Day 22 and 23. Nero and Zero with my sister

Day 22 and 23. Nero and Zero with my sister

Hidden Lake 1902.4 to Shelter Cove 1906.2 cutoff

4 PCT miles plus spur into Shelter Cove (plus a zero)

7/31 to 8/1/2019

Just a few miles and I am at Shelter Cove Resort. I’ve got enough time to gobble up pancakes with an extra order of scrambled eggs before my sister and niece arrive.

I have two days of non-stop fun with my sister and her family in Eugene. They take me swimming in the local lake (twice!). I thought I'd been having fun with my solo swimming on the PCT, but they definitely raise the bar. We have races across the lake and bucking bronco challenges on their pool toys. Leave it to a 4th grader and a 6th grader to show you what you've been missing in life.

My niece and nephew also teach me moves on their slip-and-slide like the penguin and the superman which will surely improve my hiking game. Haha!

They take me shopping for my resupply. My niece helps me pick out some really good food in the bulk section. She makes all sorts of suggestions on what to get which I honestly find incredibly helpful. I especially love the dried peaches, honey sticks (which I drizzle on tortillas slathered in nut butter), and veggies chips that she picks out. If you are a long distance hiker struggling with food suggestions, I highly recommend asking a 6th grader.

It’s so sweet to get this time to reconnect with my sister and her family. My niece and nephew are such remarkable, wonderful human beings. We haven’t seen each other much these past few years and I think this trip is definitely going to change that!

Day 21. Diamond Peak Wilderness

Day 21. Diamond Peak Wilderness

1880.3 (bit past Windago Gap) to Hidden Lake 1902.4

7/30/2019

22 miles

I turn a corner and realize that Mt. Theilsen is so far away. It never fails to amaze me just how far legs can take you in a few hours.

The mosquitoes are swarming at Summit Lake. I am just about to race by it, trying to outrun them, but then spot a nice sandy beach. Why not go for a swim? The water isn’t too cold and I discover that if I keep my headnet on, I can swim for an extended time, enjoying the incredible view of Diamond Peak and the sparkling blue waters. Both of which I was missing before I stopped. I love having the power to transform a morning of miserable mosquito-racing into a lovely swimming experience.

I set up camp near Hidden Lake. At first I think I will skip a swim because the one earlier in the day was so good. But then I remember that moderation is not my strong suit.

I make it a two swim day!

Tomorrow I get to see my sister and her family. I can hardly wait.

Day 20. Mt Thielsen

Day 20. Mt Thielsen

1852 near Mt Thielsen to 1880.3 (a little past Windago Gap)

7/29/2019

28.3 miles

In the early hours of morning, I hike up and around Mt. Thielsen. What amazing colored rocks like a layered cake! Seeing them makes me wish I had planned time (and enough water) to take the side trail to climb it. But alas I don’t, so all I can do is savor the views.

I feel like my legs could just fly today. My body is getting so much stronger. This trip is good because I’ve given myself enough time to rest when I need to and check my feet every break- I love going at my very own pace and how if I do, I can hike all day. 

I have cell service on a ridge so I call Mags. He’s been guiding in Yosemite and it seems like we haven’t gotten to talk in forever. I know it’s rude to talk on a cell phone out in the wilderness so I try to get as far off trail as I can. But then when I make the call I realize I am totally oblivious to everything as I laugh and get lost in the conversation. I hope I didn’t annoy anyone!

At Windago Gap, there is a guy with a dog who has build a campfire. I’d just learned that there was a wildfire in southern Oregon that had grown 11,000 acres in just two days. Talk about high wildfire danger! So I was going to remind him of the wildfire risk and to be extra careful, but his dog was barking a lot at me and it made me feel super uncomfortable so I just move on and make camp a few miles further.

Day 19. Along the rim

Day 19. Along the rim

7/28

Rim Village to 1852 near Mt Thielsen

9 miles on the rim trail plus 13 PCT miles

22 miles

My friend drops me off back at Rim Village after a restful night at her house. The views along the rim are mesmerizing and I walk as slow as I can, savoring it all. How fortunate it is that we still don't have smoke from fires like they have the last few summers.

