Update: New Years Resolution (I did 20!)

This weekend I finally achieved my New Years goal of hiking 20 miles in a single day.   It was thrilling to set a goal that seemed far-reaching and actually accomplish it.  

My inspiration came last weekend, hiking with two ladies with the Trail Dames who were stepping on the AT for the first time.  Watching them strive to do something beyond what they'd ever done before made me want to try for something that pushed my limits too. 

I picked a section along the AT in North Carolina that I'd never done for a solo out and back.  I choose this section because it had a cool feature (Wayah Bald) 10 miles from my starting point (Winding Stair Gap), knowing that an out-and-back would give me 20 miles.   But I also promised myself I'd turn around early if I was feeling tired.

I've been building up to 20 miles for the past five months--  during the week, I climb my neighborhood hills with my fully-loaded backpack (looking like a dork), and I've been carrying a full 30 lb. pack on my dayhikes or going backpacking every weekend.  More importantly, I'd been building my confidence by hiking solo, first on familiar trails (where I knew I wouldn't get lost) and then in unfamiliar territory.  

Starting from Winding Stair Gap (3800 feet),  within the first mile, the trail passed a waterfalls and a cove rich with trilliums, clintonia lily, and umbrella leaf.  I took so many photos in the first mile, I never thought I'd have time to make it to my goal.

 The trail climbed to an opening at mile 4 where there was a side trail up to Siler Bald.  The peak (5216 feet) offered a 360-degree view of incredible mountains in all directions.

Siler Bald

The trail then descended to Wayah Gap (4200 feet), and climbed back up to Wine Spring Bald.  I finally decided to really go for it when I spotted my second patch of yellow lady slipper orchids;  I was cruising down the trail and spotted them  halfway down the hillside.  I took it as a sign that I was totally grooving.  Whenever I am distracted, or if I'm not feeling 100%, I will miss spotting flowers, so seeing them was a good indication that I was fully alert and feeling the "flow" of my hike.

View of lady slippers from trail.

Zoomed-in view from trail

Close up.

The final two miles to Wayah Bald (5350 feet) were the most botanically rich-- hillsides were thick with a diversity of wildflowers.  Again, I stopped to admire and photograph and ohh and ahhh.    The clouds had rolled across some of the mountains when I finally reached the CCC-build tower at Wayah Bald.  But I still had fabulous views in the other directions.  After I had lunch, it hit me that I'd just done 10 miles in four hours-- I was so excited but tried not to think about it.  And I also couldn't believe I'd seen so many flowers-- including three separate patches of yellow lady slipper orchids. 

The return trip seemed more difficult, with the long descent, and then ascent, and then descent roller coaster.  In all, it was 4000 feet total elevation gain-- more than I'd ever done before though it turned out to be gradual.

The most difficult part was when my knee/leg starting hurting on mile 17 during a rough downhill section, and then suddenly, the pain was so bad I had to stop.  I knew I had been going too fast, but I had been enjoying the feeling of trying to push myself.  I haven't experienced pain while hiking like that ever before.  It was scary, so I stopped, took a deep breath, and took inventory.  I realized that I wasn't hungry, which is alarming because I'm ALWAYS hungry while hiking, and for me, this indicates a problem.  Then I noticed I still had two liters of water left, which meant I hadn't been drinking enough.  (During college, I ended up twice in the hospital with an IV for dehydration before I figured out that I was especially prone to dehyration and needed to both eat and drink during prolonged, intense exercise.)  After a snack and adding "emergency" sports drink mixes to my water (which, thankfully, Still Waters had insisted I carry), I became more clear-headed and the pain subsided.

Was 20 miles really any more difficult than the 14 miles I'd limited myself to before I set out my New Years Resolution?  Perhaps not physically, because I'd been training for it, but it was harder mentally because I was more afraid of getting tired or injured.  Once again, the lesson for me is that the most difficult challenge is the mental part of hiking--  trusting myself and having confidence in my abilities.

What's next?  I don't know but right now I feel like I could do absolutely anything.

No ladies on the Ladyslipper Loop Trail, but...

Rosebay rhododendrons in full splendor.

