Dayhike with the Trail Dames, and more PCT reflections

Waiting for everyone to arrive at the trailhead the morning of our Trail Dames dayhike, I go through my pre-trip checklists yet again.  The skies are brilliant blue but the temperature is around 18 degrees and rhododendron leaves are curled up tight against the cold.  It is winter, and I know it pays to be extra careful.

Icicles along Martin Creek.

I think about the list of who is on this trip, the strengths of the other hike leaders, and how many first time hikers we are taking out.  The hike is one I’ve done more than any other- the Bartram Trail north to Martin Creek Falls in Georgia- but still, I review all the road crossing and side trails that could be used in case of an emergency.  I have extra gear in my pack- space blanket, handwarmers, extra gloves, first aid kit, and even a stove (yes, even though I go stoveless while backpacking, I do have one for winter dayhikes).  We’ve provided pre-trip advice about winter hiking but I think about what to go over before the hike.  Satisfied with the preparations, I breathe in the crisp air and exhale slowly.

There is another list that automatically flashes through my mind when it is this cold- a list of memorable trips where people have gotten sick, hypothermic, or been exhausted.  Trips that I’ve analyzed, and from which I’ve learned valuable lessons.  I used to be horrified when things would go wrong on the trail, but I try to remember that only when I made mistakes or experience problems and learn from them, can I grow.

***
I greet one of the first-time hikers and she shares her dreams of hiking the AT.  As we wait for the others to arrive, I tell how I got my start with Trail Dames, on a sunny crisp day like today, and how I’d gone on to hike part of the PCT this year.

First time hiker using poles.

Fortunately, despite the cold, there are no problems on this hike.  In fact, everyone has a wonderful time, and we were delighted by the incredible icicle formations along the streams and waterfalls.  We shed layers and put them on again, and my coleader keeps a great pace so that breaks weren’t too long that we’d get cold.

Taking a moment to listen to the quietness.

At lunch, I even got teased about how I had to take off my gloves to prepare my food when I told everyone to have meals that were already assembled and easy to eat with gloves on.  My pre-trip advice had been heard, even though I was an example of what not to do.

Lunch break under the hemlocks.

One of the first-time hikers tries out hiking poles and is a convert by the end of the trip.  After lunch, everyone shared what they like and dislike about their hiking poles, and offered her advice on where to buy poles.  Moments like this of spontaneous sharing and learning are true magic.

What a great group of Trail Dames! Photo by Diana.

***

When I got home after the dayhike, I saw that SlowBro (a friend that I hiked with on the Pacific Crest Trail last summer) had left a comment on my blog that brought tears to my eyes.  He wrote:

 "...it was so great to be able to hike with you, MeToo, and Blue Yonder out of Kennedy Meadows. And kudos for hiking back to KM with MeToo and me. No one could have faulted you for continuing North, but I think it speaks volumes about the kind of person you are and it helped the "professional me" more than you know. Should "our patient's" condition have worsened, the additional person to go for help could have made all the difference."

OMG what a compliment, and also what a coincidence- he referenced one of those memorable times when someone got sick that I'd just been thinking about that very morning when I’d been preparing for our Trail Dames hike.  It was when MeToo fainted and collapsed in the snow as on our second day out of Kennedy Meadows when we were heading into the High Sierra.  That incident was why I'd packed my stove that morning!

Back in May 2014, SlowBro (left) and Blue Yonder (right) care for MeToo on the PCT.

I will never forget how we covered MeToo in a space blanket and how SlowBro (a doctor) fixed him a hot drink as he assessed his condition.  How we turned around and hiked back to Kennedy Meadows together.  It was the second time I’d turned around with a friend that was sick, the first time being with Pathfinder when we were near Big Bear City.  At the time, I didn’t know anyone else on the PCT who’d turned around to stay with someone who was sick, and I’d done it TWICE.  

Clearly there was a lesson there I needed to learn.  What I learned was that I really take the Trail Dames motto to "never leave anyone behind” to heart.  Even if everyone around me has tons of experience, I still feel the need to do everything I can to help.  It was also a lesson in just how important it is to me to be part of a group of people in the backcountry who I can trust.  Teamwork, counting on one another, being there for one another- those are all things I value being part of and strive to build.

Even though I've been off the PCT for a few months, these experiences from the PCT continue to  inform how I do things like prepare for dayhikes with Trail Dames and they continue to teach me about who I am.

PCT training: Bartram in the rain

Cold and wet but still smiling at Rabun Bald.

The first thing on my to-do list to prepare of the PCT is to get in the best shape of my life.  Building strength and endurance slowly prevents injury.  Plus, exercise relaxes me so I don’t get overwhelmed by all the things I want to do to make the leap from weekend-backpacker to long-distance backpacker.  