After an incredible few miles, the trail drops down to a pleasant forest walk through the Mt. Thielsen Wilderness.

The mosquitoes start to get bad in the evening. Headnet and raingear are key for keeping one’s sanity. 

I find a campsite with a good balance between slightly breezy to keep the mosquitoes down and not too exposed. Just right!

Day 18. Crater Lake

Day 18. Crater Lake

Crater Lake NP boundary (1814.3) to Rim Village

7/27/19

I first saw Crater Lake during a father-daughter road trip when I was on summer break in college. My dad and I stayed in the Crater Lake lodge and sat in the rocking chairs on the porch with an incredible view of the blue waters. 

As I lay in my hammock eating breakfast, I scroll through the photos I dug up of that first trip. Bringing up sweet memories.

My dad and I at Crater Lake in 1996.

On a hike near the lodge, my dad and I traversed a snow field. It was one of the scariest things I’d ever done. My legs quivered as I placed each of my steps carefully in the steps my dad kicked into the snow. But it was also one of my favorite memories because it always reminds me that I can do difficult things if I just focus on one step at a time. And it never hurts to have a good steps to follow!

That memorable hike.

These memories makes me think about the things that can inspire a life-long passion for the outdoors.

***

I’m packed up and hiking well before dawn. There is no way I’m going to miss my park ranger friend’s trolley tour and I want a full day to enjoy Crater Lake.

The first half dozen miles to Mazama Village fly by. I rush to shower and do laundry so I won’t offend the other people on the trolley tour. Then I hike another half dozen or so miles up to the rim with plenty of time to spare.

A ranger program about pikas is happening right when I arrive. I love pika and it’s so neat to learn more about them. Even though the program is for kids, I hover at the edge and try to look like I belong. I watch the game the kids play (that demonstrates the challenges pikas face from climate change) and it seems like one I can adapt for my students back home.

My friend’s trolley tour is incredible and I love playing tourist for a few hours! We ride around the whole lake and get out at several overlooks which all highlight different perspectives and geological features. We learn why the lake is blue and the geological history of how the lake was formed. A cool thing is that it only took 300 years for the lake to fill up! Another highlight is learning that the lake is home the Mazama Newt that is only found here. Later I find out that they are a genetically distinct subspecies that are closely related to the newt I saw a few days ago in the Russian Wilderness.

After the tour, I catch one last ranger program about the geologists that have studied the lake. Watching all these ranger programs makes me so happy! I'm so hungry for natural history information and for a deeper understanding of the beautiful places I'm passing through. 

I also love sitting on the same porch I sat with my dad so many years ago rocking in the rocking chairs I remember so well. I watch kids with their parents and wonder if any of these young people will grow up to hike the PCT because of trips like this one.

After my friend gets off work, she takes me down to the town of Klamath Falls where she lives and we go out to eat. We talk about our time in Montana State Parks Americorps and how the things we learned in that program helped us get our jobs with the NPS. So many memories! What a full day!

Day 17. Through the burn

Day 17. Through the burn

7/26

1792.5 to before the Crater Lake NP boundary (1814.3)

21.8 miles

The ridgewalk in the morning was unexpectedly lovely. I thought it would be lifeless and miserable through the burn, but instead there were loads of butterflies. The geology here is incredible and I wish I knew more. 

Tomorrow I’ll make it to Crater Lake. I’m really excited because my friend is a park ranger there. I haven’t seen her since we were both Americorp members in Montana State Parks, long before we both because NPS park rangers. She texts me that is giving a trolley tour tomorrow afternoon. When I get to a high point, I check for cell phone reception. I have enough bars so I call the reservation office and get tickets for her trolley tour. I sure hope I can make it in time and get in a shower beforehand!

The remainder of the day proves physically and mentally challenging. The mosquitoes are swarming so rest breaks and eating are challenging.

Then there is a hot, long (21 mile) water-less stretch through the burn. It is tough loading up with 4.5 liters of water (since I will have to dry camp too)— I should have trained with a heavy pack before I came out here and now I’m paying the price. I proactively tape my blister spots so my feet don’t suffer too much.

The burn totally scorched everything in a few places- what starkness compared to walking through all the green. 

But finally I get far enough that I think I will make it to Crater Lake in time. So I set up camp for the evening.

