Day 12. Farewell PCT

Day 12. Last 3 miles into Harts Pass

7/20/23

Washington section of the Pacific Crest Trail

The night was wind-free! What luck! 

Jan and I enjoyed a most colorful light show and we could see it all happening right from camp above the trail!

The stars were new-moon bright and it felt like we could reach out and touch the milky way. And the warblers provided the soundtrack for a sweet sunrise. What fun to watch it all from our larch-perch!

 The last miles were uneventful. We arrived at Jan's car which was safely waiting for us. 

In town, Jan and I met up as planned with my parents. Of course we couldn't miss out on a chance to be goofy and enjoy all that town had to offer.

Dad, Mom, and me. PCO Jan

 I'm not sure when I'll write again on this blog, if at all. Writing has been helpful for me in understanding this PCT journey and I'm glad I could share it with others.

Day 11. Even more bonus miles

7/19/23 Day 11
South of Rock Pass to 3 miles from Harts Pass

Washington Pacific Crest Trail bonus

Another bonus day on the Pacific Crest Trail after finishing the PCT. Just wandering around and enjoying our time out here. Until I have to return.

We listened to the melodic song of the hermit thrush as we descent through rich forest. The day is all clear sunshiny.

We run into two friendly interesting couples who we’ve been leapfrogging with the whole trip and finally make time to chat more with them. We also talk to a few more hikers - several other section hikers. Yay! Everyone is friendly and I get lots of high fives for finishing. In pervious years, I’ve gotten bad attitudes from thruhikers who look down on section hikers but this trip there hasn’t been any of that.

Wow! Three different friends on this one blossom!

Jan and I are camped three miles from Jan’s car at Harts Pass but I’m so glad to have another evening enjoying the trail. Like all of my PCT hikes, I am not eager to leave this beloved trail. But I’m so glad I’ll be meeting my parents in two days so there is that to look forward to!

Last hang on the PCT.

Jan and I are camped on a saddle with views in both directions. It’s normally a place I’d avoid since it could get windy up here, but so far I’m in the lee side out of any wind. The only other sheltered option had a resident mouse that greeted me as I was setting up, so I quickly packed up and left her alone. Hopefully the wind doesn’t shift direction during the night.

Day 10. Still hiking

7/18/23 Day 10
Hopkins Lake to about 1 mile south of Rock Pass

Washington section of the Pacific Crest Trail

Even though I've finished the PCT, there are still more miles to hike to return to Harts Pass, where Jan's car is waiting. We are in no rush since we've got a few more day's of food and my parents don't meet us for a while.

Last night was our coldest yet- 38 degrees - and was a good reminder for why I always take my down booties and puffy jacket. It was nice to stay toasty!

PCO Jan

Today was a fantastic day on the PCT with outstanding scenery! I know we saw this terrain before but this time we took our time and stopped even morw than usual. Lakeview Ridge had crystal clear views off to the North Cascades and down to the lakes. Mags had told me that this is one of the most memorable parts of the PCT and he was totally right on! The section between Woody Pass and Rock Pass was also filled with butterflies and flowers. I chased them up and down the trail (but thankfully not off any cliffs) to snap photos for iNaturalist.

There were so many butterflies, including some alpine favorites like this one.

Our big plan for the day was to check out a lake that we spotted on the map. Win! It was lovely enough for a swim and plenty of relaxing on the shore. The butterflies were puddling along the shore and also swooping over the water. 

Fantastic lake off the PCT. This was one that we found using our maps (i.e. it's not on guthooks).

What a sweet bonus lake!

Then we found a campsite above the lake just a short walk to the open meadows views for dinner. We basked in the sun and looked at plants and spent the long evening relaxing. Time well spent, without any mileage goals.

Day 9. Finishing the Pacific Crest Trail

7/17/23 Day 9
Hopkins Lake to Canada (and back to Hopkins Lake)

Washington section of the Pacific Crest Trail

Jan and I made it to Canada today. As of today, I have hiked the entire PCT, some of it multiple times because of all my out-and-backs.

Me at the border monument. PCO Jan

The rain starts and is on again off again all morning. The scenery is mostly for forest with views through the trees and sweet, kind PCT-grade trail. It's good terrain for rain.

Umbrella time!

The monument itself is sort of like I'd expect from seeing other peoples' photos. But it also feels surreal like being on a movie set or peaking behind the scenes of a famous place. I know there will be the cut of trees, because that's the classic backdrop I've seen in other peoples' finishing photos. But I didn't expect the flowers or the rooty bare ground that so many have sat upon.

Jan and Joan.

When we arrive at the border monument, there is already a couple from Maryland (snow-bos) who we’ve been leapfrogging with there. We chat with them and we do a photo shoot.

