Checking on Section 10.3 of the Appalachian Trail

Susan maintains a 1.4 mile section of the Appalachian Trail in Georgia- she’s officially a volunteer “overseer” for the Georgia Appalachian Trail Club (GATC).  She scouts her section ("10.3") at least 4 times a year, clearing brush and logs, reporting blowdowns, and maintaining waterbars.

Susan at 'her' section of the Appalachian Trail between Cowart Gap and Bull Gap.

Susan let me tag along while she went up to check on her section.  Even though it snowed last week and much of her section was still covered in snow, we decided to go up there anyway for an overnight backpacking trip.  We moved smaller blowdowns off the trail, and she reported a few fallen trees that will require a chainsaw.

On previous work trips, Susan helped a GATC crew repair a huge blowout at this site, including making those rock steps.

As a trail maintainer, Susan "sees" details of the trail that can be easily overlooked by a regular hiker.  She showed me how her section has a lot of 'fall line trail'- that's the type of trail that shoots strait up the mountain. Water bars are used to divert water from the trail, and check steps keep the dirt from washing away on this type of steep trail.

Erosion is a problem for "fall line" trail when water funnels directly down the slope.

I've always wondered why reroutes aren't built to add switchbacks and more sideslope trails in places where there is this old type of fall line trail.  Susan explained about the long process that is required to get reroutes approved and balancing the costs of new trail construction (including damage to new plant and animal habitat) plus the long time it takes for old trail to recuperate (i.e. the soil is all compacted and "dead").   What was also cool about hiking with Susan through her section was the amount of ownership and pride she has for this stretch of trail— showing me particularly well-designed waterbars, boasting about the salamander diversity, listing off the rare plants found here.

We didn't see any of the rare plants, but the ferns and lichen were lovely in the snow.

Another highlight of this trip was meeting Julie, an AT thru hiker from Connecticut.  The three of us women shared the evening and morning with laughter and great conversation at Plumorchard Shelter.  She is a mountaineer (totally cool and bad-ass!) and was obviously loving all the snow.  While Susan and I are in the process of agonizing over our gear and plan for our thru hike (we are both hiking the PCT in April), Julie told us how she set out with hardly any planning and will figure it out as she goes- it was neat hearing about her approach to her hike.  Best wishes for your hike, Julie!

Out for a night hike to watch the sunset reflect off the snow from a ridgetop.

First time hanging my hammock above snow.  I loved how the moonlight lit up the snow at night.

Check out Susan's Blog here

For more information about volunteering for trail maintenance:
      Check out Appalachian Trail Conservancy's website.
      Check out the Pacific Crest Trail Association's website.

Shakedown #1: Gear Angst

My friend Renee/ Pathfinder (that you might remember from previous trips here and here and here) just completed her successful thru hike of the Appalachian Trail this year (congrats, Renee!!!!), and came down to visit because she is planning to hike the Pacific Crest Trail in 2014 as well.  We went on a two night backpacking trip up at the Standing Indian Loop in NC.  This was our first shakedown trip for the PCT, and new gear items filled our new packs.  Oh the new gear angst...

Gear angst =  a trunk filled with 4 shelters and 3 packs for 2 people ("just in case” the new ones don’t work)

We've both been researching and getting advice about gear changes we'll need to make for the PCT.   For me the hardest thing is knowing how many years of trial and error it's taken me to feel so well-adapted to the conditions here in the southeast, and knowing how different the conditions out on the PCT are.  I worry that the ways I've found to lighten my pack (like not bringing things like a stove or campshoes) won't work as well for me when I'm on the PCT.  Fortunately, we calmed down a bit once we got on the trail- always relaxing to get out into the woods where we're both in our element. 

Pathfinder enjoying the Kimsey Creek Trail.