The Ladyslipper Loop Trail at the Lake Russell Recreation Area winds a little over six miles through rolling hills.  This trail is also used by mountain bikers and horses, so it was wide and rutted.  Still Waters and I chose this trail on a day with 70% chance of thunderstorms.  We only had a few sprinkles and the sun stayed out giving us "sun showers."  We never did find any ladyslippers, but the rosebay rhododendrons and mountain laurel put on a show that more than made up for it.

We started beside Nancytown Lake, full of cattails and buzzing with activity.  The trail begins by climbing to a ridge, then descends again, crossing a few streams.  Several intersections were unmarked, and we had to choose between equally used trails and old roads.  Somehow, we always ended up OK, eventually finding a trail sign.  But it was always a bit dicey. 

A few minutes after I said I was ready to stop for lunch, we rock-hopped across a stream.  Pausing, I noticed the sound of rushing water, and was reminded of a recent conversation with waterfall enthusiast Karen.  She said she often finds waterfalls by listening for them.   Curious, we bushwhacked down the hillside and came upon a hidden falls down below the trail.  It was absolutely stunning, framed by thickets of mountain laurel and rosebay rhododendron  heavy with bright pink blossoms. Incredibly, the sun peaked out from behind the stormclouds, lighting up the water and making the flowers twinkle.

Hidden falls near the Ladyslipper Trail.

On the way home, we stopped by David and Katies in Homer, which was recommended to me by Pyro.  For those of you in the area, this Amish market is backpackers paradise-- they've got all sorts of dried veggies (to-die-for dried okra!), dried fruit, tons of powders you won't find anywhere else (like cheese powder and dried buttermilk), dried soup mixes, and spices.  It's all much more affordable than buying expensive pre-packaged meals from REI.  Last time I was there I talked a long time to the owner-- nice guy, and he prides himself on getting local and made-in-the-USA goods.  I highly recommend this place to all of you from Georgia-- I don't usually like to recommend stores or products, but I'm making an exception because this place is so remarkable.  Not to mention they have hand-dipped ice cream-- always the perfect ending to a hike.

Section Hiking the Georgia AT (Part 3: Hightower to Gooch)

This Saturday, I hiked with the Trail Dames 8.2 miles from Hightower to Gooch Gap on the Appalachian Trail.  It was a day to savor being outside in perfect hiking weather.  Nine of us met at Woody Gap on GA 60.  A record four of us were sporting hiking skirts (for those that are skeptical, I've got two words: easy peeing.  Haha!).  Thankfully, two women had brought trucks for the forest service roads, so we hopped in for the ride to Gooch Gap, the end of our hike.  We left one truck at Gooch Gap, and all piled into the other truck, Indra exclaiming that she'd never ridden in the bed of a truck before.  On the bumpy ride along FS 42 to Hightower, we previewed the flame azalea lighting up the forest.

The fabulous AT hikers.  Photo by Sandi.

This was the first AT hike for Sue, Amy and Indra, and by the end, they were already talking about their plans to take on the rest of Georgia.  Sharing the hike with women new to the AT gave the rest of us a wonderful, fresh perspective 

The first few miles took us up and down and up and down, and included the infamous Sassafras Mountain.  Apparently, Sandi and the others totally missed the summit, where we'd agreed to stop to reconvene for lunch, and had to backtrack.  Way to go for blazing right past the mountain, as if the climb were no big deal!  With that, Sandi earned her new Trail Name-- Sassafras (Sassy for short).  It definitely suits her bubbly personality, plus sassafras are way cool plants, with their three different leaf types, not to mention we all love root beer!

At lunch, Salt (Kristen) demonstrated how to setup a hammock, since Sassy (Sandi) was interested in learning about them for backpacking. (Hehe-- we may soon have another convert!). 

After refueling, we set off again, Denise, Sandra, Still Waters, and the others paving the way.  We passed through more diverse forest types with different plant assemblages-- here were foam flower, wood betony, columbine, Indian cucumber, purple meadow parsnip, wild yam.  Butterflies circled around us.  Monarch caterpillars munched on milkweed. 

Monarch caterpillar on milkweed

It was a pleasure hiking with other people who enjoy nature, and who take the time to notice interesting things along the trail.  I loved it when Indra and Sue would stop to point stuff out.  Together, we saw (and sniffed out!) so much-  in full bloom were a profusion of Catesby's trillium, wild geranium, solomon's plume and solomon's seal, mayapple, and flame azelea.

