Day 5. Into Harts Pass

 Day 5. Into Harts Pass

7/13/23 

A short hike back to Harts Pass. There are more swirling clouds and fantastic views. I know I say this every single time, but this really is one of the best sections.

We get a nice campsite at the Harts Pass Campground. I'm glad we've arrived early because this campground fill up fast.

It's luxurious to have Jan's car here without all our resupply. We've got changes of clothes, food, and her solar shower! Plus real towels! Jan sure knows how to do it right!

I eat the baguette I'd picked up in Mazama a few days earlier and it is the best baguette EVER.

We relax and move around the solar shower and solar panels, chasing sunlight as the shadows move around. What a great way to spend the day. Finally the water is warm enough and we clean up and feel amazing!

Once we get our chores done and I'm all relaxed, my mind starts to wander. I keep thinking about how I've just completed my second to last section. And that the next section will be the last. But I’m glad I've got a few more days- I’m not ready for this to be over yet. Will I ever be?

I tuck my hammock in a tight spot but it is so quiet and wonderful. I feel a bit self-conscious about posting so many photos of my hammock-- I know some people roll their eyes at those of us who talk excessively about our hammocks. But also I just have to say that it really is that wonderful to have solid, deep, restorative sleep. Since I moved to Utah, I sleep most of the time on the ground. And I thought I"d get used to ground-dwelling, but nope, the sleep just doesn't even compare at all. And my muscles and hips don't hurt at all. So I'm just going to keep posting photos of the hammock!

Day 4. Butterflies and blowdowns

 Day 4 7/12/23
Butterflies and blowdowns

This has been the day that Jan has been dreading. It's blowdown hell! And she knew this was coming because we've already gone over them once. But that's the thing about and out and back, sometimes the dread of knowing what's to come can be worse than not knowing. So we go back over the blowdowns and I do my best to distract myself with butterflies. My legs are much longer than Jan's so my experience of the blowdowns is so different. But on the other hand, I absolutely hate steep dropoffs, while Jan moves with ease past cliffs that make my head spin. We make a good team.

Long trips give you time for your mind to wander. I have been noticing how memories of previous PCT experiences are coming back. It makes me feel grateful for all the twists and turns in my life. And how things worked out not how I expected but in ways that gave me more than I expected.

Unlike the crowded feeling of the trail yesterday afternoon, there are a reasonable number of hikers and most are either courteous or even friendly so it all feels OK again.

We meet a group of Australian hikers who have flipped up to Washington who were on the shuttle with me to Mazama. It’s great seeing them again! They share the story of how when they got a ride up from Mazama to the PCT at Harts Pass, how they’d been confused and asked where the monument was and were surprised to find it was 30 miles away! They thought they'd be dropped off at the border! They scrambled to get enough food that they hadn’t anticipated! I’m glad they were fast hikers and could make it work.

The climb is gradual and not as bad as I expected. I am constantly amazed how gentle PCT grade is- how can the trail be this kind and easy?! How can I forget this fact? It is such a contrast to how hiking is for me back in Utah. My body feels so good- I keep thinking I should be feeling pains and my knee should be hurting but it isn’t.

Unlike when we did this section three days ago, this time the butterflies are out so I dart about taking their photos and inaturalize everything. 

PCO Jan

The, the clouds are swirling and part enough to reveal the stunning peaks and we take a rest break on a ridge and watch the clouds gliding across the peaks and it is better than any TV. 

When Jan and I round the corner to camp the wind hits us. After setting up early, I start to worry about the flapping of my tarp in the strong gusts. While Jan rests, I wander around and looked for less windy site, feeling annoyed that I can't find anything better. As I adjust my tarp to get tight pitch, Jan tells me to be patient and that the wind will die down. I remain doubtful but then, sure enough, the wind was calm all night and I wish I had just trusted Jan.

I fall asleep early and it is wonderfully restful and restorative hammock sleep that is only broken up by a trip to pee where the stars are twinkling and everything is quiet. The best kind of night.

 I didn't know if I would keep up a journal during this section or not. For my 2021 hike, I didn't write anything. But for this trip, it just feels right to put down a few thoughts every night.

Day 3. Out and back day

 Day 3 7/11/23
Out and back day
16 miles including a side trip to Snowy Lakes

Today was an out-and-back day. We packed up everything we'd need for the day and then carefully stashed some of our gear that we wouldn't need until night. I felt like I was floating down the trail!

The hike to Granite Pass was shrouded in fog. I loved the smell of the cold icy day. Clouds swirled and just tiny glimpses of peaks revealed themselves. We wondered what they would look like on a clear day.