We camped our first night a short ways from Standing Indian shelter.   Our new Gossamer Gear Mariposa packs had felt great (we both had matching packs!).  Temperatures dipped into the 30's and the new tent and new DIY top quilt functioned flawlessly.  Gear angst significantly decreased, and goofiness, grinning, and giddiness prevailed.

Nice tight pitch on that Tarptent Notch!

New DIY top quilt can also be used as stylish evening stole.

New Gossamer Gear Mariposa Pack

Obviously, the problem with a shakedown hike on the AT is that it doesn't test our gear under the conditions we will face on the PCT.  To get a closer approximation, on the second night we purposefully camped at the windiest, coldest place around, the summit of Albert Mountain.  Somewhere we NEVER would have chosen under normal circumstances.  Though the winds howled all night and the shelters got soaked from being in a cloud, there was a sense of supreme triumph that we stayed warm once again! 

Albert Mountain.

I know I say after every trip I do with Pathfinder, but the best part about the weekend was how much fun it is to hike with her.  It's incredible to hike with someone who has such similar priorities while backpacking, is as exuberant as I am about being on the trail, and who can have lengthy conversations about hiking philosophy, the mental aspects of hiking, endurance, and technique-- some of my favorite topics and which I think are critical for the PCT (more on these in future posts). 

Overall, this trip was a great way to kick off the PCT planning!

Ice cream at Spring Ridge Creamery.

Trail Info:

The Standing Indian Loop starts at the Backcountry Information Sign, climbs up the Kimsey Creek Trail, goes north on the Appalachian Trail, and then follows the Long Branch Trail back to the trailhead.  Here is a link to when I did this loop in the summer. 

Disclaimer:

I am a Trail Ambassador for Gossamer Gear, a manufacturer of ultralight backpacking gear.  Gossamer Gear may provided me with this Mariposa backpack to use.  However, I don't receive any financial compensation from Gossamer Gear, am under no obligation to make favorable reviews, and all reviews are based on my own opinions. 
 

Standing Indian Loop-de-Loop

The Standing Indian area of North Carolina has several mountain peaks above 5000 feet and is drained by lively mountain streams.  The AT circles the Nantahala basin on the ridge, and I'd previously backpacked the classic Standing Indian loop.  Knowing the wildflowers are gorgeous up there in late May but wanting to avoid the Memorial Day crowds, I devised a route to maximize my mileage on blue blazed trails to form a meandering loop-de-loop route.  I ended up doing about 44 miles on 10 different trails plus the AT, FS roads, and an unmaintained trail that was more of a bushwack down a cliff face.  I visited two waterfalls and four spectacular rocky overlooks (including 2 lonely ones off the AT that I had all to myself), climbed the ridge and descended back to the valley 5 times, found tons of solitude, and plenty adventure.

Hopping off the AT onto a blue-blazed trail.

Some of the trails were much more difficult than the AT and are for those that really love elevation change.  But if you've already done the Standing Indian loop, are good at navigation and planning ahead for water, don't mind a few more blowdowns and brush, and want to see more of this wonderful area, pick up some maps and guidebooks and take some of these less traveled paths.  Many of these trails are also readily accessable by FS roads, and would make excellent dayhikes.

Canada mayflower was just one of many flowers in bloom on the lush Timber Ridge Trail.

Eying the swimming hole at the base of Big Laurel Falls.

Wood betony on the Beech Creek Trail.

What I loved most about my circuitous route was standing at an overlook and knowing the wonders that lay in the valley below and on the surrounding peaks, because I'd just traversed them.  It made me feel connected to the land.  It also fueled my sense of adventure and my curiosity for regions I haven't yet explored.

From Standing Indian Mountain, looking across to Big Scaly Mountain where I'd been the day before.

Route Details

Day 1- From the Standing Indian Backcountry Information Booth, I hiked 3 miles up gravel FS 67, and turned onto the Bear Pen Trail for 2.5 miles to the AT.  Then, I headed south for 1.2 miles on the AT past Big Butt Mountain.  At Mooney Gap, I turned off the AT onto the FS road for about a mile to the Pickens Nose Trail.  It was 0.7 miles to the rocky outcrop and viewpoint. 