Jan asks me how I’m feeling but I’m feeling so much it's hard to explain! First, I'm happy. I mean, I did it! But there is also a feeling of disbelief. I've still been thinking it might not happen. I also feel some sadness at finishing. I love the PCT so much and its a part of this chapter of my life. And now I wonder how I'm going to find something as good. Certainly no trail can possibly be as kind, reliable, joyful, and gentle as the PCT!

There is also freedom in knowing this chapter is over. I know that no other trail will be like this trail has been for me … because it has been a constant for the past 10 summers. While I’ve done section hikes 5 of those summers, not being on the PCT for the other 5 summers was still full of anticipating and knowing I’d return. Now that this is over, anything is possible.

I am also overwhelmed with gratitude for the many people that have helped me and showed incredible kindness, and especially for the wisdom imparted along the way.

Holding my PCT Class of 2014 bandana.

I think about how back in April 2014 when I started, I hadn't even met Jan! And how we met in 2014 during my stress fracture and how we ended up being bestie hiking buddies. And now we’ve hiked so many miles together and been through so much.

Look at this! Jan surprises me with a tasty treat! WOW!

I send an inreach message to my parents. They've been incredibly supportive my whole life and I feel so lucky to have them close to me! I also inreach Mags who truly understand how to integrate hiking and life.

A lot of people that have been important for my PCT hike, I've lost touch with over the years. But I send out my thoughts to them. I think about those I've hiked many PCT miles with- Susan, MeToo, Arizona, and Coach. I think of Renee who helped me get started with long-distance hiking, and with whom offered much support and PCT smiles. I think of Steph who helped me transform my stress fracture into a success and got me back out to the trail and saw me through such a dark time. I think of Still Waters who always believed in me. (Still Waters- if you ever read this, I want you to know that I carried your note the whole way and read it countless times and it gave me strength and wisdom to get me through so much. Thank you for everything, Still Waters.)

I am also grateful to my right foot especially for healing after the stress fracture, for turning my thru hike into a section hike, which has given me almost a decade of the PCT woven into my life.

One the return trip, Jan and I have fun chatting. I return to inaturalizing and finally seeing the pika that we've been hearing out frolicing.

That's me frolicing too. PCO Jan

Evening winds increase and I have bad memories too of many horribly windy PCT nights. So we climb away from the lake and amazingly there is less wind here and I am pitched between trees that are at the absolute limit of the length of my tarp. The temperature is dropping fast but so far I am cozy and Jan found a good spot close by so yay what a day!

Hardly any wind up here away from the lake.

As I fall asleep, I have more thoughts about finishing. Before I started the PCT, I remember spending so much time planning for the PCT and wondering how it would change me and wondering what I'd learn. Now I know that I can absolutely do and finish anything. I am persistant. And I can find all the joy in doing it too. I am also grateful that my PCT experience has been my own. That it was on my own timeframe. That I hiked my own direction. That I hiked my own way.

Day 8 Holman Pass to Hopkins Lake

7/16/23 Day 8

Holman Pass to Hopkins Lake
Washington section of the Pacific Crest Trail

Last night’s sleep was made possible by the wonders of ear plugs. I always keep ear plugs in my first aid kit- it's one of those emergency items that I'm always glad I have for situiations when other people camp nearby. I got solid sleep and was ready for the day!

Jan and I were up and on the trail by 6:15 like always. Today started out witha climb but the reqards were outstanding. We enjoyed views practically all day. The stretch over Rock Pass then over Woody Pass was amazing. There were even clear sky views off to the west of stunning glacier capped peaks including Mt Baker! 

I know that the Canadian border is a rather arbritrary end to this hike. But the scenery in these north Cascades is absolutely stunning and finishing here doesn't seem like a let down at all. It's truly one of my favorite sections (though of course I say that about all the sections LOL).

Jan and I can't pass up an opportunity to make snow angels!

These are the types of views that make me glad I waited to hike this section for a smoke-free window! It was worth the wait!

When sorting through our food bags, Jan and I discovered that we’d both brought an extra dinner and breakfast. Normally I'd be frustrated that I hadn't calculated my food properly and was carrying extra weight. But because it's Jan, and we both did it, we decided that it means that can stay out another night! This is another reason I am grateful to Jan for her awesome, relaxed hiking style. I'm excited about maximizing our time on the trail instead of having to rush back.

We passed Jans friend Nick who started his FKT attempt today. We also saw him yesterday on his way to the boarder — luckily since he had more time to talk then.

View of Hopkins Lake from above

In the evening, we had a hard time finding a campsite with two hammock-spaced trees for me and a flat spot for Jan. But finally we did it! We are camped near Hopkins Lake, which is surrounded by steep cliffs and the water is clear and colorful. We had a "long" swim in the lake- maybe 5 whole minutes- the water was THAT warm. Haha!