As we celebrated getting to our previous turnaround spot where we'd been in 2016, blue sky swirled above and a ray of sunshine peaked through. We'd have very different views on the return trip-- it totally cleared up. And we'd have perfect swimming weather!

Snowy Lakes were a steep mile or so off the trail, so most PCT hikers don't visit them. But Jan and I make lakes one of our priorties. We timed it perfectly for the warmest part of the day. The dip was quick but we lingered on the rocky banks, soaking in the beauty.

On the last few miles of trail before we got to camp, we started seeing more and more people heading in the opposite direction. Some of them were pretty rude, not getting off the trail, barely acknowleding us. What was going on?!?

We'd only seen one person our second day and no one the first day except in camp. Most of the third day was quiet... until this huge clump started coming and it felt totally overwhelming. I started doubting my whole trip and spiraled into thinking that the rest of the trip would juat be one big crowded mess, unable to find campsite or peace and quiet. Finally, I asked one of the hikers why there were so many people and he explained that we’d just passed by a tramily of 10 that had been hiking together a long time and flipped up together and that explained it!

After picking up our gear, we hiked a few more miles before finding a quiet spot in sweet deep forest. I love spots like this because they give me the best sleep, though I know they are a comprimise for Jan since she loves views. We will have to find her a good view spot at some point.

Day 2. Moody Washington

Day 2
7/10/23

Below Tatie Peak to before Methow Pass

Today there was moody Washington weather... and I loved it! The fog rolls over the mountains and we get to see it from high places. The cool air makes hiking so sweet. I don't miss the dry heat and intense sunlight of Moab at all. Today, we get clouds and the threat of rain and I couldn't be happier.

I peer down after reaching a pass and realize that there is an incredibly steep descent stretching out below. Will my knees be able to handle it? I slow my pace and Jan is way down ahead of me. But I have no confidence. She waits for me and we take an extra break. And before I know it we are at the bottom at Glacier Pass and my knee is fine. Just fine. Maybe I will make it to Canada after all.

Jan and I aren't heading to Canada at this point though. Our plan is unusual. But fits us perfectly. I love out and backs and taking our time. Jan doesn't want to deal with a car shuttle or logistics of going into town. So we've left Jan's car at Harts Pass and our plan to complete the northernmost 50-60ish miles of the PCT is to do two out-and-backs from the mid-point, Harts Pass. We are starting with an out-and-back going south towards Rainy Pass-- but actually we don't need to make it all the way there since last time we turned around several miles north of Rainy. So we are setting up today for tomorrow's out-and-back where we can slackpack and just leave our camping stuff, tag our turn around spot from 2016, and then come back to camp. What fun! Plus, we get to hike more miles this way which appeals to me!

At the end of the day, we encounter lots of blowdowns. Jan has shorter legs and these blowdowns are exhausing for her. I've got really long legs, so I find it easy to step over them. Jan is starting to dread going back over these on an out and back. We will see if we end up sticking with our plan.

Day 1- Back on the PCT, yet again!

7/9/2023
Harts Pass to near Grasshopper Pass (Washington state, the northernmost section)
Day 1

Around 6 miles

My pack feels heavy with 4 1/2 days of food compared to my weekend trips. But the PCT is (shockingly) PCT grade! I don’t know why this always comes as such a surprise- the gentle grade and the soft tread.

PCO Jan

I'm also still shocked that I'm actually on the PCT again! It's really happening! The reality that this might be my last trip on the PCT also begins to settle. Because I’ve been thwarted a few times before by this section, I didn’t let myself think I’d actually finish. But maybe it really will happen.

Even though I haven’t done PCT sections every year (I’ve done four long sections prior to this- 2014, 2016, 2019 and 2021) the years in between I still have the hope and dreams of the PCT. It is something to look forward to. Each return trip is like coming home. What will I do without the PCT in my life?

The few miles to camp are incredibly gentle with outstanding views. I chatter with Jan and we relax into our comfortable rhythm. It always amazes me how well we hike together.

I'm grateful for the gentle PCT grade. I’d been so nervous about my knee- in 2020 I started to get bad pain on downhills. Two years of physical therapy didn’t help. Then last fall I got fed up (finally) and went to another physical therapist, this time an ultra-runner who finally understood the problem - the recovery has been slow but I’ve finally been seeing an improvement. But after such a long time in pain, I still don’t trust my knee.

Each long downhill I wait for the pain to return but it never does. I slowly let myself settle into the reality. As usual, I’m stronger than I think I am. And the PCT is so much more gentle on me than my Utah trips.