Pickin' my nose on Pickens Nose.  With views of Rabun Bald and Betty Creek Valley.

I retraced my steps back to Mooney Gap, and took the AT for another 5 miles past lots of section hikers, on the way making a quick out and back detour down the Betty Creek Trail (0.1 miles each way), just because I couldn't pass a blue blaze no matter how short the trail. 

I hopped off the AT and onto the Timber Ridge Trail, and 2.3 mile later, took the Big Laurel Falls Trail out and back (0.6 miles each way) to the falls.  Back down at the FS road, took a left, for about 0.4 miles to the Beech Gap Trail.  The Beech Gap Trail led back up 2.8 miles to Beech Gap, where I slept very well after 22 miles.

Stealth campsite on the Beech Gap Trail right before Beech Gap. <note awesome new tarp with doors>

Day 2- It wasn't the miles, it was the elevation change that make this day challenging.  Dropped from Beech Gap (4490 feet) down the unmaintained connector trail to the Beech Creek Trail (guessing to around 3700 feet), which I followed for 4.4 miles (plus side trails) to High Falls and then up to the summit of Big Scaly Mountain (5,060 feet) on the "Scaly Nature Trail" (which was nothing like a typical nature trail, though it did feature plenty of nature), and back down to where it intersected the Deep Gap Trail at around 2900 feet.  Then took the Deep Gap Trail 2.1 miles up to Deep Gap (4340 feet), crossed the AT, and did an out and back along the 3.7 mile Kimsey Creek Trail down to my car at 3,380 feet (oops ran low on aquamira thank goodness I keep resupply in my car), and then another 3.7 miles back up to Deep Gap (4340 feet) where I met my friends briefly before they headed into town (hope we can hike together next time, my friends!), and I found another stealth campsite.  If I did the math right, that gave me 3830 feet elevation gain and 3980 feet lost roughly. 

Day 3- After another restful night in my hammock, I woke early and climbed Standing Indian in early morning light.  Then I took the Lower Ridge Trail 4.1 miles back down to my car.

Trillium along the Lower Ridge Trail.

Note of caution- the unmaintained connector trail from Beech Gap to the Beech Creek Trail, though short, is steep, totally rugged and wild, and drops strait down a cliff along a small waterfall.  Homan, the author of the excellent guidebook for the area, said it was the steepest trail he'd ever walked.  Which of course was incentive enough for me to want to take it.  I thought it'd be like the Deep Gap Trail or the Grassy Ridge Trail (both also go up to the AT from the southern side of the Standing Indian area)-- but this connector trail is in a league of it's own.  The faint trail required imagination and eagle eyes to follow.  There was one section that was so steep that I had to toss my pack down ahead of me and crabwalk down on all fours.  It has been recommended doing it going uphill, and that might have been good advice to follow.  I might also recommend not doing this trail alone or while carrying a heavy pack, and it's probably best to just skip it altogether.  Of course... I absolutely loved it!  The hunting through tangled trees for the (unsigned) trailhead, the searching for weathered blue-blazes that were just a few paint flecks dangling on bark, the jelly-legs, the heart-pumping exertion, the "what am I doing I'm gonna die" feeling, and finally the rush of making it over the final stream crossing without getting wet.  Trails like that give me confidence that I can handle anything.

Beginner Backpacking Trip to Stover Creek Shelter

I had so much fun this weekend helping out with a Trail Dames beginning backpacking trip on the AT in Georgia.  We had several first time backpackers and even a women joining the Dames for the first time.  And as happens so quickly when we backpack together, we soon were all laughing and having some great conversations.

We were fortunate to have a few hike leaders including Michele (AKA Certain) from the Central Virginia Chapter of Trail Dames.  The last time we'd seen Michele was on the Trail Dames hike leader training last summer, but it was so much fun to do a trip with her and hear some of her stories of hiking the AT and starting her new business.