Starting with my physical preparation reminds me how far I’ve come these last four years since I started backpacking.  Which also helps me feel more confident in my abilities.  I’ve doubled my previous maximum daily mileage of only 14 miles, and am comfortable with over 20 mile days with a full pack.  This progress was in part due to training, but much of it was due to nutrition and technique.  After I was diagnosed with hypoglycemia, I completely changed my diet, and after much work (i.e. using a glucometer to measure my blood sugars while backpacking), I credit much of my ability to hike longer distances to a diet that keeps me properly fueled.  Likewise, I have worked hard on my form after I had an over-use injury to my knee, ended up going to a physical therapist who taught me about body mechanics and the importance of alignment for avoiding injury.  These experiences showed me that learning to hike smarter is just as important as putting in the physical work.  I'll continue to look for ways to improve my technique.

This weekend’s solo training backpacking trip
I went to Warwoman Dell for a solo backpacking overnight on the Bartram Trail out and back to Rabun Bald, 2nd highest peak in Georgia.  28 miles round trip, averaging a steady 2.8 miles per hour even including all my stopping to look at tree foam, make adjustments to my umbrella, and learning how to use my iPhone as a GPS.  The weather cooperated with non-stop rain and cold, perfect for testing my not-dying-of-hypothermia skills.  To make it more challenging, I got a late start to get in some morning trapeze practice, and also loaded up my pack with 10 more pounds of extra food and water, and could tell I’ve been getting soft with my lightweight pack.  Guess that’s the end of my lightweight pack days- from now on, I’m going to keep adding that extra 10 lbs to my base weight so carrying 5-7 days of food doesn’t come as a shock!  Hopefully this, in addition to my morning daily runs and trapeze/silks "cross-training", will help me get into shape for the PCT.  

Training plan for the next 5 months
In addition to the weekly backpacking trips, I'm also arranging some trips to work on particular skills (i.e. carrying a bear canister for a week on the BMT, snow skills course in Colorado, backpacking in arid conditions in Arizona).  My other goal is not getting injured, so I’m building in rest and being careful to listening to my body.  I started to keep a training log spreadsheet to keep me motivated- especially on these cold dark rainy mornings when it’s not quite as tempting to get out of bed.

Camped in the coldest, windiest spot I could find.  And still cozy warm.

Holcomb Creek Trail and Rabun Bald Trail

Roadwalks.  I used to avoid them at all costs.  But lately, I've been stringing together shorter trails with road walks to give me some longer contiguous routes.  This has allowed me to explore some new trails that are only accessible by FS roads (i.e. roads I don't like driving on in my tiny car).  I've found that walking FS roads can be surprisingly pleasant, especially on Sunday mornings when there are no cars out.  And the best thing is that I can make longer backpacking routes if I use FS roads so I get to see some new terrain.

This weekend, I made a partial loop with the Bartram Trail, Rabun Bald Trail, Holcomb Creek Trail, and FS roads.  There were two waterfalls on Holcomb Creek Trail, and fabulous the fall color on Rabun Bald, Georgia's second highest peak.  

Loads of fall flowers were blooming, like this gentian.

I parked at Osage Mountain Overlook just over the NC border, and ascended Rabun Bald on the Bartram Trail.  Before descending Rabun Bald via the Rabun Bald Trail, I took a detour down the Batram Trail to check out a side trial I'd been curious about.  About a mile south of the summit, I reached signed Flint Gap, and the marked side path to Flint Knob (0.7 miles).  The trail was easy to follow, though blazes were sporadic.  Unfortunately, there were no views from Flint Knob, but at least it there was a nice rocky summit to mark the top.   It looks like the trail continues on to a residential community, so I didn't bother going any further, and instead retraced my steps back up Rabun.

After having dinner on Rabun Bald and chatting with some dayhikers, a family was setting up camp at the summit, so I decided to head down the Rabun Bald Trail to find a quieter campsite for the night.  Normally, I wouldn't set up on a ridge, but the views of the fall color were just too pretty.  Plus, I knew I'd be super warm cause I was testing out my brand new, hot off the sewing machine DIY winter karo top quilt (more on this in future posts).

Camping on the leeward side of the ridge

Fabulous sunset view.

The next morning, I continued the steep descent down Rabun Bald Trail, and took a left on the FS road.  After about 20 minutes, I hopped on the Holcomb Creek Trail.  It was sad that the large hemlocks described in the guidebook were all dead, but there were several large tulip poplars and the trail was quite nice.  Holcomb Creek Falls was impressive, and lovely Ammons Creek Falls was framed with brilliant red sourwood which made for quite a sight.

