Day 9. Into Seiad Valley

Day 9. Into Seiad Valley

Grinder Creek (1646.8) to Seiad Valley (1656)

9.2 miles 

As I walk into town, I see a bunch of “No Monument” signs. They remind me of the signs back in southeast Utah opposing Bears Ears National Monument. I am curious to know what monument they are against and if the conflicts have parallels to the ones we have back home.

I get to town before 10 and get my chores done before the heat of the day. It ends up getting above 100!

At the RV park where I am staying, I listen to some of the locals talk about why they oppose the Cascade-Siskyou National Monument. I decide not to mention the fact that I work for the National Park Service. 

Most residents of the RV park are retired except one family with two small kids. It’s so awesome to be around kids and I’m even more excited when I find out that that the older boy is into dinosaurs! Now there is a topic that I love to talk about! I spend a few happy minutes discussing how awesome dinosaurs are until his mom whisks him away. Ah, I miss talking about dinosaurs with my students back home.

There are only a few hikers staying at the RV park and we sit in the shade and try not to melt in the heat. I love how there are some hikers who you can instantly feel as comfortable as old friends with. I meet B. who shares a love for Big Bend National Park with me and has hiked the AT. I meet up again with N., who I’d met a few days earlier, and her husband S. It’s so wonderful to sit and talk to people who are so positive!

On this section hike, I haven’t hiked or camped with anyone. This hike is one I want to do solo. But it sure is nice to have instant and easy camaraderie in town. 

There is much discussion about the roadwalk out of Seiad Valley that avoids the overgrown, poison oak-infested section of the PCT. I’d been thinking I’d risk the chance of getting poison oak so I could stay on the official route. But then B. and S. tell me the critical bit of information that I’d been missing— the roadwalk has a great swimming hole and a waterfall! That makes the choice easy! 

It's still warm even at 8 PM when I finally set up my hammock in the back of RV park. I drift into a deep sleep and dream about refreshing swimming holes.

Day 8. Descent to Grinder Creek

Day 8. Descent to Grinder Creek

7/17/19

Shadow Lake (1620.8) to Grinder Creek (1646.8)

26 miles

More gorgeous views through the Marble Mountains with only a few patches of snow.

The long descent is brushy but thankful a trail crew has freshly cleared a huge number downed trees. I feel so fortunate to have reached this section when I do.

Two guys that leapfrog with me the whole day see two bears in the thick, berry-filled brush. But they must have scared them off since I don't see the bears. Only berries.

The last bit of trail has poison oak patches which I am careful to avoid. Plus this is where I am glad I’ve got my tall gaiters for added protection.

The Grinder Creek canyon has suffered a recent burn. It takes me a few miles after I want to stop to find live trees for my hammock. The tent campers have to go even further to find a flat spot. But I finally do find a lovely grove of trees near the creek. There is even a little sandy beach where I relax and soak my weary feet. 

I’m just nine miles from town so hopefully I can get to the cafe in Seiad Valley before it closes!

Day 7. Marble Mountain Wilderness

Day 7. Marble Mountain Wilderness
Etna (1599.7) to Shadow Lake (1620.8)
21.1 miles

My legs have extra energy after the zero in Etna. Or maybe it's because now I'm carrying a reasonable amount of food so my pack is light.

Waiting for a ride back to the PCT.

There is incredibly dramatic scenery as I enter the Marble Mountain Wilderness. All day I gawk and stare in amazement at the incredible rocks. And discover why they call these mountains "marble."

This is my friend Jan's home turf and she told me not to miss Shadow Lake. It's a steep climb down to the lake so I'm not surprised there are no PCT hikers down there when I arrive. I plan my day so I arrive with plenty of time to swim and camp there.

Unfortunately, the evening wind picks up. It's in the middle of a burn area and the only suitable trees for my hammock are a bit of a brushy scramble. Nighttime creatures wander about as I am trying to fall asleep. Eventually, my yelling at them to go away works and it is finally peaceful..

Too tired to wait for sunset. This is when I go to bed.

Day 5 and 6. To Etna

Day 5 and 6

7/14 and 7/15

1587 (Bingham Lake) to Etna Summit (1599.7)

12.7 miles (plus a zero the next day)

It is steep scramble back to the PCT from my camp at Bingham Lake. Another hiker looks up as I crash through the brush high above him. But then when I finally get to the PCT, it is a long stretch through the burn, so I am pleased with my decision to stop when I did.

As I am getting close to the road to hitch into Etna, I meet a woman and her teenage boys. She hardly believes I’ve been out five days. “You’re too clean!”  I tell her all about feeling refreshed because I’ve been swimming in all the lakes. 

We get to talking and it turns out that she has done some long distance bike trips. She leans in to give me wise advice. “Don’t get focused on the end-point or the goal,” she says. I tell her how I always make sure to take my time by stopping to swim in lakes. “Well, just be sure to only swim in just lakes you want! Don’t get caught up in thinking you have to swim in all the lakes.” Which is advice I love! Because even with my side trips, I know I can get pretty driven. 

Cliff maids (Lewisia cotyledon)

It’s hot when I get to the road crossing (again, thankfully I have my umbrella). Another hiker is there already so we wait for a hitch together. The first truck going our way stops and gives us a ride.  Not a bad hitch at all!

In Etna, I head to the the R & R Bunkhouse, a work-for-stay place that I’ve heard is awesome from a southbounder. I feel fortunate to get a bed here! Cate tells stories of the town history. There is a garden and everything is in walking distance. Perfect place for a zero!