After visiting Long Creek Falls, we hiked to Stover Creek Shelter and helped everyone set up camp and get water.

Practicing throwing the rope for the bear bag.

Even though we hung our food on the bear cables, we still taught everyone both the PCT and Certain's method for hanging bear bags.  Everyone caught on quickly and soon there were bags hanging high up in the trees.

In the evening we sat around and told stories.   It wasn't too cold, and I don't think people even missed having a fire.  We had a hilarious, and hopefully informative, discussion of peeing, pooping and periods on the trail.  Always one of my favorite parts of a beginner trips because it helps women feel more comfortable outdoors when they get all the questions answered about this stuff.  I think the guys a the shelter probably overheard more than they wanted to hear.  Hahaha!

We fell asleep to the sound of coyotes howling across the mountains.  In the morning, the hike to Springer Mountain was gorgeous with spring flowers including bloodroot, troutlilies, and yellow violets.  All in all a great trip and I hope to see all these wonderful women out on the trail again soon!

AT: Dick's Creek to Bly Gap

After such a fun time last weekend, I met Pathfinder again a week and a half into her thru-hike of the Appalachian Trail.   We hiked together from Dick's Creek Gap to the North Carolina border.

Saturday started out rainy...

and perfect for photographing...

...tiny bluets.

Given the forecast, we'd expected rain all day.

So it was exciting when the sun came out and the fog lifted.

We celebrated when Pathfinder crossed the NC/GA border...

...and set up camp at Bly Gap near a bunch of other backpackers.

We hung around the fire late into the night (i.e. 8 PM), well past when everyone else went to bed.

In the morning, I parted ways with Pathfinder at the gnarled oak tree at Bly Gap...

...and headed back to my car at Dick's Creek Gap while she continued on into North Carolina's Nantahala Wilderness.

Have a great hike, Pathfinder, until I see you again...

AT: Three Forks to Big Cedar Mountain

I joined my friend Pathfinder for two nights at the start of her thru hike of the Appalachian Trail.
I met Pathfinder last year on a Leave No Trace Trainer Course Backpacking trip in New Mexico.  She'd been talking about doing the AT back then, and it was so wonderful to see her at the start of her journey!   

*Check out Pathfinder's Trail Journal here.* 

Pathfinder and me at Long Creek Falls

Instead of doing a shuttle, I did this trip as an out-and-back, setting out southbound from a cold, blustery Woody Gap before sunrise, and flying south 15 miles to Three Forks.  I was overjoyed when Pathfinder, heading northbound, finally intercepted me with hugs and a radiant smile.  Bubbling with tales of her night at the Hike Inn and her start at Springer Mountain that morning. 

First night's campsite at the junction of the AT and BMT.

Pathfinder's warmth and positive energy was infectious.  The evening was filled with hysterical bear-rope hanging antics, delicious pumpkin pie dessert (rehydrated pumpkin + sweetened condensed milk over ginger snap cookies), and absorbing conversations that lasted well into the night.  Pathfinder shared details of planning and preparing for her thru with me-- which were so valuable because it turns out we are in similar stages of life in many ways.  Pathfinder's story of decided to quit her job and live her dream really resonated with me.  Can you imagine what that would be like?!?!

Stopping to look at the little things.

 How refreshing it was to be with a like-minded hiker-- noticing the beautiful colors that come alive in the early light, appreciating the simplicity of backpacking, and laughing in the face of the ridiculous misadventures that are inevitable on the trail.

"Over there?"   Bushwacking down the hillside to get water from a small stream.

Pathfinder had never stealth camped on the AT before, so it was fun to share the treasure hunt of finding a stealth site with her when we decided we were ready to stop for the evening before we'd reached Justus Creek.  In no time, the unremarkable site was transformed into a temporary home for the night.  And then the next morning when we left, you'd never know we'd been there-- we both fluffed up the foliage just like we'd learned last year at our LNT course when we first backpacked together.