Holcomb Creek Falls.

I'm so glad I got over my aversion to road walks so I could check out some trails I hadn't done before- both Rabun Bald Trail and Holcomb Creek Trail were definite winners!

Holcomb Creek Trail.

Resources:

Trails Illustrated Map #778

Tim Homan's The Hiking Trails of North Georgia. 

Bartram Trail- Osage to Whiterock Mountain

A short 24-hours on the Bartram Trail.  Been getting ready for another aerial silks performance, so had practice in the morning and also needed to work on my costume.  But I also really needed to get out and stretch my legs.

I opted for the high-elevation section of the Bartram Trail in NC from Osage Mountain Overlook to Whiterock Mountain (4480 feet).   The flowers were gorgeous and blueberries were ripe, just like last year.

Phlox and white bergamot.

By the time I got to the trailhead, thunderstorms and heavy rain were going strong.  When I stopped for a snack, I readjust my pack.  I was trying out a pack that I'd borrowed from my friend JJ (THANKS JJ!).   After I redistribute the weight in the pack, I was so stoked because I found the sweet spot where it sits just right and feels like a natural extension of my body. 

After that, I flew up the trail, making it past Jones Knob all the way to Whiterock Mountain, much further than I did back in January.  Oh the benefits of summer-weight gear and longer daylengths.

My stealth site near Whiterock Mountain was well away from the fragile mountaintop plant community.

 After setting up camp, it finally quit raining, so I hiked up Whiterock Mountain for dinner and the sunset.

Going barefoot on the rocks to air out my water-logged feet.

The next day, I took a detour on the side trail to Jones Knob.  It was still fogged in, but the rocky outcrops were lush with mosses and flowers so I spent some time enjoying the small things.  Last weekend, my friend Renee, who took a vacation from thru hiking the AT to go up to the Smokies, used the term "hiker entertainment" to describes the simple things that hikers do for fun.  Like getting mesmerized by water flowing over rocks in a stream, or watching insects buzzing around.  At home I often get caught up trying to get so many things done, that even fun activities seem rushed and distracted.  For example, listening to the podcasts while painting more sparkles on the  costume for our show.  Not fully paying attention to either thing.  That's why hiker entertainment is so awesome- becoming fully absorbed in the smallest things that would otherwise go unnoticed.

On Jones Knob.

Back at my car, I weighed my pack- getting the "base weight" (i.e. without food and water, but with everything else).  I don't write about packweight much anymore, but I still measure it.  I suspected my base weight would be light because JJ's pack that I was borrowing was much lighter than my old one.  But I was still shocked when I read the scale.

10.8 lbs.

The cutoff for "ultralight" is 10 lbs, so clearly I haven't yet achieved that status.  To go any lighter, I might have to take some extreme measures.  At home as I unpacked, I contemplated changes I might make to my gear selections.  Like empty out the all trash I'd picked up along the trail from the pockets.  Or dry out my poncho, tarp, and soaking wet socks-- probably a half a pound of water right there.  My toasty warm, bombproof 12 oz PVC rainpants?  An obvious candidate, unless you know how often I get cold (and even hypothermic) in continuous, soaking rain if I am really pushing myself physically.  (side note-- normal people would find PVC oppressively hot and clammy, but I am not most people.)  Plus, then I wouldn't have a luxury item (since I do consider being toasty warm a luxury), and having a luxury item is very important for backpacking.

Not sure what changes I'll make next, or if I'll ever get below the magic 10 lb cutoff, but I sure had an enjoyable trip.

First night with my DIY Top Quilt

Wasn't feeling well, so did a quick overnight on the Bartram Trail north from Warwoman Dell up past Martin Creek Falls.  I know it probably sounds crazy to go backpacking while sick, but I'd rather laze around in my hammock in the sweet-smelling woods than be cooped up at home.

I was eager to get out because it was finally warm enough, with the forecasted low in the 50's, to try out the DIY Karo Top Quilt that I made back in February.  I'd tested it out in my backyard, but this was its first trip out on the trail. 

Third weekend in a row with rain.  Thankfully, dark clouds warned of the approaching storm.  I managed to get my tarp pitched, hammock hung, and bear bag rope thrown in record time, all before the first drops began to fall.  It rained half then night and then the wind picked up and temps dropped, providing a good first test for my quilt.

Stealth site halfway up the hillside and sheltered from the wind.  Sun came out in the morning so I could take a photo.