Salt and Sassy in their hiking skirts checking out the flame azalea

Cooper Gap, 3.5 miles into the hike, marked the last section of the AT in GA for me.  It didn't feel like the end of anything though, not just because we still weren't halfway into the hike, but because my experience of the Georgia section of the AT has been a jumping off point for exploring more sections of the AT and other long distance trails.  Plus, I'm hooked on revisiting the same sections of the AT in different seasons.

Finishing my section hike of the GA AT.

Now, let's go hike some more!

The 4.7 miles from Cooper to Gooch Gap had been transformed in the last two months since we hiked it in a very cold rain.  The sun lit up the spring-green new growth, and it was even warm enough to linger at Justice Creek to cool our feet.

The last few miles brought dwarf crested iris in bloom, a few stray jack in the pulpits, yellow wakerobin, canada violet,  wood sorrel, showy orchis (alas already past blooming-- but now I know where it is for the future), two patches of pink lady slipper orchid, and my botanical highlight of the day, a small yellow lady slipper orchid.  At the end of the trip, Sue declared they deserved a Certificate for all the plants they'd learned about!

Yellow lady slipper orchid

By the time the last of us reached Gooch Gap and had a snack, Still Waters and Salt returned from picking up the trucks, and we all headed back to Woody.  It was such a lovely day to enjoy with new and old friends.

Canoeing through the Cypress Swamp

The George Smith State Park in eastern Georgia features a cypress/ tupelo swamp with a network of canoe trails.  Tannins from the trees make the water a rich tea-color and the still surface a mirror.  The Trail Dames camped at the spacious and immaculately clean pioneer campsite.  We rented a pair of canoes, and followed the blazes through the swamp, a bit too close to the nest of an angry osprey.  We watched an elegant water snake glide through the water.

Water snake

There was something extremely meditative about being on the peaceful stillness of water, breathing the clean moist air.  Weaving through the cypress, whose reflection in the glassy water created a tangled optical illusion, I lost all sense of time.

We hiked through the longleaf pine forest, which was so different from the forests in north Georgia.  The trail was hot and sandy, but we saw a few flowers.

Lupine fixes nitrogen and so is well suited to this sandy soil (Lupinus diffusus)

Blue star

azalea

Leaving my kitchen behind

I had another backpacking breakthrough-- I went completely stoveless.  And it worked out great!  I didn't miss the 12 extra ounces in my pack when I was squatting down to get a closer view of wildflowers.  I didn't spend one moment wishing I'd had a stove to fuss with in the wind, or wait for what always seems like f-o-r-e-v-e-r for the water to boil.

Making my meals was simple-  I'd add cold water to any dried food a few hours before I wanted to eat.  On the trail, I pulled out my re-hydrated food and started eating right away.  I relaxed at viewpoints full-bellied and content. What freedom! 

My pot, stove, & fuel weigh 12 ounces.

Simple Standing Indian Stove-less Menu

Quick and easy burritos
    At home, put instant re-fried beans (available in the bulk section of the local food co-op) in a small freezer bag.  Add water to rehydrate and let sit a few hours.  At beautiful wildflower meadow, spread beans on a tortilla, top with shredded string cheese, and add a few slices of bell pepper, cilantro, and a packet of salsa.

Lunch couldn't be easier.

Sushi on the trail
    At home, cook sushi rice according to package instructions.  For each cup of cooked rice, mix together 2 Tbs. rice wine vinegar, 1 Tbs. sugar, and 1/2 tsp salt and heat in microwave until sugar dissolves.  Pour over rice and mix well.  Add sesame seeds (optional).  Spread on dehydrator trays and dehydrate overnight.  Put into freezer bag.  On the trail, add cold water to cover and let sit at least three hours.  I tore up "crispy toasted seaweed" and added it to the rice along with tuna (best with oil-packed) and mixed it all together in the bag.  But if you want to get fancy, you can make little rolls if you have a flat surface (like I did on a recent dayhike) and even add avocado if you want to splurge. 

The sushi rice is done dehydrating when it is totally crispy.

