Next Generation DIY Hiking Skirt

Holes are erupting on my old hiking skirt after all the use it got on the Pacific Crest Trail and Arizona Trail this past year.  Time to sew a new version of my favorite hiking skirt!

Next generation DIY hiking skirt--in upsidedown tree print!

I made two skirts this time in case I don't get back to my parent's house for a while.  The downside of traveling, couchsurfing, and life on the road is that I don't see my sewing machine very often, since I'm storing everything at my parents' house.  Thanks Mom and Dad for letting me transform your living room into a spacious sewing workshop for a few days!

A second glitter camo DIY skirt.

I took some photos while I was sewing so you can see how I made my hiking skirts.  I’ll also include a mock-up of my homemade pattern and include comments on fabrics and design notes for all you DIYers out there.

Advantages of hiking skirts
   - Prevent chafe and upper thigh heat rash because they are breezy.
   - Easy and fast to pee.  Allows peeing standing up.
   - Versatile- add long underwear underneath in the cold.  Wear rainpants over them, tucking extra material down into the pant legs.
   - For thick undergrowth and bushwhacking, wear with tall gaiters.

I am not bothered by biting insects while I hike in a skirt.  In camp, rainpants worn over my skirt prevent bites.

My skirt design features
   - Side pockets with double layer of material, sized to hold a map and smartphone.
   - Low-profile elastic waistband comfy beneath backpacking hipbelt
   - Cut to allow freedom of movement.  Plenty of material and flare to allow big steps.
   - Fabric in prints, colors, and glitter to make me smile.

Materials

Considerations in choosing fabrics:
  - Stretchy for motion (lycra).
  - Abrasion resistant for bushwhacking and overgrown trail (ripstop). 
  - Doesn’t chafe when wet.

I use more stretchy material on the sides for nice movement as I hike.  Lycra isn't as abrasion-resistant as the ripstop.  The ripstop on the back panel is good to sit on and provides more protection in front when bushwhacking.  Using the two fabric types together is a compromise.

Front, back, and pocket fabric:  Ripstop Supplex nylon from Rockywoods.com.  More abrasion resistant, but only comes in solid colors.  Has slight stretch.

Side panels:  Lycra (tree print from a pair of leggings, glitter camo from Joann's fabric).  Fabric stores have limited selection of print fabrics, so I used a pair of lycra leggings with gorgeous tree print (my trail name is "Hemlock" because I love trees).  I cut them apart to use the material, but had to use it upside-down so it would be the right size.   Thus, the "upside-down" finished skirt. 

Ripstop material (left).  Cut open lycra leggings (right) to provide fabric for the side panels.

Basic Pattern
The pattern is my own design, and I've only ever made this skirt to fit me (about 34 inch waist--varies between 32 and 36 inches depending on weight gain/loss).  See Megan's notes below in the comments section for how to alter the pattern to fit your waist size.

This skirt was about 21 1/2 inches long when finished.  

Cartoon of the pattern for the front and back panels.

Cartoon of the pocket and side panel pattern.

Cutting out the material
Be sure to cut on the grain of the fabric.  I tried doing a skirt cut on the bias, and it stretched out too much.

My actual patterns are works in progress.  Years ago when I was obsessed with my pack weight and dropping ounces, I'd make the skirt short to keep the weight of the skirt down.  When I saw how much sunscreen I kept having to apply to keep my knees from burning, I decided to sew the skirts longer to provide more coverage (but I haven't weighted the new version- I know it has to weigh more but now I just don't care).

I allow for about 5/8 inch seams on the sides.  The top waistband allowed for about 1 1/2 inch.

Cutting the front and back panels out of ripstop on the fold.

Cutting pockets (left) on the fold.  Cutting side panels (right) out of lycra on the fold (cut 2).

Cutting the front panel (right) out of blue ripstop material.

Constructing the skirt
Simple slip pockets were constructed by sewing two pieces of material together (left) with a hole at the top to flip the material through.  Then topstitching the fabric around the edges.  I sewed the top again using the coverstitch on the serger as decoration.

Sew two fabric pieces right sides together (left) then flip and topstitch (right).

Attach the pockets onto the side panels six inches from the top, centered.  I sewed them on with several passes of the machine to provide extra stability.

Sewing pocket onto the side panels.

Reinforce the edges of the pockets with some ribbon on the inside.  The top of the pockets need extra durability or they will tear the thinner lycra.

Rainbow ribbons to reinforce the tops of the pockets (inside view).