Laying in my hammock, I realize I am now more dirty than I have been in years- the sweat made all the dust stick. Normally, I wash off at a stream (LNT style- I carry the water away from the stream in a ziplock), but the darn mosquitoes made washing up impossible. Near any stream the mosquitoes were so bad I had to wear my raincoat, rainpants, and headnet- talk about sweaty!

But despite all the mosquitoes, soreness, and dust, I love being out here and would not trade this experience for anything else. There is satisfaction in pushing through the difficulties and finding the joy amid the pain.

Day 16. Mosquitoes attack

Day 16. Mosquitoes attack

7/25

1767.5 to 1792.5

25 miles

My hammock sure gives me the best sleep! My eyes open right at 5:30 on the dot, just like every morning. No alarm needed. I wake up so excited because I get to hike today! Just like yesterday, just like tomorrow. Yay!

It turns out that today is full of lava rock awesomeness with views of Mount McLoughlin. And I feel so good and totally happy. Life couldn’t get any better.

At Christi Spring I meet two gentlemen who introduce themselves as Wizard and Wild Turtle. We take a break together and they talk about elk and bear hunting and I love their cheerful attitudes.

In the afternoon, MOSQUITOES ATTACK! Walking with a headnet is fine, but oh my hands- they bite right through my sungloves, the shoulders of my shirt, and swarm my knees. The last mile I resort to putting on my raincoat and pants. Of course it is uphill and hot. So I am a sweaty sauna. But I am protected so I can slow down and look for trees for my hammock.

I rush to put up hammock and retreat ASAP even though it is still sunny. They can't get me in my little cocoon. 

Day 15. Something new.. lava!

Day 15. Something new.. lava!

7/24/ 2019

1744.1 to near Fish Lake 1767.5

23.4 miles

I wake up grateful for a clear sky (still no smoke or wildfires) and for another day of doing my favorite thing all day (hiking!). I love the rhythm of walking, getting water, drinking, eating, resting.. and repeating. 

There are delicate white monkshood flowers (as well as the usual blue variety) around the spring I stop at in the morning. I’ve only ever seen blue monkshood and it makes me wonder who the pollinators are and if they are different for the various flower color morphs. So I sit and take a break. Watching. Hoping to make some pollinator observations. And appreciate that I can just sit and look. What a life this is!

Late in the afternoon, I take the turnoff for the South Brown Mountain Shelter. The directions for the water pump say it needs two people (or three) — one to work the pump and another to catch the water. I try a few times to work the pump, but I don’t have the strength. Or maybe I could muster the strength, but I worry about straining that hard since I got the hernia last year. It just doesn’t seem worth the risk.  So I lay down and watch the sky and listen to the hum of the flies and mosquitoes for an hour until another hiker arrives. Luckily, it is a strong guy and we get our bottles filled in no time!

Further down the trail, a dayhiker strikes up a conversation and asks what I think about all day. Does the mind ever quiet? I have to think for a while. I realize that the mind does get still sometimes. Especially after many miles. Mostly I think about my surroundings- the plants, the smell of the air, the butterflies, the rocks, the views. Other time, I think about how much I love hiking and the PCT. My heart feels so full of joy when I'm out here. Sometimes, I wonder I will ever have another love in my life as deep as this love for the trail.

In the evening, I get to something new-- lava rocks! The trail through the lava is incredibly smooth. It makes me wonder who build this marvelous trail. 

I find some trees down a slope past the lava. Then mosquitoes find me. Its the first night I hurry to retreat into my hammock and zipper the bugnet secure. I fall asleep to the sound of their buzzing.

Day 14. Hyatt Reservoir

Day 14. Hyatt Reservoir

7/23/2019

From Ashland (1717.7) to Hyatt Reservoir (1744.1)

26.5 miles

We get a ride from Ashland back to the PCT with a trail angel who is knowledgable about the local natural history. I ask her about tree diversity here and she says one cool thing is that have both ponderosa and Jeffrey pine. They can be told apart by whether the cones have spines- prickly ponderosa, gentle Jeffrey pine. 

My body has so much energy after a breakfast of cheesy microwave eggs and waffles and a day and a half of rest. I love feeling the rhythm of walking and simply hiking for hiking’s sake.