Sushi rice with spicy tofu-jerky (Note: this was taken on a previous dayhike)

Snacks to get you up the mountains
While backpacking, I "eat like a hobbit" (i.e. have first breakfast, second breakfast, lunch, tea-time snack, pre-dinner snack, dinner, and dessert).   I eat snacks every two or two and a half hours.  This gives my body sustained energy and keeps my tummy happy.  I bring an assortment of home-dehydrated fruit such as strawberries, bananas, apples, kiwi, and mandarin oranges.  To add protein, I dip dried bananas in peanut butter, and pair fruit with string cheese, which keeps for days unrefrigerated.

Finger-sandwich of dried apples, string cheese, and tofu-jerky.

Slice fruit thinly and pat dry.  Leave on dehydrator overnight.

Awesome oatmeal
    At home, put into your plastic bag any or all of the following: oats, wheat bran, flax seeds (just a little bit), unsweetened coconut, dried cranberries, dried milk (Nido is best), slivered almonds, cinnamon and cardamom.  Before bed, add water, seal tightly, and hang in bear bag.  In the morning it will be ready, the oats nicely softened and flavors melded together.

Standing Indian Overnight

The Lower Ridge Trail in the Nantahala Wilderness of North Carolina is described by Tim Homan as having more "ferns and herbaceous wildflower species than any other trail under 7 miles" in his whole guidebook to the Southern Nantahala Wilderness.  After I read this, I knew I had to do this trail, and I figured out an overnight backpacking trip that would feature this trail as the grand finale. 

From the Standing Indian Backcountry Information parking area, I started up the 3.7 mile Kimsey Creek Trail towards Deep Gap on the Appalachian Trail (AT).  Not five minutes into the hike, I was already oooing and ahhing and stopping to take photos every few steps.  The stream valley was carpeted in trout lily, hepatica, and spring beauties.

Going up in elevation along a trail like the Kimsey Creek trail allows you to step back in time.  Early spring is in full swing down in the valley-  the forest floor is awash in bright green and the early ephemerals wave their bright heads.

Trout lily and bloodroot at lower elevation.

Climb higher and the same plants are at earlier stages of development with blossoms not yet open.  Higher still, and they are like little wrinkly babies.  The youngest sprouts look strange and at first it's difficult to tell what they will become.  By observing the sequence up the hillside, it's possible in just one morning to see the stages of spring that take place over the course of several weeks at a single location.  The tinniest sprout, the folded-up shoot, the partially open bud, the fully spread bright wildflower-- this whole dramatic series unfolds like in one of a timelapse nature movies, by simply walking up along this trail and back in time from spring to late winter.

Mayapple in its awkward early stage; bloodroot with leaves still clasped around their stalk.

When I reached Deep Gap and the AT, I turned south and began hiking the 6.8 miles to Bly Gap, where I had finished off my section hike last time.  After the spring wonderland of the Kimsey Creek trail, the AT was a brown, windy, cold contrast.  I even found traces of the ice that a thru hiker said fell the previous night.  I put on my mittens and kept moving to stay warm.

Ice at high elevation along the AT

There was a steady stream of thru hikers headed in the other direction on their way to Maine.  I stopped and talked to all the other solo women (not that there were very many!).  I met Weaver from Baltimore.  She was really nice and we admired each other's skirts, and I found out she also is on the Women Hikers Listserv, and is a member of the Maryland Trail Dames.  What a small world!

When I reached the famous oak tree at Bly Gap, I met Splitter, another awesome solo female hiker.  When I asked her how her hike was going, she talked about not fitting in, being between the two big groups of hikers- the college kids and the retirees.  She observed how it seems like everyone our age (i.e. 30's) is married, has a house, and is starting a family, not out on the trail.  It was such a moment of connection for me-- here we were not even talking for five minutes, and we were having a real conversation.  It felt so good to share this frustration of always feeling older or younger than everyone else.  I was also happy to know there are other 30 year olds out there who are hikers and who are choosing our own path, even though we are very few and far between. (Note to my hiking friends: please don't take this to mean that I don't love hiking with all the people who are older than me, or that I don't feel accepted. It's just that sometimes I look around and wonder what is wrong with me that there are very few other people my age.)