Outside view of top pocket reinforcement.

Topstitch used the wide cover stitch on my serger.

Putting panels together
I used a serger to attach the side panels to the front and back.  The differential feed setting prevents puckering on stretchy fabric.  If you don't have a serger, you could use a narrow french hem.

Sewing the side panel to the front (and back) panel using a serger.

Waistband
A narrow elastic waistband has less bulk to fit under the pack waistbelt.  I did a rolled hem but didn’t close off the channel.  Then I topstitched around the first seam with the serger for decoration.  Then, I threaded 1/2 inch elastic through the channel and tied it off with a knot that I can untie and adjust as needed.

Leaving the elastic band open allows quick adjustments to accommodate weight changes on the trail.

Bottom hem
Length of the skirt depends on preference.  Sunburned knees convinced me to lengthen this skirt a few inches to a final length of about 21 1/2 inches.  Previous versions used a small handkerchief hem (narrow hem twice).  For this version, I did a narrow hem and then added detail with the cover stitch on my serger.

Hem detail (inside view).

Comments, questions?  Please email me or use the comment feature if you have any questions!  I'd be especially interested to hear from anyone who tries this out!  Happy sewing!

References and further information

My first hiking skirt (made from an old hiking shirt)

My 2nd Generation skirt in Durastretch camoflague with DWR finish (from Rockywoods).

Can’t sew?  Here are two hiking skirts you can buy: 

This Melanzana fleece skirt was inspiration for my design, but I’ve modified it over the years.

Purple rain skirts are gaining in popularity.

2nd DIY Karo Top Quilt

Making my own gear continues to be a process that I find very fulfilling.  With the arrival of cooler weather, it was time to sew a new top quilt.  It can be a challenge designing gear without a pattern, which is why making prototypes helps the process.  My DIY summer quilt (detailed here) served as a prototype for this new winter quilt project, though it's also a completely functional piece of gear.  It was an interesting process to improve upon the earlier design and though I've only taken it out on the trail for one night, so far I love the 3-4 inches of cozy down softness.

***Update 7/16- This quilt has kept me warm in my hammock for over 2000 miles and counting. A favorite! ***

The new DIY winter top quilt

Reflections on the first design:
First I'll digress a bit about the prototype/ summer quilt.  This was my first time using a top quilt rather than a sleeping bag, and I was delighted with how much faster it was get settled into my hammock since I didn't have to mess with a zipper or all that bulk.  I'm definitely a fan of quilts!

I also initially had my doubts about the karo quilt design.  But as it turned out, the karo baffle design did a great job holding the down in place while also allowing me to shift down during use (usually to the feet, sometimes to the sides when it got too hot).  Because I started with a summer weight quilt, it required less down, so the first design only cost me $51.  Fortunately, I ended up liking the design, but I'm glad I started with more inexpensive materials.  Since it was for summer, I erred on the side of making it too small since I figured the risks were low.  I found the size of this quilt fit like a glove, saving me weight and bulk.  

While using my first karo top quilt, I brainstormed ways to improve the design for a second quilt for winter.  I knew I wanted a sewn footbox, a slightly roomier cut, and, after our season of record rainfall, moisture-resistant materials.

Strips of masking tape stabilize the baffles while sewing them.

Materials:
I was reluctant to spend a ton of money on materials, but then my folks sent me a check for my birthday.  So I immediately put in the order for my first choice of all the materials. (Thanks Mom and Dad!)

    Fabric: 5 yards of 0.67 oz/yard2 Argon fabric from Dutchware, $50 + $2 S&H
    Down:  15 oz of ARD+ DWR 850 fp from Underground Quilts, $150 +$10 S&H
    Baffles: white tulle, leftovers from previous projects.

    Total cost of materials: $200 + $12 shipping.

First the fabric.  To be honest, I got really frustrated since I couldn't just go out to a local fabric store to compare all the lightweight fabric choices that I read about (here and here).  I ended up using a new fabric called Argon that got favorable reviews on Hammock Forums (here and here).  They said it is more breathable compared to M50, but it still has a DWR coating, and is incredibly light.  Argon turned out to be nice and soft, and easy to sew.  It was more slippery than the 1.1 ripstop I used for my first quilt, but it was way more manageable than silk or satin.  Using a new (sharp) smaller needle was important, as was sewing at a slow speed and using a wide stitch.  I wouldn't hesitate to use Argon fabric again.   