Fresh veggies from the garden = heavenly

Day 4. Russian Wilderness

Day 4. Russian Wilderness
1567.6 (near Boulder Lake Junction) to 1587 (Bingham Lake)
19.4 miles

In the lovely soft light of early morning, I spot the first foxtail pines on the high elevation slopes. Unmistakable, especially having just spent two weeks amongst the very-closely-related Great Basin bristlecone pines in Nevada. Would I have missed them if I hadn’t heard the podcast mentioning foxtail pines last night? In any case, I delight in finding them. 

Foxtail pines

At mid-day, I meet forest service rangers on horseback. They confirm that the trees are indeed foxtails. It's so fun to share my excitement about the trees and gain some additional information about them.

By late afternoon, my good fortune continues. Just as I entered the Russian Wilderness, I meet three locals and ask them about foxtail pines. Without skipping a beat, they mention Michael Kauffmann and the Miracle Mile!  I find out they are hiking to a bunch of lakes in the area and they recommend a side trip to Bingham Lake.  I’d been wondering about it but there was no trail shown going to it on my Gaia GPS and no information about it on Guthooks. Turns out all this is for good reason- it is quite a scramble up to get there! But they say just go slow up through the talus and that I’ll be fine.

I make it to Bingham Lake!

What a lake! High above is Russian Peak and all around the lake are huge boulders perfect for lounging about. The moon rises. The light fades and changes. Fish splash about. I am mesmerized by the swimming newts (which are later identified for me on iNaturalist as Taricha granulosa).  A most enchanting evening!

Day 3. Trinity Alps Wilderness

Day 3. Trinity Alps Wilderness
7/12/2019
1545.9 (Chilcoot Creek) to 1567.6 (near Boulder Lake Junction)
21.7 miles

Today was hot and there were no lakes for swimming. The climb up from the road crossing took me forever. Thank goodness for my sun umbrella to give some relief.

My pack feels heavy since I misjudged how much food I'd need this stretch. The strain of having a heavy pack migrates around my body, making all my old injuries creak and groan. I feel creaking in the stress fracture on my foot from 2014 and also sensations at the patch of my hernia in my groin (from last year). Nothing alarmingly painful. More like they are just saying "hey don't forget." Reminders to be grateful for my body and not take it for granted. My biggest fear going into this hike is getting another overuse injury.

The beauty of nature provides plenty of pleasant delightful distractions. More pitcher plants! And a spotted fritillary!

It still feels quiet out here. I see four or five hikers going southbound, but no hikers going my way. Are the other NOBOs just all hiking in lockstep, so that we don’t see each other?

Right at the boundary to the Trinity Alps Wilderness, a trail maintenance crew is working on removing blowdowns. Thank you PCTA, the Forest Service, and all the volunteers for making this trail so awesome!

Finally I made it to near the Boulder Lake junction. Oh I wish I had energy to hike down the side trail to the lake far below. But it looks to be at least a mile and a 600 foot drop in elevation. Which is really not much but I’m too worn out.

Instead, I peer out of my hammock at the snowy peaks above and listen to a botany podcast (In Defense of Plants). It just happens to be an episode about conifer trees. They interview ecologist Michael Kauffmann about the high conifer diversity around the Russian Wilderness. Apparently there is a mile along a ridge (called the “Miracle Mile”) that is a true biodiversity hotspot for conifers. And this whole area of the Klamaths has more conifers (38 species) than anywhere in the world. He also describes where the rare foxtail pines grow (and which are closely related to the Great Basin and Rocky Mountain bristlecone pines). Then I realize that I’ll be going near that area tomorrow! WOW!

Day 2. Butterflies galore

Day 2. Pacific Crest Trail Section Hike (Northern California through Oregon)

7/11/2019

Mile 1523.5 (Helen Lake) to 1545.9 (Chilcoot Creek)

22.4 miles

Since I’ve started this section hike, I spend a lot of time doubting myself and starting to think that it’s lame that I’m hiking the PCT. I have the skills to hike a more technical trail. And I love creating my own routes in Utah and not seeing anyone on them. The PCT is popular and doesn’t seem remote in comparison to many places I’ve been the last few years. Like other things that become really popular, it now seems “uncool” to hike the PCT. 

But as I hike, I come to the realization that I really like the PCT. No, I LOVE the PCT. Exactly because of the sweet, gentle grade. It allows me the energy to chase butterflies and take side trails to swim in lakes. I love the easy navigation so I can focus on looking and plants and views and scenery. I realize that there is a reason that the PCT is so popular— it is accessible and kind and absolutely lovely. And it is exactly where I want to be!

Today is a joyful day. The trail stays high up on ridges and the slopes are covered with wildflowers all the colors of the rainbow. I love being able to gaze at the scenery all day since navigation is so easy. Plus, no blowdowns. It feels like I'm cheating.

Early morning views

It's so nice not having to look at my feet all the time. Instead, I can look at everything around me. Butterflies dart all about. Incredible what diversity is out here! A few even stay still long enough for a photo. I can hardly wait to get to town to upload the observations into iNaturalist (an app to identify and document plants and insects). One is a parnassius butterfly that I’ve read about but never seen in real life. Parnassius butterflies are cool because they live in alpine habitats and have thick black bodies to stay warm. I’m so excited to upload my observation so that other people can identify it and tell me exactly what species it is. 

Later this is identified as a pheobus apollo (Parnassius phoebus) which is also found in the Alps.

So many dotted blues! Yet another species we don't have in Utah.

Two dramatic lakes with inviting waters provide swimming opportunities. It is so refreshing to feel the cool water.

The PCT continues to feel uncrowded, even though I know that there are tons of other hikers out there somewhere. But I only see three hikers going SOBO- two section hikers stop to chat. I'd been worried about the snow, but they say most of it has melted and there are no sketchy spots.

Just enough snow to look pretty. But nothing hard.

Finally, I am laying in my hammock, watching mayflies doing their mating dance above me. At first I thought they were mosquitoes, but then I looked closer and saw their long causal filaments. Incredible!