

The last bit of trail has poison oak patches which I am careful to avoid. Plus this is where I am glad I’ve got my tall gaiters for added protection.

The Grinder Creek canyon has suffered a recent burn. It takes me a few miles after I want to stop to find live trees for my hammock. The tent campers have to go even further to find a flat spot. But I finally do find a lovely grove of trees near the creek. There is even a little sandy beach where I relax and soak my weary feet. 

I’m just nine miles from town so hopefully I can get to the cafe in Seiad Valley before it closes!

Day 7. Marble Mountain Wilderness

Day 7. Marble Mountain Wilderness
Etna (1599.7) to Shadow Lake (1620.8)
21.1 miles

My legs have extra energy after the zero in Etna. Or maybe it's because now I'm carrying a reasonable amount of food so my pack is light.

Waiting for a ride back to the PCT.

There is incredibly dramatic scenery as I enter the Marble Mountain Wilderness. All day I gawk and stare in amazement at the incredible rocks. And discover why they call these mountains "marble."

This is my friend Jan's home turf and she told me not to miss Shadow Lake. It's a steep climb down to the lake so I'm not surprised there are no PCT hikers down there when I arrive. I plan my day so I arrive with plenty of time to swim and camp there.

Unfortunately, the evening wind picks up. It's in the middle of a burn area and the only suitable trees for my hammock are a bit of a brushy scramble. Nighttime creatures wander about as I am trying to fall asleep. Eventually, my yelling at them to go away works and it is finally peaceful..

Too tired to wait for sunset. This is when I go to bed.

Day 5 and 6. To Etna

Day 5 and 6

7/14 and 7/15

1587 (Bingham Lake) to Etna Summit (1599.7)

12.7 miles (plus a zero the next day)

It is steep scramble back to the PCT from my camp at Bingham Lake. Another hiker looks up as I crash through the brush high above him. But then when I finally get to the PCT, it is a long stretch through the burn, so I am pleased with my decision to stop when I did.

As I am getting close to the road to hitch into Etna, I meet a woman and her teenage boys. She hardly believes I’ve been out five days. “You’re too clean!”  I tell her all about feeling refreshed because I’ve been swimming in all the lakes. 

We get to talking and it turns out that she has done some long distance bike trips. She leans in to give me wise advice. “Don’t get focused on the end-point or the goal,” she says. I tell her how I always make sure to take my time by stopping to swim in lakes. “Well, just be sure to only swim in just lakes you want! Don’t get caught up in thinking you have to swim in all the lakes.” Which is advice I love! Because even with my side trips, I know I can get pretty driven. 

Cliff maids (Lewisia cotyledon)

It’s hot when I get to the road crossing (again, thankfully I have my umbrella). Another hiker is there already so we wait for a hitch together. The first truck going our way stops and gives us a ride.  Not a bad hitch at all!

In Etna, I head to the the R & R Bunkhouse, a work-for-stay place that I’ve heard is awesome from a southbounder. I feel fortunate to get a bed here! Cate tells stories of the town history. There is a garden and everything is in walking distance. Perfect place for a zero!

Fresh veggies from the garden = heavenly

Day 4. Russian Wilderness

Day 4. Russian Wilderness
1567.6 (near Boulder Lake Junction) to 1587 (Bingham Lake)
19.4 miles

In the lovely soft light of early morning, I spot the first foxtail pines on the high elevation slopes. Unmistakable, especially having just spent two weeks amongst the very-closely-related Great Basin bristlecone pines in Nevada. Would I have missed them if I hadn’t heard the podcast mentioning foxtail pines last night? In any case, I delight in finding them. 

Foxtail pines

At mid-day, I meet forest service rangers on horseback. They confirm that the trees are indeed foxtails. It's so fun to share my excitement about the trees and gain some additional information about them.

By late afternoon, my good fortune continues. Just as I entered the Russian Wilderness, I meet three locals and ask them about foxtail pines. Without skipping a beat, they mention Michael Kauffmann and the Miracle Mile!  I find out they are hiking to a bunch of lakes in the area and they recommend a side trip to Bingham Lake.  I’d been wondering about it but there was no trail shown going to it on my Gaia GPS and no information about it on Guthooks. Turns out all this is for good reason- it is quite a scramble up to get there! But they say just go slow up through the talus and that I’ll be fine.

I make it to Bingham Lake!

What a lake! High above is Russian Peak and all around the lake are huge boulders perfect for lounging about. The moon rises. The light fades and changes. Fish splash about. I am mesmerized by the swimming newts (which are later identified for me on iNaturalist as Taricha granulosa).  A most enchanting evening!