I'm also trying out the new DWR treated, 850 fp down from Underground Quilts.  I made more of a mess stuffing the down since it came sewn into ripstop fabric, compared to the super-easy static free bags I got from Wilderness Logics.  Not a big deal if I'd been using the vacuum method of stuffing down instead of doing it by hand, but at least the bathtub contained everything.  Still, I was very happy to get hold of the DWR down and I'm looking forward to seeing how it performs.

Size:
My first quilt is a narrow 40 inches wide- sufficient in summer but for winter I wanted something that will cover me even if I'm sprawled out so I went with 45 inches at the top.  I know some people use draft stoppers, but I omitted them since didn't have trouble tucking the quilt around me because of the way my hammock hugs my body.

Another decision was the baffle height.  I aimed for a quilt that would be slightly lighter than my current 35-degree sleeping bag (23oz total with 8 oz of down).  So I started with a target weight of 20 oz, and from there I calculated the loft and baffle height given my dimensions.  The big advantage of a quilt in a hammock is it uses less shell material, saves the weight of the zipper, and concentrates the down up above, rather than compressing it on the sides and below.  So for a similar weight, I should get more warmth compared to the sleeping bag.  At least in theory.  Assuming I'm wearing a hat.

Finished specs:
                                 Summer quilt (shown for comparison)                New winter quilt    
    Weight:                 11.4 oz (5 oz 850 fill down)                                       19 oz (14 oz 850 fill down)                    
    Quilt size:             75" x 36" x 40" (draw cord footbox)                           70" x 36" x 45" (sewn footbox)              
    Baffle height:        1" (but ended up being about 1.5")                           2.5 to 3" (for 3-4 inches of loft)               

Summer quilt (left) and new winter quilt (right)

Footbox:
To make the sewn footbox, I used the same overall karo design as my summer quilt, expect I sewed the sides together at the bottom and added a circle of fabric at the bottom.  I cut the outer fabric longer than the inner shell to give a differential.  Then I added a circle of baffle to hold the down in place inside the footbox. I pretty much made it up as I went along and had to add a few pleates in the fabric to get everything to fit together, but overall it turned out great.
 
Final thoughts:
Making prototypes and revising designs is an integral part of the DIY process.  Thinking through the features to incorporate requires reflection on techniques and provides a deeper understanding of one's own hiking priorities.  It's especially rewarding seeing progress through all the different design versions.  If you're thinking of making your own gear- I really encourage you to give it a try- it's easy when you start with a prototype. 

For more information and inspiration for your own DIY projects:

     Check out the DIY section of Hammock Forums and the MYGO forum at Backpacking Light.

    Go on a Hammock Forums Hang- this is the place to meet a bunch of DIY'ers and creative folks.

First night with my DIY Top Quilt

Wasn't feeling well, so did a quick overnight on the Bartram Trail north from Warwoman Dell up past Martin Creek Falls.  I know it probably sounds crazy to go backpacking while sick, but I'd rather laze around in my hammock in the sweet-smelling woods than be cooped up at home.

I was eager to get out because it was finally warm enough, with the forecasted low in the 50's, to try out the DIY Karo Top Quilt that I made back in February.  I'd tested it out in my backyard, but this was its first trip out on the trail. 

Third weekend in a row with rain.  Thankfully, dark clouds warned of the approaching storm.  I managed to get my tarp pitched, hammock hung, and bear bag rope thrown in record time, all before the first drops began to fall.  It rained half then night and then the wind picked up and temps dropped, providing a good first test for my quilt.

Stealth site halfway up the hillside and sheltered from the wind.  Sun came out in the morning so I could take a photo.

When I started to settle in for the night, the first thing I really liked about my quilt was how easy it was to get comfortable in it.  I could just tuck it around me.  In contrast to a sleeping bag, which either has too much material if I spread it out, or require lots of squirming to get ziped up into.

The second thing I learned about my quilt is that it proved to be wide enough, at least so far.  Even though I made it only 40 inches wide at the top.  Guess it really is true that I didn't need more because the hammock and underquilt wrap around me.

The only thing I think I need to work on is the footbox, since I haven't decided how to make that yet.  I will either add more snaps to make the footbox extend up to my knees, or sew it together.  But overall, I really loved by quilt and was surprised that it kept me so toasty.

So happy after my first night in my DIY top quilt.

Of course I have to add photos of some flowers from the trip.  Also saw tons of trillium, but I figure you are probably tired of seeing so many of those.  Here are the new flowers that are out.