Hanging out after swimming in Hopkins Lake

Tomorrow, if all goes as planned, we will get to Canada! You can tell that I'm still not taking it for granted that I'll actually make it. Even though it's just a few miles away. But I've had so many things happen over the years, that I'm not confident that there won't be problems. Just have to see how it goes.

With the end being near, I’ve been wondering if I am one of the last Class of 2014 finishers, or if there are others from my starting year who are still going section by section. I also wonder if most Class of 2014 finishers completed in 2014 or if more people who started that year AND who complete the trail were section hikers and completed over multiple years. There are only a few section hikers that we’ve met. But no one else that we’ve met is completing the PCT. I wonder if I will be the only person who completes the PCT tomorrow.

I’m grateful to Jan for being here for this finale with me. She has been so supportive and genuinely happy for me and it fills me with joy to share this with her.

In the evening, I notice I've got a hole in my shirt, so I take the time to patch it up. You might think that because I am a section hiker that I have all new gear, but quite the opposite is true. My clothes and gear are worn from many, many trips. But I did restock my thread and repair tape before this trip, thankfully.

Day 7. Harts Pass to Holman Pass

7/15/23

Harts Pass to Holman Pass

Pacific Crest Trail in Washington state

Good thing I had that nap on our zero day! Last night was loud in the campground until hiker-2AM (ie 11 PM). Folks were driving in after dark, making stinky campfires (ugh I hate campfires because they burn my throat and make my eyes red and puffy), and talking late into the night. Really, nothing more than you’d expect at a campground. Only Jan and I are on hiker time- meaning waking at dawn (5:30) and going to sleep at dusk (or earlier!).

Today our packs were heavy with 5 days of food but I felt so refreshed after a full zero day and was full of energy. And ready to see what this last section of my PCT hike has in store!

Filling out our self-issued wilderness permit

We could see many of the peaks we’d identified on yesterday's visit to Slate Peak lookout. And we could see the lookout tower several times as we wound around on PCT-grade trails below.

We set up camp at a large campsite where we figured other hikers would join us but couldn’t find a smaller site. And sure enough three people are set up nearby. Hopefully they wont stay up too late!

Day 6. Rest day at Harts Pass

7/14/23

Jan and I have a fun and restful zero day at Harts Pass.

Slate Peak Lookout

Jan suggests that we head up to Slate Peak lookout and it is totally incredible! We take a morning drive to the parking lot and then climb a short ways up to the lookout. It gives us incredible views and we luck out with clear bluebird skies. Signs identify the surrounding peaks- including our past and future trail. Jan talks about previous trips she's made to the nearby mountains and I learn to identify their distinct shapes. It makes the rest of the trip more meaningful to be oriented this way. I feel so lucky that Jan suggested this diversion!

We sit enjoying views for a long time.

We’d thought there might be cell service at the lookout and I was both looking forward to seeing if I could get email and download more books from the library but also hoping there was no service since I’m enjoying the break so much. There was no service which was kind of a relief- and I used my inreach to check in with my folks who are meeting Jan and I in a few days. But besides that, I enjoyed the silence.

We spent the afternoon napping and avoiding the mosquitoes with various methods. My favorite was using my map as a mosquito barrier-- plus I could use the map to dream about future trips!

While relaxing, Jan finds her trail journal that she has saved from our 2016 Washington PCT section hike. She treats me to a read alound and we relive the memories together and share more laughter.

Jan cooks up a feast of delicious chili mac

Plus more butterflies and inaturalizing

Day 5. Into Harts Pass

 Day 5. Into Harts Pass

7/13/23 

A short hike back to Harts Pass. There are more swirling clouds and fantastic views. I know I say this every single time, but this really is one of the best sections.

We get a nice campsite at the Harts Pass Campground. I'm glad we've arrived early because this campground fill up fast.

It's luxurious to have Jan's car here without all our resupply. We've got changes of clothes, food, and her solar shower! Plus real towels! Jan sure knows how to do it right!

I eat the baguette I'd picked up in Mazama a few days earlier and it is the best baguette EVER.

We relax and move around the solar shower and solar panels, chasing sunlight as the shadows move around. What a great way to spend the day. Finally the water is warm enough and we clean up and feel amazing!

Once we get our chores done and I'm all relaxed, my mind starts to wander. I keep thinking about how I've just completed my second to last section. And that the next section will be the last. But I’m glad I've got a few more days- I’m not ready for this to be over yet. Will I ever be?