Stealth site down an old road out of sight from the main trail.

The last day, we hiked to Woody Gap, and then continued up Big Cedar Mountain to Preacher's Rock, one of my very favorite campsites on the AT in Georgia, which was amazingly empty.  We shared some dinner before saying goodbye, until the next week where I'd join Pathfinder further up the trail.

View from Big Cedar Mountain.

Thanksgiving in Hot Springs, NC

I spent Thanksgiving weekend section hiking the Appalachian Trail near Hot Springs, NC, including the spectacular trail across Max Patch.   Max Patch is a grassy bald that was cleared for farming and which is still maintained by the Forest Service.  Its 360-degree views make it one of the most scenic parts of the AT in the Southern Appalachians.

I stayed at the hiker-friendly Hostel at Laughing Heart Lodge, right on the AT.   A private, single room was $25/night, and the shared bathrooms, kitchen, and lounge areas were clean and comfortable, everything a hiker could want.  Glenda, the host at the hostel, was very sweet and helpful and I enjoyed my evening conversations with her.  Staying at the hostel provided a great base for three days of hiking along the AT.

Day 1. Lemon Gap to Hot Springs (14.4 miles)
From Lemon Gap (3550 feet), the trail climbed a mile up Walnut Mountain (4280 feet).  I hurried past the summit and took my first snack in the Walnut Mtn. Shelter out of the cold wind.

Open, grassy summit of Walnut Mountain

A few miles later, the wooded summit of Bluff Mountain (4686 feet) featured rock outcrops and good winter views.  The last six miles descended through some pretty pine forest and laurel, then opened into hardwoods on the final switchbacks into town.  It was so convenient to emerge out of the forest into town, and to find the first building I arrived at was my hostel.  What a great way to end a hike!

Day 2. Max Patch to Lemon Gap
In the early morning, it was a frigid 21 degrees and windy as I swooshed in my rainpants up Max Patch.  The wintery precipitation the night before coated the landscape in rime ice, giving everything a magical sparkle.  Dense fog made me grateful to be following the white blazes, otherwise it'd have been easy to get lost.  The place had a desolate feeling, like I was the only one around for miles. 

Lingering to admire ice formations for as long as I could bare the cold.

Bright horsenettle looks beautiful covered in ice.

Poor frozen butterfly.

Icicles dripping from my nose.

 The second time I arrived at Max Patch, the scene couldn't have been more different.  It was around noon, and the skies were blue. 

A few hours later, Max Patch under clear skies.

Climbing Max Patch (again) via the Buckeye Ridge Trail.

Frost still remained on the north slopes of Max Patch.

Gorgeous icy glaze.

I felt so grateful to have experienced this dramatic winter weather and to have seen this incredible place under such different conditions.

To top off my fantastic day, I went for an evening soak in the Hot Springs hot tubs along the French Broad River.  The hot water felt so good on my tired muscles after a long day of hiking.    

Day 3.  Tanyard Gap to Hot Springs (6.2 miles)
On my last day in Hot Springs, I did the short section of the AT north of town.  After crossing over the hiker bridge over the highway, the trail climbed to Mill Ridge, an old tobacco farm that has since been planted with wildlife-friendly plants. 

Pond below Mill Ridge

An informative sign at Pump Gap told how Boys Scouts treated the hemlocks in the grove with insecticides to kill the adelgids, saving the trees there for another few years.  The hemlocks there were especially lush.

The trail climbed again up to a ridge, which it followed for several miles.  The French Broad River could be heard roaring through the valley below.  

View of the French Broad River and town of Hot Springs from Lover's Leap.

From Lover's Leap, it was a steep rocky descent down to the river.  Then the trail passed directly through the center of town.

Fascinating history.

Following the signs for the AT through town and back to the hostel.