Wild geranium

Sweet shrub, with wild azalea in the background.

Solomon's seal, still wet with rain.

When I got back to the trailhead, I also checked out the Warwoman Dell Nature trail, where many more flowers were blooming including solomon's plume, dwarf iris, foamflower, jack-in-the-pulpit, and indian cucumber root.

Third week in a row my car has been by herself at the trailhead-- I think she's getting pretty lonely.

2nd Generation DIY Hiking Skirt

My old DIY hiking skirts have been getting heavy use, and this latest design has been in the works for a few months.  I sewed up a prototype with some inexpensive navy ripstop material and tested it on a few trips before making this latest version out of Durastretch camoflague fabric.  I'm thrilled with the result!  The main improvements over my first DIY hiking skirts are the zippered side pocket and more minimal, drawstring waistband. 

Introducing... my 2nd Generation Hiking Skirt in ACU camo.

A skirt as part of my clothing system:
Like any piece of backpacking gear, I use a skirt in conjunction with other items and it's important how it fits in with the rest of my clothing system.  I find skirts more versatile than pants and they make changing fast and efficient.  In colder weather, my long underwear goes under my skirt, and I can layer my rainpants over the skirt, tucking the extra material down into the pant legs.  So I didn't want it too long or too bulky.  But I also wanted a drawstring so I could adjust it when I'm wearing long underwear.  I wear tall DIY gaiters with the skirt in cooler weather or in brush/briars/buggy areas, so the skirt only needed to protect to the top of my knees.

Designed for function:
The design of my skirt was all about how it functions for backpacking.  My priorities were as follows:
    -Lightweight.  The total weight was 4.6 oz, which is lighter than my old 6 oz skirt.
    -Cut to allow freedom of movement.  Plenty of material in front, with a flare at the bottom so it doesn't restrict my legs climbing hills or taking large steps.  It's got less material in the back where I don't need it. 
    -Minimal wasteband so I can't feel it under my pack hipbelt.   No buttons, elastic, or zippers to be lumpy.  Rolled hem top is simple and the drawstring allows easy adjustment.
   -Large pockets on the sides where they don't interfere with movement.  The right quick-draw pocket holds a camera and map within easy reach.  The left zippered pocket holds chapstick and my tiny pocket knife.  A second layer of fabric gives the pockets added stability. 

I like securing a few key items in a zippered pocket for the things I always want on me even when I put down my pack.

Materials:
I was also looking for material that would be stretchy, abrasion resistant, and wouldn't chafe even when soaked.  While my other DIY skirts have been made out of old clothes, I've been running out of material.  So I splurged and ordered a yard of Durastretch in ACU camo, with DWR finish, for $19 a yard from Rockywood.  Turns out it's not as stretchy as I'd like, but hoping it'll make up for it by being more durable.

Construction:
I made the pattern myself, and have modified it slightly from the previous design to add more flare to the bottom.

Cutting the fabric for the prototype, using my homemade pattern.

One pocket was a simple slip pocket following this design.  The other pocket has a zipper that I made like this.  The zipper was salvaged off an old pair of zip-off hiking pants. 

Attaching the pockets to the side panels.

Next, I made a button hole in the front center for the drawstring.

I use any excuse I can to use my Magic Key button hole maker attachement for my sewing machine.  It's so much fun!

Showing off my buttonhole maker.  On the prototype skirt, I got carried away and put a buttonhole on the other pocket too.

Then, I used my serger to attach the side panels to the front and back.  My serger has differential feed which prevents puckering on stretchy fabric.

My serger cuts and wraps the edges of the fabric in thread at the same time.  Here I'm making the prototype.

Finally, I did a rolled hem to make a drawstring channel at the top.  I then threaded the drawstring through and add stopper knots to the drawstring.  For the bottom hem, I used this small handkercheif hem- basically making a narrow hem twice. 

Now that I've got the design down, these skirts are really fast to sew up.  I'll be on the lookout for new materials to test out.  Especially if I can find something even lighterweight.

Up on Pinnacle Knob off the Bartram Trail.  Photo by Sandy.

DIY Karo Top Quilt

I'd been thinking about sewing a down top quilt to replace my sleeping bag ever since I converted to hammocking.  But I'd always been confused by all the different quilt designs, and had heard horror stories of working with down.  At my first Hammock Forums group hang in January, I was inspired by all the DIY gear, and one of the HF members recommended the karo pattern as a good first project.  After many hours of reading, consulting with HF members, and sewing, I just finished my first DIY down project, a lightweight TQ for summer.  It was enjoyable learning how to design and construct this quilt, and am really eager for warmer weather so I can test it out.