I turned around at Bly Gap and headed back north again to look for a place to camp.  Muskrat shelter was crowded so I kept moving to find a quiet place.  Once I arrived at "White Oak Stamp" which was a high level area with dense rhododendron, I wandered around in the woods for a whole hour trying to figure out where to set up my hammock.  The wind was intense and cold, so I needed to find a sheltered place out of the wind and I wanted to be well away from the trail.  That was easier said than done--   the wind swept across ridges and swirled into hollows.  I watched carefully to see how the wind moved across the landscape, and I finally found a spot halfway down the valley, protected by a rhododendron thicket.  I was thankful that I carefully selected my site, because the wind howled fiercely.  I crawled into my sleeping bag even before the sun went down because it was so cold out, but I left my tarp off for a view of my surroundings.  I listened to a good episode of "This American Life" as I watched the tallest trees dancing against the starry-sky, the rhododendrons around me barely stirring.  It was pure bliss to be toasty warm and comfortable in my hammock, breathing the crisp air and feeling my heavily-used muscles relaxing.  I felt so grateful to my friends Kellye and Sweet Pea for introducing me to hammock camping.  I used to toss and turn all night sleeping on the ground, but in my hammock, I sleep soundly.

Hanging in comfort.

The next morning, I got an early start, and watched the sun rise as I hiked towards Standing Indian, the tallest peak in the Nantahala Wilderness. The sun's rays lit up the mountains, and I had incredible views through the bare trees of the surrounding valleys.  One thing I really appreciated was that even though I had never done this section of trail, I knew the mountains and valleys around me from hiking other trails in the area.  I looked down into the Upper Tallulah River valley, and thought about the wonderful swimming holes, butterflies, and rare plants I'd seen hiking the Deep Gap trail.  I love having that sense of perspective.

The view from Standing Indian was breathtaking, and I was delighted to run into Weaver for the second time, and we chatted with some other weekenders who were just waking up and emerging from their tents on the summit.

On Standing Indian, 5499 feet.

I returned down the steep but scenic Lower Ridge Trail.  The wildflowers along the lower half of the trail lived up to the guidebook's description, both in diversity and abundance, and I lingered along the path as I made my way back to my car.

Trillium

Spring beauties

Hillside of wildflowers

On the drive home just before the NC/GA boarder, I stopped at one of the only local dairy's I know about around here, called Spring Ridge Creamery, and got a sweet treat to end the day.  YUM!

Wildflower Heaven

I eagerly anticipate my first visit of the year to the wildflower paradise that is the Pocket of Pigeon Mountain.  I schedule a hike there with the Trail Dames on Sunday, and make a plan to "scout" the hike on Saturday.  It's been a year since I've visited, so want to re-familiarize myself with the route and driving directions so the Dames' hike goes smoothly.  It's also an excuse to spend an extra day watching spring unfold.

On the drive up on Saturday, the rain begins.  From the look of the sky and the weather forecast, this is not a passing storm.  The rain intensifies.  My partner Still Water looks at me and asks if I want to turn around and go back home.  I flash her my starry-eyed grin and say of course not. 

We decide to save the trip to the Pocket until the end of the day, and take a detour over to hike the Keown Falls and Johns Mountain Trail Double Loop.  Water pours from the sky and down rivulets, the streams swell and burst over their banks. I splash through the trail-turned-stream.  Lightening flashes and thunder booms across the valley.  The soaking rain intensifies the colors of the swollen bud tips of the trees, the white of the dogwood blossoms, and the blood red of the sweetshrub. 

Rain drips from unfolding fern fronds and green moss.  Water rushes over Keown Falls, and pours over the rockface in other spots, creating myriad other waterfalls.  And of course there it is-- the most wonderful thing about hiking in rain... TREE FOAM at the bases of trees!!!

In the late afternoon, we head over to the Pocket.  It's still raining like mad.  But I can hardly wait to see what's blooming.  I dart around the boardwalk, flapping my big rainponch and swishing my rainpants in greeting to all the flowers.  Hello bluebells, hello poppies, hello trillium. 

After three visits to the Pocket last year, I have some idea of where to find clusters of the various species, but I am also surprised at how much further along they all are compared to last year.  There are also more trees down, and signs of flooding.  I am astonished at the number of bent trilliums waving their white heads up the hillside.  The rain fills the valley with an air of freshness.  I soak it all in.

On Sunday, I repeat the hikes again with the Trail Dames under an overcast sky.  I am thankful for the break in the rain so that I can take out my camera and because it makes for an easier hike for the Dames, but I am also grateful I got to experience the magic of that early spring rainstorm.