I tuck my hammock in a tight spot but it is so quiet and wonderful. I feel a bit self-conscious about posting so many photos of my hammock-- I know some people roll their eyes at those of us who talk excessively about our hammocks. But also I just have to say that it really is that wonderful to have solid, deep, restorative sleep. Since I moved to Utah, I sleep most of the time on the ground. And I thought I"d get used to ground-dwelling, but nope, the sleep just doesn't even compare at all. And my muscles and hips don't hurt at all. So I'm just going to keep posting photos of the hammock!

Day 4. Butterflies and blowdowns

 Day 4 7/12/23
Butterflies and blowdowns

This has been the day that Jan has been dreading. It's blowdown hell! And she knew this was coming because we've already gone over them once. But that's the thing about and out and back, sometimes the dread of knowing what's to come can be worse than not knowing. So we go back over the blowdowns and I do my best to distract myself with butterflies. My legs are much longer than Jan's so my experience of the blowdowns is so different. But on the other hand, I absolutely hate steep dropoffs, while Jan moves with ease past cliffs that make my head spin. We make a good team.

Long trips give you time for your mind to wander. I have been noticing how memories of previous PCT experiences are coming back. It makes me feel grateful for all the twists and turns in my life. And how things worked out not how I expected but in ways that gave me more than I expected.

Unlike the crowded feeling of the trail yesterday afternoon, there are a reasonable number of hikers and most are either courteous or even friendly so it all feels OK again.

We meet a group of Australian hikers who have flipped up to Washington who were on the shuttle with me to Mazama. It’s great seeing them again! They share the story of how when they got a ride up from Mazama to the PCT at Harts Pass, how they’d been confused and asked where the monument was and were surprised to find it was 30 miles away! They thought they'd be dropped off at the border! They scrambled to get enough food that they hadn’t anticipated! I’m glad they were fast hikers and could make it work.

The climb is gradual and not as bad as I expected. I am constantly amazed how gentle PCT grade is- how can the trail be this kind and easy?! How can I forget this fact? It is such a contrast to how hiking is for me back in Utah. My body feels so good- I keep thinking I should be feeling pains and my knee should be hurting but it isn’t.

Unlike when we did this section three days ago, this time the butterflies are out so I dart about taking their photos and inaturalize everything. 

PCO Jan

The, the clouds are swirling and part enough to reveal the stunning peaks and we take a rest break on a ridge and watch the clouds gliding across the peaks and it is better than any TV. 

When Jan and I round the corner to camp the wind hits us. After setting up early, I start to worry about the flapping of my tarp in the strong gusts. While Jan rests, I wander around and looked for less windy site, feeling annoyed that I can't find anything better. As I adjust my tarp to get tight pitch, Jan tells me to be patient and that the wind will die down. I remain doubtful but then, sure enough, the wind was calm all night and I wish I had just trusted Jan.

I fall asleep early and it is wonderfully restful and restorative hammock sleep that is only broken up by a trip to pee where the stars are twinkling and everything is quiet. The best kind of night.

 I didn't know if I would keep up a journal during this section or not. For my 2021 hike, I didn't write anything. But for this trip, it just feels right to put down a few thoughts every night.

Day 3. Out and back day

 Day 3 7/11/23
Out and back day
16 miles including a side trip to Snowy Lakes

Today was an out-and-back day. We packed up everything we'd need for the day and then carefully stashed some of our gear that we wouldn't need until night. I felt like I was floating down the trail!

The hike to Granite Pass was shrouded in fog. I loved the smell of the cold icy day. Clouds swirled and just tiny glimpses of peaks revealed themselves. We wondered what they would look like on a clear day.

As we celebrated getting to our previous turnaround spot where we'd been in 2016, blue sky swirled above and a ray of sunshine peaked through. We'd have very different views on the return trip-- it totally cleared up. And we'd have perfect swimming weather!

Snowy Lakes were a steep mile or so off the trail, so most PCT hikers don't visit them. But Jan and I make lakes one of our priorties. We timed it perfectly for the warmest part of the day. The dip was quick but we lingered on the rocky banks, soaking in the beauty.

On the last few miles of trail before we got to camp, we started seeing more and more people heading in the opposite direction. Some of them were pretty rude, not getting off the trail, barely acknowleding us. What was going on?!?

We'd only seen one person our second day and no one the first day except in camp. Most of the third day was quiet... until this huge clump started coming and it felt totally overwhelming. I started doubting my whole trip and spiraled into thinking that the rest of the trip would juat be one big crowded mess, unable to find campsite or peace and quiet. Finally, I asked one of the hikers why there were so many people and he explained that we’d just passed by a tramily of 10 that had been hiking together a long time and flipped up together and that explained it!

After picking up our gear, we hiked a few more miles before finding a quiet spot in sweet deep forest. I love spots like this because they give me the best sleep, though I know they are a comprimise for Jan since she loves views. We will have to find her a good view spot at some point.