Hydaspe Fritillary (Speyeria hydaspe)

I didn't see any other PCT hikers except B. all day. We had planned to camp together but I messed up and thought there was water at the Hyatt campground and there wasn’t, so I had to go back and then I couldn’t find him. Oh well.

I find some well-spaced trees for my hammock with a partial view of the sunset over the reservoir. I sure do love seeing the sunset and sunrise every single day out here.

Day 12 and 13. Into Ashland

Day 12 and 13. Into Ashland

1703.8 to Ashland (1717.7)

14 miles

7/21 and 7/22 (Zero)

During the night I wake up to a car screeching down the road. My watch shows it is after midnight. Who drives at this time? Who is even awake at such an hour? I fall back asleep immediately and wake feeling totally refreshed. I really appreciate how the body can be so transformed each night. Aches and soreness all gone.

I start with a climb through meadows of wildflowers and feel so strong! It is good to be back to my old, solid stride. The pure joy of hiking like everything is going right! It has been a while since I have felt this strong- it feels awesome.

There are more locals out hiking the closer I get to the road. I strike up a conversation with a woman holding a pack of blueberries. She ends up telling me stories of her work helping refuges, stories I can tell she needs to talk through, so I stay and really listen. For almost an hour! (Thankfully, she shares her blueberries with me since my stomach starts growling in anticipation of town food.)  Real trail magic are these unexpected connections, the sweetness of passion for one’s work, and sharing of experiences.

White bog-orchid (Platanthera dilatata)

I’d been anticipating a relaxing stay at Callahans, but I hear through the trail grapevine that there is a wedding there. Way too crowded for me. But just as I am trying to figure out what to do, I see B. waiting outside, almost as if he is expecting me. He asks if I want to split a room in Ashland! Perfect, of course! I love how things just work out.

Ashland is awesome. Everything is in walking distance- laundry, stores, and we even get pizza delivered. 

I hadn’t planned to take a zero in Ashland. But I changed my mind as I was sitting down and my feet started throbbing. They were definitely telling me I need more rest. It turns out to be a great zero day. Get to hang out with Jazzy, B., K., and N. Rest isn’t easy but it sure will help me in the long run.

Phantom orchid

A great thing about extra time in town is I get to read all about the butterflies, plants, and trees I’ve identified with the iNaturalist app. One of my favorites is the phantom orchid (Cephalanthera austiniae). It is completely white, without an photosynthetic leaves, and gets all its energy through associations with a single family of mycorrhizal fungus which in turn get the energy from trees. So neat!

Day 11. Cascade-Siskiyou National Monument

Day 11. Cascade-Siskiyou National Monument

Alex Hole Spring (1683.3) to 1703.8

7/20/2019

20.5 miles

Today I crossed the Oregon border! I’m beyond joyful, not because this means I’ve completed the arbitrary goal of hiking the whole PCT in California. But because this means I’m entering the state where I was born and grew up.

It makes me think about what it means to be a native Oregonian. Even though I only lived there the first dozen or so years of my life. But still, the reason I’m hiking the PCT is because Oregon is my home. It’s the reason I love big trees and the cascade mountains so much. 

I stop and talk to another hiker and ask if he wants a picture at the border. He is having a completely different reaction than me, expressing his regret about skipping the Sierra. It’s hard to see someone out here that is so unhappy with where they are. The whole reason he says he is hiking the PCT is to see the Sierra. He says at the next town he will try and hitch out so he can skip down. 

Beyond the sign saying that I am entering the Cascade- Siskiyou National Monument, I stop to talk to a dayhiker about the wildflowers. She is a local and tells me that the Cascade–Siskiyou National Monument is the first monument set aside for biodiversity. Hers is such a different story about the monument than I heard at Seiad Valley that at first I don’t realize its the same monument.

Today I’m very sore after yesterdays higher mileage day. I take extra breaks and end the day early. 

I set up camp at the junction of a bunch of roads. Perhaps I’ll regret where I am set up, but I want to take it easy today.