My first DIY top quilt.

Overview:
Top quilts provide a lighter-weight alternative to sleeping bags and are especially great for hammockers.  This top quilt design is called a karo step because it has many short baffles arranged in open squares, and they have several advantages over traditional quilts with many closed baffles.  I choose the karo quilt for my first project because I want a summer quilt that I can shift the down to regulate temperature, and I thought it'd be easier to stuff the down into the single chamber.

The quilt packs down into a 2 L dry sack- much smaller than my sleeping bag

Finished specs:
    Weight:  11.4 oz (5 oz 850 fill down)
    Quilt size: 75" x 36" x 40"
    Baffle height: 1" (but ended up being about 1.5")
    Box size: 12" square, with 6" baffles and 6" gaps
  
Materials:
    Fabric: 1.1 oz ripstop nylon 2nds- DIY Gear Supply - $16
    Down:  $33.75 + $6 shipping from Wilderness Logics
    Baffles: white tulle, $1.25 from Joann's fabrics

    Total cost of materials: $51 (plus $16 shipping)

-Since it's a summer quilt, I used fabric that isn't treated with DWR so it will breath and dry out faster when I sweat.  I used 1.1 ripstop that was down-proof, and Scott at DIY Gear Supply quickly answered by question about this fabric-- both sides are calendared so there is no "shiny" side.    I was tempted by lighterweight fabrics, but since this was my first project, I opted to use inexpensive (and easier) material.  Plus I could just cut it with regular sewing scissors and give the edges a rolled hem and didn't have to bother with the various methods to heat seal the edges which many use on thinner fabrics.  It just took me a few tries with scrap material to get the tension adjusted on my sewing machine (i.e. longer stiches) so the fabric wouldn't pucker.  It was nice material to work with.

Construction:
-The design is based on karo quilts made by MAD777, teedee, animalcontrol, and chickenwing.  The wealth of information on HF contributed by these guys and others was incredibly helpful.

-I custom sized the quilt based on my measurements, following this discussion.  I calculated a length of 75 inches by taking my height of 5'9" and adding 6 inches.  For the bottom width, my size 11 shoe size (men's) yielded a circumference of 34.5 inches which I rounded up to 36 inches.  Determining the width at the top was more tricky.  Standard quilts are 45-50 inches, but I wanted to try narrower since I don't intend to use it to go to ground.  My shoulder width (measured from the floor across the top of my shoulders) was 28 inches so theoretically I could get away with 33 inches (width plus 3-5 inches).  But I went a little wider so I'd have plenty to tuck under me.   Guess I'll find out how it works, and make adjustments in the next quilt accordingly.

-6 inch baffles with 6 inch gaps left enough room to make the sewing easy, but hopefully will be close enough together to prevent excess down shift. 

Finished size is shown by solid lines, dotted lines include 1.5 or 2 inch seam allowances.  Most baffles were 6 inches except for the side baffles which were 2 or 3 inches (caution: not to scale).

-I generally followed chickenwing's detailed instructions for the construction of the quilt, cross-referencing te-wa's instructions as well.

Triple checking the measurements and laying out the baffles with a cardboard template.

-There was a trick to cutting the baffles.  I rolled and then folded the tulle before cutting it into long strips, then used a cardboard pattern to cut each baffle down to size.

-All baffles and baffle locations on the shell were numbered with masking tape to prevent mistakes sewing the baffle to the outer shell.  Then I sewed the baffles on following this video as well as this video.  One thing I'd do different next time is to make the baffles a little shorter- they turned out to be closer to 1.5 inches, since I was so focused on sewing the baffles to the correct place that I wasn't as careful getting them the proper height.

Sewing the baffles to the outer shell.  Clothes pins keep the extra material out of the way.

-The amount of down was calculated with this google doc.  I went with 20% overstuff as recommended for the karo design to prevent down shift.

-Fronkey's method for stuffing the down was fast and efficient, and I used a vacuum with a net over the hose to pick up the few stray feathers that escaped onto the floor of the bathtub. 

Stuffing the down in my bathtub.  Hardly any mess at all.