When I started to settle in for the night, the first thing I really liked about my quilt was how easy it was to get comfortable in it.  I could just tuck it around me.  In contrast to a sleeping bag, which either has too much material if I spread it out, or require lots of squirming to get ziped up into.

The second thing I learned about my quilt is that it proved to be wide enough, at least so far.  Even though I made it only 40 inches wide at the top.  Guess it really is true that I didn't need more because the hammock and underquilt wrap around me.

The only thing I think I need to work on is the footbox, since I haven't decided how to make that yet.  I will either add more snaps to make the footbox extend up to my knees, or sew it together.  But overall, I really loved by quilt and was surprised that it kept me so toasty.

So happy after my first night in my DIY top quilt.

Of course I have to add photos of some flowers from the trip.  Also saw tons of trillium, but I figure you are probably tired of seeing so many of those.  Here are the new flowers that are out.

Wild geranium

Sweet shrub, with wild azalea in the background.

Solomon's seal, still wet with rain.

When I got back to the trailhead, I also checked out the Warwoman Dell Nature trail, where many more flowers were blooming including solomon's plume, dwarf iris, foamflower, jack-in-the-pulpit, and indian cucumber root.

Third week in a row my car has been by herself at the trailhead-- I think she's getting pretty lonely.

Interpretive Hiking Map of the NC Bartram Trail

The Interpretive Hiking Map of the NC Bartram Trail has been an excellent resource over the past year on numerous section hikes of the NC Bartram Trail.  It's got a beautiful design, and I highly encourage anyone interested in the Bartram Trail to get this map.

It contains essentials for the backpacker (i.e. elevation profile, campsites, water sources) and also has information to inspire and inform those interested in natural history.

Several features make this map really great:
-Easy to read and use and shows the right amount of detail.   Campsites, water sources, side trail, and roads are all clearly marked and have been accurate.

-It's easy to switch back and forth between the elevation profile and the topo map because the mileages (in both directions) are shown directly on the map. 

The map indicates campsites, water sources, trailheads, and mileages as well as interpretive information.

Elevation profiles with mileages both from N to S (bottom) and S to N (top).

-Written driving directions to all the trailheads are given, which facilitates section hiking.

-Natural history information is tagged on the map, and side bars have blurbs about the flora and fauna and excepts from Bartram's Travels.  This provides a deeper appreciation for the history and wonderful areas this trail passes though. 

Numbered tags let you find and read about the plants that Bartram discovered on his travels.

Historical excepts allow " the hiker moving forward in space to simultaneously journey back in time"

My only criticism is that the paper is not waterproof or durable.  I keep it in a plastic ziplock, but mine is already torn along the folds and has a few holes.  My friend JJ suggested scanning it, printing it, and waterproofing the paper.  But I figure for $12 I can easily replace it when it gets much worse. 

Another caveat is that the some of the campsites indicated on the maps are not always suitable for hammock hangers, so a few times I had to hike additional miles to find trees.  This probably would have been less of an issue during winter, and of course isn't really a problem with the map, just something to be aware of for fellow hangers.

Overall: this is a lovely map and only wish more trails had maps this informative and well-designed.

Disclosure: I purchased this map with my own funds.  The opinions in this review are my own.

Bartram Trail- Osage to Rabun again

There is a yet another type of rain-- it is the windy, torrential, incessant rain.  Weather for flirting with hypothermia.  Weather for making you question why you stay out there. 

From Osage Mountain Overlook, I did an out and back along the Bartram Trail up to Rabun Bald.  Abundant creeks were swollen with water, and rugged rock outcrops offered sheltered refuges for snack breaks.  The climb up Rabun had the highest concentration of catsby's trillium I've seen.  Unfortunately, the rain didn't let up enough for me to pull out my camera, even to snap shots of all the tree foam.

Fog enveloped the summit of Rabun Bald, but I climbed the tower anyway just to feel the full force of the howling wind.   Horizontal rain flew under my rainhat and ripped the snaps of my poncho open before I retreated to lower ground.

I stayed warm and avoided hypothermia by wearing super-warm, non-breathable rainpants and a FroggToggs poncho, and by paying more attention to thermoregulation and employing Advanced Rain Hiker Techniques:

-Adjusted hiking speed and layers to regulate my temperature.  Added a raincoat under the poncho when I got cold.  Ventilated the poncho by hiking with my hands on my hips when I got warm. 

-Skipped using poles.  My hands stayed in my pockets and under my poncho tucked against the warmth of my torso as much as possible so they never got cold.

-I carefully monitored myself for the "umbles" and signs of disorientation.  Because hypothermia is difficult to self-diagnose, I came up with questions to ask myself at frequent intervals:
    -Are you toasty-cosy warm, or just sort-of warm? 
    -How many minutes has it been since your last snack and bathroom stop?
    -Name three things that you love about hiking in the rain? 