Rainstorms greet Jan and I. My umbrella comes out and I think this is so typical for Washington- all moody and stormy. But then when we get to camp the rain stops. And the hammock gives me the best sleep I’ve had in years- I sleep soundly through the whole night. Somehow this too surprises me- I like to think I’ve adjusted to ground dwelling but honestly, I flip constantly all night long and its not the most restful sleep. But the hammock is pure comfort.

Day 36. Last day on the PCT this year

Day 36. Last day on the PCT this year
Wasco Lake Junction 2011 to Santiam Pass 2001
8/14/2019
10 miles

I’m going to miss this— waking up and getting to hike everyday, all day. The difference this year is that I’m not dreading getting off the trail. I have a life I’m really looking forward to going back to. I have a job where I get paid to hike! Of course it’s hiking with kids so it’s not all day long hikes like this. But nevertheless, I do love it. I’ve been thinking a lot about my students. How much have they grown up over the summer?

 I also love our home in Moab Utah. Surrounded by all sorts of public lands. Not just my park, but the forest service and BLM lands full of obscure and lonely places. More places to explore than I ever could in a lifetime. It doesn’t quite feel like home as deeply as Oregon does, but it is a good place to call home for now. And I miss Mags.

The return hike holds more surprises. I can finally see the top of Three Fingered Jack, which was shrouded in clouds and rain a few days ago. I spot a cluster of mountain goats on a far slope. I don’t know if I should be delighted or angry when I see them. If I were back in northwestern Montana, of course I’d be thrilled since they are native and part of a healthy ecosystem there. But in southeastern Utah, there is increasing evidence that the mountain goats (that were introduced in areas that they are NOT native for the purpose of trophy hunting) are harming native plants and damaging fragile alpine areas. So I do some quick google searches to see if I should be happy or sad to see these goats here in this habitat. It turns out that these goats are native and were reintroduced recently. Nice!

I get to last viewpoint. I can see all the way to the Three Sisters! I start to cry thinking of what an incredible hike this has been. Each day has been infused with joy and I’ve excelled in doing this hike my own way. So much swimming in lakes, visiting friends and family, going to Ranger Programs and learning natural history, chasing butterflies, iNaturalizing (over 94 species!), a bonus side trip to climb South Sister, and topping it all off with this out-and-back to give me well over 60 total “bonus” miles for this trip.

I’d intended to hike 540 miles but I ended up doing over 600 miles to cover basically the same distance on the PCT. That makes me happy and really reflects my hiking style.

My sister and her husband pick me up from Santiam Pass. We head over to a favorite childhood spot-- Belknap Hot Springs. Many family vacations were spent soaking in these hot springs after our "big" hikes. This is where I first learned how to section hike-- on the McKenzie River Trail. Though back then it was 3 mile and 5 mile sections at a time. But we would piece them together to eventually complete the entire 26 mile trail. Definitely a fitting place to end this trip!

Day 35. Bonus Miles

Day 35. Bonus Miles

8/13/2019

Above Jefferson Park 2035.7 to Wasco Lake Junction 2011

24.7 miles going southbound

When I wake up in the morning, I realize I get to do my very favorite thing today which is hiking all day.  Even though I’ve just done this section going northbound, there is no shortage of new sights. 

I spot a flower I’d completely missed two days ago, the fringed grass of parnassius. A fall favorite when I lived in Georgia. This one looks slightly different. A new variety perhaps?

This view of the south side of Mount Jefferson had been completely shrouded in clouds previously. I’m so glad to see this view on a sunny day. It makes it feel like I’ve gotten a second change to purely enjoy the scenery by doing this section as an out and back.

This is my first full day going southbound. I’m now passing a steady stream of nobo hikers. It feels crowded.  Some of the other hikers talk about how many miles they are doing. The “Oregon challenge” is where hikers try to finish all of Oregon in 14 days, averaging 31 miles a day. I daydream about what kind of PCT challenge I'd institute if I were in charge of such things. Haha! Like how many lakes can you swim in. Or how many plants and butterflies you can identify and iNaturalize. 

For my last night on the PCT this year, I thought I would try camping near a lake. A mile off trail so I thought no one would be there. But it turned out to be crowded with folks who'd build campfires, even though the signs all said no campfires. Since we'd just walked through several hours of burn area, I thought it was obvious why campfires weren't allowed. But I had to get water so I decided to ask one of the campers if they minded if I walked through their campsite to get to the lake to get water. Turns out they were with their 6-year-old granddaughter-- her first camping trip. As I got water, she told me about all the fun she was having and about the dragonflies and smores. And then they asked me if I was hiking the PCT and invited me to camp with them (which was tempting but I declined). Of course I had to go from being annoyed by their campfires to feeling happy that this little girl was having such an amazing experience!

I ended up finding a few trees that had escaped the fire and set in for a restful last night away from the smoke and the crowds.