Day 10. Climb out of Seiad Valley

Day 10. Climb out of Seiad Valley

Seiad Valley (1656) to Alex Hole Spring (1683.3)

7/19/19

27 miles

The roadwalk is shady and cool in the early morning. I love the sound of the water echoing in a canyon. And the waterfall is the perfect size to stand under to cool off.

At this lower elevation, there are a whole bunch of new butterflies including wood nymphs which have this elegant, darting flight. One stays still for a split second and I snap a photo. Later, my friend identifies it as a Great Basin Wood Nymph, the first one I've ever found.

I sort of feel bad about not taking the official PCT. But then I remind myself to think about my own goals. This hike is just for me, right? Making lists always seem to help when I start to doubt myself.

Joan’s 2019 PCT Goals:

    1. Be joyful. 

    2. Chase butterflies. 

    3. Enjoy swimming. 

It makes me happy to realize that my goals are in alignment with my choice to follow the waterfall route.  It is not important to me to walk every official mile of PCT, though I do try for continuous steps along my route. But I'm OK to walk a different path if it will get me more swimming and more butterflies!

The day heats up as I climb. It's hot through the burn. I hide in the shade of my umbrella.

There is a sweet view from Alex Hole Spring but also fierce wind swirling about. I end up camping tucked in some sheltered trees. Feeling safe and content.

Day 9. Into Seiad Valley

Day 9. Into Seiad Valley

Grinder Creek (1646.8) to Seiad Valley (1656)

9.2 miles 

As I walk into town, I see a bunch of “No Monument” signs. They remind me of the signs back in southeast Utah opposing Bears Ears National Monument. I am curious to know what monument they are against and if the conflicts have parallels to the ones we have back home.

I get to town before 10 and get my chores done before the heat of the day. It ends up getting above 100!

At the RV park where I am staying, I listen to some of the locals talk about why they oppose the Cascade-Siskyou National Monument. I decide not to mention the fact that I work for the National Park Service. 

Most residents of the RV park are retired except one family with two small kids. It’s so awesome to be around kids and I’m even more excited when I find out that that the older boy is into dinosaurs! Now there is a topic that I love to talk about! I spend a few happy minutes discussing how awesome dinosaurs are until his mom whisks him away. Ah, I miss talking about dinosaurs with my students back home.

There are only a few hikers staying at the RV park and we sit in the shade and try not to melt in the heat. I love how there are some hikers who you can instantly feel as comfortable as old friends with. I meet B. who shares a love for Big Bend National Park with me and has hiked the AT. I meet up again with N., who I’d met a few days earlier, and her husband S. It’s so wonderful to sit and talk to people who are so positive!

On this section hike, I haven’t hiked or camped with anyone. This hike is one I want to do solo. But it sure is nice to have instant and easy camaraderie in town. 

There is much discussion about the roadwalk out of Seiad Valley that avoids the overgrown, poison oak-infested section of the PCT. I’d been thinking I’d risk the chance of getting poison oak so I could stay on the official route. But then B. and S. tell me the critical bit of information that I’d been missing— the roadwalk has a great swimming hole and a waterfall! That makes the choice easy! 

It's still warm even at 8 PM when I finally set up my hammock in the back of RV park. I drift into a deep sleep and dream about refreshing swimming holes.

Day 8. Descent to Grinder Creek

Day 8. Descent to Grinder Creek

7/17/19

Shadow Lake (1620.8) to Grinder Creek (1646.8)

26 miles

More gorgeous views through the Marble Mountains with only a few patches of snow.

The long descent is brushy but thankful a trail crew has freshly cleared a huge number downed trees. I feel so fortunate to have reached this section when I do.

Two guys that leapfrog with me the whole day see two bears in the thick, berry-filled brush. But they must have scared them off since I don't see the bears. Only berries.

The last bit of trail has poison oak patches which I am careful to avoid. Plus this is where I am glad I’ve got my tall gaiters for added protection.

The Grinder Creek canyon has suffered a recent burn. It takes me a few miles after I want to stop to find live trees for my hammock. The tent campers have to go even further to find a flat spot. But I finally do find a lovely grove of trees near the creek. There is even a little sandy beach where I relax and soak my weary feet. 

I’m just nine miles from town so hopefully I can get to the cafe in Seiad Valley before it closes!