When I got cranky or couldn't think of answers, I stopped for a quick snack or to add layers.  I was really pleased I managed to stay pretty comfortable most of the time.

My feet were happy when I changed into dry socks on the ride home.

Beginner Backpacking Trip to Warwoman Dell

Seven women, including three hike leaders, met at Warwoman Dell near Clayton, GA for another beginning backpacking trip with the Trail Dames.  After introductions and adjusting packs, we set out on the Bartram Trail for a 2 mile hike to Martin Creek Falls. 

 Spring is one of my favorite times of year for beginner backpacking trips.  The weather is more comfortable for hiking.  Plus, I love to share the splendor of spring flowers, and it's rewarding when women become connected and engaged with the natural world.

No matter how many times I visit this area, each time, I see something new.  There were at least three blooming trees-- silverbell and dogwoods in the slopes, and serviceberry on the top of Pinnacle Knob.  Around Becky Branch Falls, jack-in-the-pulpet, bellwort, sweetshrub, pink wild azalea, vasey's trillium, solomon's seal, and foamflower were all stunning.

foamflower

When we got to camp, we spent extra time talking about campsite selection.  Several of the women were interested in hammocking, and so we did a tour of different setups.  Even though it's mid-April, temperatures dipped into the 40's overnight, so we talked about various techniques to stay warm.

Tree straps for the hammocks.

We show off our hammock setups.

After getting settled, one of the women and I did an extra afternoon hike up to Pinnacle Knob while the others took naps or relaxed in camp.  She was a big fan of William Bartram, the eighteenth century naturalist and explorer for whom the trail is named.  She shared some wild adventure stories she'd read about him, and I will definitely have to pick up a copy of his Travels for myself.

Fraser magnolia leafing out.

Of the many plants described by Bartram during his extensive travels in the southeast is fraser magnolia.  His journals show that he first saw this plant in 1775 right here near Martin Creek Falls.  We saw this tree just leafing out, the bright green leaves were especially striking.   How cool!

Sillyness.

Once again, this was another great trip with the Trail Dames and we all had fun and learned a lot!

Bartram Trail: Warwoman Dell to the Chattooga River

A solo, early spring overnight on the Bartram Trail along most of Section 2 in Georgia.  From Warwoman Dell (1920 feet), it was a short climb over Rainy Mountain (2560 feet) and pleasant ridgewalking on old roads, before dropping to the Chattooga River Trail at Sandy Ford.  The quiet simplicity of unremarkable trail with no distractions (i.e. no flowers, dramatic views, water features, or people) provided a soothing counterpoint to a hectic week.

Mossy-covered rocks sparkling with mica.

Winter views of pine-covered hills.

Springy trail of soft pine, gently curving around knobs.

At Sandy Ford Road, one of the numerous granite-carved boulders marked the Bartram. "12 miles" to Warwoman Dell?!?!  No way had I just hiked 3 miles an hour for 4 hours.  More like 10 miles.  But did I trust my own feel for my pace over the rock-solid certainty of a granite boulder?  Yes I did.  And, I found out when I got home that the guidebooks agreed with my estimations.

Wrong!  It's only 9.4 miles to Warwoman Dell

A mile after joining the Chattooga River Trail, where I'd hiked a few weeks ago, the Bartram drops to the Chattooga River.

Green waters of the Chattooga River

I continued on leaving the river after a mile, climbing another knob, crossing hemlock-shaded Warwoman Creek over an iron bridge, climbing yet another knob, and finally arriving at Laurel Branch, where I'd camped several years ago the first trip I used a hammock (oh what memories!).  After a 3 PM snack, I decided to turn around.  After carrying the extra weight of my winter underquilt and warm down jacket, I wanted to put them to good use by camping on the cold banks of the Chattooga.  On the final descent, my leg was getting really sore.  I'd hiked a total of 18.8 miles that first day.

Dehydrated big shrimp (cut in half) rehydrated in cold water.  Sending "OK" message on my new SPOT.

Stretching and watching a great blue heron fly up river.

Celebrated daylight savings time by going to bed ridiculously early.

The next day, it was 10 miles back to Warwoman Dell, and my leg was hurting on the downhills so took it easy.  Water was flowing at intermittent streams when only a slow drip had been previously in summer.  Back at Warwoman Dell, I took the nature trail to find more signs of spring.

Little friend.

Spear-leaved violets at Warwoman Dell.

Two tiny salamanders were under a rock beneath Warwoman Creek Falls.