Day 180- Burney Falls

Day 180, 10/5/14
1416 to 1433 (Screwdriver Creek)
17 miles

Entering Burney Falls State Park, I didn't know what to expect.  I'd been passing through the hot and dry country of the Hat Creek Rim, so the idea of a falls seemed far fetched.  Would there even be any water flowing?

When I got to the park, I turned off the PCT onto the Headwaters Trail.  At the bridge, the steambed lay completely dry.  Around the bend, there were a few pools, but no flow.

First pool.

Further down, a trickle of water was slowly gurgling over the rocks.  Then further still, the creek slowly but surely gathered strength.  The banks were lined with maples, their leaves changing color.

Yellows of the maples.

The falls itself was like nothing I'd ever seen- incredible beautiful!  Water was falling over the top but also streaming right out of the rock layers. A sign explained how the water of Burney Falls flows in underground stream channels all the way from Burney Mountain (which I could see from the Hat Creek Rim), and then encounters solid rock layers and so the water is forced to the surface.  So some of the water falling over the falls had collected in the headwaters stream, but some of it was streaming right out of the rocks over the falls. Totally cool! And so much water!

Burney Falls.

My parents met me at the visitor's center and it was much more fun to share the beauty of the falls with them.  They also brought my resupply box and second breakfast/ lunch.  It was a short visit, but I was so glad to see them.

Then I was on my way to start Section O, which I decided would be my last section of the PCT that I would do this year.  It was the start of the end.  But I didn't dwell on that.  Better to be in denial.  Better to be in the moment.

Day 179- Over the Hat Creek Rim

Day 179, 10/4/14
1391 (Hat Creek Rim) to 1416 (Wild Bird Cache)
25 miles

5:30 AM.  Not a hint of light on the horizon.  No moon either.   I was barreling down the trail as fast as I could.  Determined to make it off the rim as soon as possible, at least before the heat of mid-day.   Out of the heat and away from the hunters, I hoped.  To water. 

Night hiking.

Ahead, I saw headlights from a truck crossing the desert expanse, then coming to a stop.  The lights went off.  Oh no! A hunter ahead somewhere.  I was on full alert.   I was scared.  What if I was mistaken for a deer and got shot?  How many hikers have been killed by hunters?   I'd never heard if it happening, but then again, how many other hikers were out here this time of year?  None!  How many were out at this hour?  None!  I was scared.   I didn't want to be out here.  But I didn't know what else to do besides hike.  So I kept going.  Fast.

Around a corner, my headlamp illuminated a vehicle.  The hunter started talking to me about where I was going to find a hunting spot.  I corrected him, and said I was a hiker.   "Don't you know it's opening day?!?   Be careful.  You are brave to be out here!" I think he meant "You are crazy."

I had to get out of here. I kept hiking.  On and on.  My pace quickened even more.

The first signs of dawn.  Up ahead, another truck crossing the expanse, then moved out of sight.  Oh no!   I kept hiking, trying to make some noise as I walked.  Not deer walking noise.  Loud human-walking sounds.  I readjusted my blaze orange hat. It didn't seem like it was enough to protect me.   I wanted a bullet proof vest. (An ultralight, cool, wicking bullet proof vest.  Do they make those out of titanium?)

View of Lassen Peak from the Hat Creek Rim.

Rounding another corner, another hunter was walking towards me, his gun still slung over his shoulder.  He told me the all the other hunters were behind me, that he was the only one out this way. I breathed a sigh of relief and wished him good luck. Hoping I was in the clear, if not from the heat yet, at least maybe I wouldn't get shot.

The day warmed up fast. I kept hiking as fast as I could.  A few time I heard gunshots echoing across the valley, but nothing nearby.  Still, I jumped each time.  Probably should learn to duck.

On the rim, I paused long enough to realize I had cell phone service.   I called my parents, and they said they had found cache 22 yesterday.  They left tree gallons of water waiting for me there. Yippeee!!!!!

I was carrying 4 L of water, enough to get me to the next stream in case the cache was empty.   I didn't dump out any water though my feet were killing me.  Even when my parents told me they left water, still I didn't quite trust it enough.  Water was so precious up here and it was getting hot.  I did drink at a faster rate, no longer rationing.   I could feel the cells in my body breath a sigh of relief.  Ah to be hydrated!

Sure enough, I found the water from my parents at cache 22.  Hoorah!  I was so relieved!  It was wonderful that they took the time to drive up and leave the water.  This cache is usually stocked during regular hiking season, but since I was off-season, there was only about a liter or two of algae-filled water left.  I could have survived without the cache because I had carried so much water all the way from Subway Cave, but it sure made a different to be able to fill up a few more liters.  I also sat at the cache for a break and drank up.  Tanking up.

Thanks for leaving me water at the cache, Mom and Dad!

Then I kept hiking, down off the rim.  I thought there would be relief from the heat once I got to the valley floor.  But no, it was hot down there too.  My feet were killing me and blisters were erupting on my feet.  I hadn't been taking enough rest breaks.  I didn't want to take the time.  I wanted to get to water and to shade as soon as possible to cool off.  I dreamed of a swim in cool water.  I hiked like I was on a mission.