Day 3. Trinity Alps Wilderness

Day 3. Trinity Alps Wilderness
7/12/2019
1545.9 (Chilcoot Creek) to 1567.6 (near Boulder Lake Junction)
21.7 miles

Today was hot and there were no lakes for swimming. The climb up from the road crossing took me forever. Thank goodness for my sun umbrella to give some relief.

My pack feels heavy since I misjudged how much food I'd need this stretch. The strain of having a heavy pack migrates around my body, making all my old injuries creak and groan. I feel creaking in the stress fracture on my foot from 2014 and also sensations at the patch of my hernia in my groin (from last year). Nothing alarmingly painful. More like they are just saying "hey don't forget." Reminders to be grateful for my body and not take it for granted. My biggest fear going into this hike is getting another overuse injury.

The beauty of nature provides plenty of pleasant delightful distractions. More pitcher plants! And a spotted fritillary!

It still feels quiet out here. I see four or five hikers going southbound, but no hikers going my way. Are the other NOBOs just all hiking in lockstep, so that we don’t see each other?

Right at the boundary to the Trinity Alps Wilderness, a trail maintenance crew is working on removing blowdowns. Thank you PCTA, the Forest Service, and all the volunteers for making this trail so awesome!

Finally I made it to near the Boulder Lake junction. Oh I wish I had energy to hike down the side trail to the lake far below. But it looks to be at least a mile and a 600 foot drop in elevation. Which is really not much but I’m too worn out.

Instead, I peer out of my hammock at the snowy peaks above and listen to a botany podcast (In Defense of Plants). It just happens to be an episode about conifer trees. They interview ecologist Michael Kauffmann about the high conifer diversity around the Russian Wilderness. Apparently there is a mile along a ridge (called the “Miracle Mile”) that is a true biodiversity hotspot for conifers. And this whole area of the Klamaths has more conifers (38 species) than anywhere in the world. He also describes where the rare foxtail pines grow (and which are closely related to the Great Basin and Rocky Mountain bristlecone pines). Then I realize that I’ll be going near that area tomorrow! WOW!

Day 2. Butterflies galore

Day 2. Pacific Crest Trail Section Hike (Northern California through Oregon)

7/11/2019

Mile 1523.5 (Helen Lake) to 1545.9 (Chilcoot Creek)

22.4 miles

Since I’ve started this section hike, I spend a lot of time doubting myself and starting to think that it’s lame that I’m hiking the PCT. I have the skills to hike a more technical trail. And I love creating my own routes in Utah and not seeing anyone on them. The PCT is popular and doesn’t seem remote in comparison to many places I’ve been the last few years. Like other things that become really popular, it now seems “uncool” to hike the PCT. 

But as I hike, I come to the realization that I really like the PCT. No, I LOVE the PCT. Exactly because of the sweet, gentle grade. It allows me the energy to chase butterflies and take side trails to swim in lakes. I love the easy navigation so I can focus on looking and plants and views and scenery. I realize that there is a reason that the PCT is so popular— it is accessible and kind and absolutely lovely. And it is exactly where I want to be!

Today is a joyful day. The trail stays high up on ridges and the slopes are covered with wildflowers all the colors of the rainbow. I love being able to gaze at the scenery all day since navigation is so easy. Plus, no blowdowns. It feels like I'm cheating.

Early morning views

It's so nice not having to look at my feet all the time. Instead, I can look at everything around me. Butterflies dart all about. Incredible what diversity is out here! A few even stay still long enough for a photo. I can hardly wait to get to town to upload the observations into iNaturalist (an app to identify and document plants and insects). One is a parnassius butterfly that I’ve read about but never seen in real life. Parnassius butterflies are cool because they live in alpine habitats and have thick black bodies to stay warm. I’m so excited to upload my observation so that other people can identify it and tell me exactly what species it is. 

Later this is identified as a pheobus apollo (Parnassius phoebus) which is also found in the Alps.

So many dotted blues! Yet another species we don't have in Utah.

Two dramatic lakes with inviting waters provide swimming opportunities. It is so refreshing to feel the cool water.

The PCT continues to feel uncrowded, even though I know that there are tons of other hikers out there somewhere. But I only see three hikers going SOBO- two section hikers stop to chat. I'd been worried about the snow, but they say most of it has melted and there are no sketchy spots.

Just enough snow to look pretty. But nothing hard.

Finally, I am laying in my hammock, watching mayflies doing their mating dance above me. At first I thought they were mosquitoes, but then I looked closer and saw their long causal filaments. Incredible!