Thoughts:
I was delighted by how smoothly the entire construction process went.  The actual sewing went so well after reading the helpful tips on HF that I didn't even have to get out my seam ripper-- which is another first for me since I'm always messing up and making adjustments as I sew.  The step that took the longest was sorting through and deciphering all the posts on HF (I have a lifetime of experience following clothing patterns, but the terminology for "gear construction" using a "thread-injector" took some getting used to).  Next time that will go faster.

The best thing is that now I've caught the DIY gear bug.  Now, on to researching the next project...

DIY arm gaiters

As part of my New Years Resolution, I've been working on finding solutions for my "cold hands" problem (i.e. Raynaud's Syndrome).  While the warm weekend weather stopped me from testing a full winter glove system and an awesome suggestion I've gotten from a friend (thank you JJ!), I did make some progress on the base layer for my new system-- DIY arm gaiters (also called sleeves by runners).  In colder weather I plan to wear these under my fleece gloves, with warm mittens over that, possibly adding a vapor barrier.

DIY arm gaiters with silver racing stripes.

I sewed these arm gaiters a while back using a pattern I created myself. The first version was too short and kept sliding annoyingly down over time.  On this trip I tested out some new modification which turned out great.  I added some fabric to make them longer.  I also added an elastic and cordlock closure to the top, and this kept them nicely in place.

I wear my arm gaiters with a short sleeved shirt.  They are easily taken on an off without taking off my pack, unlike a long sleeved baselayer.  They allow full dexterity, but in comparison to my fleece fingerless gloves, they keep my wrists warm.  I think this will be key since I realized my shirts and jackets don't protect my wrists since I've got freakishly long arms.  Keeping the wrists and all those veins that are close to the skin well insulated I've recently learned is really important to prevent cold hands.

The other feature that I tested on this trip was the power of the racing strips.  On hour 4 of this trip, I was uncharacteristically worn out.   We've been gearing up for our next big trapeze show, and the 1 to 3 hour trapeze practices everyday (including a 2 hour practice that morning) had finally caught up to me.  I downed my "emergency" chocolate and put on these arm gaiters, and their shinny silver sparkliness (in combination with the chocolate sugary goodness) provided extra energy on the steep sections.  It's no wonder that superheros where these things.  Perhaps my next version will have lightening bolts.

DIY Hiking Skirt

DIY hiking skirt

I love hiking in skirts.  They are comfortable, and perfect for easy peeing.   Store bought hiking skirts lacked certain, essential features (i.e. big pockets, scientifically accurate flower prints, glitter).  Thankfully, my mom taught me how to sew.  I made a pattern from a skirt that fits well (Melanzana mini skirt).  Rather than getting material from the fabric store, I cut up old shirts, since I'm trying to reuse and recycle more, and sew more of my own gear.

My first skirt was orange fleece.  When I wear my wool long johns under it, static electricity builds and it clings.  But I consider this a "feature" to improve insulation, though I imagine it looks silly.

My second skirt has:
   -Purple glitter thread!
   -Thin, low-profile, elastic waistband is comfy beneath a hipbelt.
   -Zipper pocket in the back for car keys.
   -Cargo pockets with prints of whorled pogonia orchid and trillium.  I xeroxed the images out of my wildflower guidebook, and made the prints on a gocco printer borrowed from a friend (made them a few years ago, but these were leftovers from an old project).

Now, I've got a fancy new outfit for the spring wildflower season.
  

Whorled pogonia orchid pocket.

Zipper pocket in the back.  Weird fabric leftovers, but I can't see it so who cares?

DIY Gaiters

Quite a fashion statement

I've been dreaming of sewing myself custom gaiters for years, and finally made some last fall.  They have quickly become one of my favorite pieces of gear, and I wore them every day last week on my trip to the Michigan sand dunes.

Gaiters are only useful under specific conditions though.  They are ideal for hiking anywhere dirt and sand tend to fly into your shoes.  They've also been useful for bushwhacking through tall grass and brambles, and on overgrown trails.  My gaiters keep my legs warm and protected when I want to wear a skirt, and can easily be pushed down when it gets hot.

Dirty Girl Gaiters, which seem to be very popular out on the PCT, come in cool and hip bright patters, but only go up to your ankles.  To make my gaiters, I started with this pattern and stretchy floral fabric to fit around my shoes, but then added on an upper portion of lightweight synthetic salvaged from old hiking pants.  They attach to my shoelaces by a velcro tab, and to a velcro strip superglued to backs of my shoes.

A triangle of velcro on my shoe keeps the gaiter in place