Descending down off the rim.

The consequence was that my feet were aching, sore, and hot hot hot.  Darn hiking shoes.  Oh I missed my trail runners.  They didn't give me blisters like these hiking shoes.  Didn't make my feet this hot.

But I hiked on and on.  Finally, after what seemed liked forever, I reached the Wild Bird Cache.  Heaven!  Shaded and cooler.  And there were several large bottles of water labeled "for shower" and I couldn't resist.  I only used a liter or two of water, but oh wow it was the BEST!  The shower cooled me off instantly and I felt like a whole new person.  Incredible after such a long hot day.

Hanging near the shower at the Wild Bird Cache.

Day 178- Subway Cave and the Hat Creek RIm

Day 178, 10/3/14
1373 to 1391 (head of Lost Creek on the Hat Creek Rim)
17.4 miles

I'd thought I'd be avoiding the heat of the Hat Creek Rim because it is October.  But fall has been unseasonably warm.  So I was glad I had a plan for the 30 mile waterless stretch across one of the hottest places on the PCT.  Start from the last water source at Subway Cave in the afternoon, hike as late as possible, then get down off the rim as fast as I could the next morning.  How hard could it be?

The Hat Creek Rim.

Because I had extra time and didn't want to start the climb up to the Rim until afternoon, I hiked in to the town of Old Station for breakfast at JJ's Cafe.  At JJ's, two women chatted with me about my hike, and bought me some cookies from the bakery there.  What a treat!  Thank you Carol, the cookies were incredible!

Real, unexpected trail magic- sweet gifts from a stranger.

The last water source before the Hat Creek Rim is at Subway Cave, which turned out to be a fascinating place to visit.  There was a 1/3 mile walk through the large lava tube, with informative signs explaining how it was formed.  What a cool place!

Subway Cave.

Then I filled up with 6 liters of water from the water fountain outside the cave for the 30 mile waterless stretch over the Hat Creek Rim.  My parents were going to leave me water at cache 22, midway through the Hat Creek Rim, but I didn't have cell reception in Old Station so I couldn't confirm they had actually found the cache and left the water.  Being a cautious person, I decided to play it safe and bring enough water in case there was no water at the cache.  Because I take the advice to never relying on caches seriously.

Even under the shade of my umbrella, the exposed climb up to the Hat Creek Rim was horribly hot.  It's been a while since I've carried that much weight in my pack, and my feet were killing me.  I was drenched in sweat and feeling a bit dizzy from the heat.  Ugh!  I took breaks in what shade I could find to cool off about every hour, but I kept them short.  I kept as fast a pace as I could manage, knowing I had to get through this section before I ran out of water.  Heat stroke was a serious risk.  No messing around. 

So I kept hiking as long as I possibly could, til it started getting pretty dark and I couldn't make myself go any further.  I hung at the head of Lost Creek Canyon, a bit off the trail.  The sunset was gorgeous and I used my last bit of energy to walk over for a view.

Sunset on the Hat Creek Rim.

After I was almost asleep in my hammock, a truck passed right near me.  Crazy I thought I was in the middle of nowhere.  I could see that the truck was packed with a bunch of guys.  Dang it, they were hunters.  I realized it was a Friday night.  This was gonna be trouble tomorrow morning!  I'd have to contend with both the heat and hunters.  Try not to get shot for being mistaken for a deer and not to die of heat stroke.   I fell asleep not looking forward to the next day.

Day 177- Lakes in Lassen

Day 177, 10/2/14
1354 (Drakesbad) to 1373.5 (Hat Creek)
19.7 miles

Said goodbye to my parents after breakfast at Drakesbad (in Lassen Nat'l Park), and set out again north on the PCT towards Burney Falls State Park. 

Me and my dad.

The climb out of the Warner Valley provided perspective on all the areas we'd seen hiking around Drakesbad.  I could see the hot springs pool at Drakesbad and far up the valley just make out Devil's Kitchen.

Climbing out of the Warner Valley.

 Lassen National Park is known for its geothermal features.  However, the PCT doesn't pass by any more of those.  Instead, it goes to a quiet area of the park past Swan Lake and Upper Twin Lake.  

Silver Lake.

Reflections.

From there, I decided to take the Cluster Lakes Alternate past several more lakes, rather than following the official PCT.  How could I not?!?   This area had been burned only a few years ago, but I still enjoyed seeing all the lakes.

Feather Lake.

After leaving the park, the PCT descended to the cascading Hat Creek, where I am hanging in my hammock between a ponderosa pine and an incense cedar.  Hard to believe after being around all this water today that tomorrow I'll start along the 30 mile waterless stretch known as the Hat Creek Rim.

Note: I'm finishing up my last section before I take a break for winter and finish next year.  I will update the blog when I get back- I want to focus fully on enjoying it.  Will post photos on Instagram.

Day 175 & 176- Drakesbad

Days 175-176, 9/30-10/1
Two Zero Days

Before relaxing in Drakesbad, my parents took me into Chester to get my town chores done. Laundry and resupply and all that. Chester was a great little town, and we had excellent dinner and also breakfast at the Copper Kettle.

Then it was back to Drakesbad for a truly wonderful and relaxing time. Delicious food, soaking in the hot springs pool, and of course hiking and exploring.

My parents and I went back on the PCT to Boiling Springs Lake. I loved being able to see it for a second time.

Next we hiked to Devil's Kitchen where there were more spectacular bubbling mud pots, steam vents, and hot springs. A large mud pot made a loud thud-thump as it spurted out boiling mud. Another family walked by us and we overheard the father saying, "That's the heartbeat of the earth." The little girl said earnestly, "I want to go closer to see the heart."

You could really get a sense from being there that we were closer to the earth's magma, and that it wasn't hard to imagine this volcano as active. At about three miles round-trip, this isn't someplace most PCT hikers take the time to visit. Which is unfortunate because it's so dramatic.

Then it was only a short detour over to Dream Lake, which has now been allowed to revert back to a meadow now that the dam was breached. There wasn't a trail around the meadow, so it was time for bushwhacking. Mom and Dad are adventurous and crossed streams on fallen logs like pros.

 We saw a great blue heron, and found really neat aquatic flowers which the guidebook back at the lodge showed were water buttercups.

I really loved it at Drakesbad and it was one of the best birthday gifts ever to be able to stay there with my folks. I'll never forget it.

Day 174- Birthday at Drakesbad

Day 174, 9/29/14
1342 to 1354 (Drakesbad)
12 miles

Crisp air, frost down in the valley. Cold granola for breakfast, like every morning, but for some reason it tasted extra delicious as I ate it in my hammock with the clear view of Lassen Peak in the distance. What a way to start my birthday!

With plenty of time before I'd meet my parents at Drakesbad Guest Ranch, every side trail could be explored. 0.3 miles to Domingo Springs (at a car-accessible campground), to the wonder of gushing, clear spring waters and the awesomeness of trashcans- ah what luxury to not have to haul around the clutter of wrappers and used tp.

Domingo Springs.

Entered Lassen National Park, and took the side trail to Terminal Geyser. The scent hit me first- that wonderful sulfur smell. Then the rising plume of steam, then the bubbling water, the colorful rocks around the fumerole. Incredible!

Terminal Geyser

The next geothermal site was Boiling Springs Lake- a green, 130-degree lake with mud pots spewing and gurgling along the edges.

Boiling Springs Lake.

I was warmly greeted at Drakesbad Guest Ranch.  My parents had already been there and were out looking for me, so the staff offered me tea and scones while I waited.  Really hiker friendly!

My parents drove here from Wisconsin to visit and for a vacation of their own, but I must say it was really special to meet them on my birthday in such an incredible place. Feeling so fortunate and loved.

Me and my Dad.

Day 173- Finding that spot

Day 173, 9/28/14
1316 to 1342
26 miles

Tomorrow is my birthday so I had my heart set on finding a special campsite this evening. I wanted to wake up in a beautiful place.

Rain on and off all day. Not as cold as a few days ago when I got so chilled, but I still I had to keep moving to stay warm. No side trails or lingering. I kept my head down, umbrella blocking my view like blinders, not seeing much besides the trail ahead. Regressing back into the mindset of hiking only to get the miles done. It took a conscious effort to not get stuck in the drudgery of slogging along in the dreariness. One might think there is not much to see in the grayness, in the monotonous pine forest, but it just takes more imagination to appreciate the shades of gray, to notice the small things- the tufts of lichen, the shapes of rotting logs, the scampering chipmunks. I could also decide to enjoy the movement along the trail, to feel the strength in my legs, to listen to the rhythm of my breath and footsteps. Deciding to be happy in the rain. Soon, I was cruising along and still savoring the experience.

Seeing beauty in the little things.

Passed the monument for the PCT halfway point. It's not as meaningful to me now that I'm a section hiker, and on the two-year plan. It doesn't feel like I'm halfway to anywhere.

PCT-Midpoint marker.

In the late afternoon, I filled up on water at Stover Camp, the last water for a while, and set out to find a campsite. There were hunters at Stover so I wanted to get well beyond them. Then, there were logging roads so I thought I'd keep going. Then, it was boring logged-out manzanita land. By 'hiker logic' there had to be something better around the bend or over the next mountain.

Weighed down with water for a dry camp and tired from the long day already, still, I felt my pace quicken- gotta get somewhere good before fading light- which is getting earlier since it's well into autumn now. The legs responded with strength- they weren't tired they were moving. Go go go. Up up up.

Crossing the ridge over North Stover Mountain, the snow-covered peak of Lassen was visible in the distance. Ah a view after so many view-less miles! I followed the trail along the hillside across steep volcanic slopes. It was one of the (many) times I was especially glad to have a hammock because there weren't flat spots but boy were there gorgeous trees. I scurried up above a rock outcrop to a grove of huge firs.

Distant view of Lassen.

The rain clouds once again were swirling and making for a dramatic sunset. Going the extra miles to find this campsite was definitely worth it! I made up for some of the monotony of the day by soaking it all in- sitting and really watching and looking. Perfect Birthday-eve.