PCT training: Brasstown Bald

I’ve stood on the summit of Brasstown Bald (highest point in Georgia) many times before, but had never seen it like this- a cloud inversion made the surrounding mountain peaks look like islands in a white ocean.  So often, climbing a mountain on a rainy day brings you into a thick fog where you can’t see anything.  This was different- the mountaintops were clear, the valleys obscured.

Valley filled with clouds and rolling fog.  Stunning!

Missing links
I ended up on Brasstown Bald this weekend for a few reasons. The first is that I enjoy imagining the connections between mountaintops and rivers, and I find it satisfying to know I’ve walked the trails traversing the landscapes of the north Georgia mountains.  I’d previously done most of the Jacks Knob Trail, which connects the Appalachian Trail at Chattahoochee Gap with Brasstown Bald.  But there was a 1 mile part I’d missed.  Enough incentive for me.

On top of Brasstown Bald, I could see the routes of the other two trails that descent from Brasstown Bald (the Wagon Train Trail and the Arkaquah Trail) and out in the distance was also the top of Blood Mountain (on the AT) poking up out of the clouds.  By completing this little section of trail, I got another piece in my mental map of the north Georgia mountains filled in.

View from summit of Brasstown Bald.

More PCT training
I was also out getting practicing carrying extra water and food weight over significant elevation change for my PCT training.  Up to 30 lbs now- my legs are game for anything, but my poor feet need extra time to build strength.  I walk daily with my pack around my neighborhood, but that's nothing like climbing up and down several thousand feet (which I did by doing an out and back on the Jacks Knob Trail and most of the Arkaquah Trail).

Lots of rain, fog, and tree foam at lower elevation.

Looking for salamanders
During the hike, I took a detour to one of my favorite places to find salamanders.  I’ve had salamanders on my mind lately.  Natural history is often what gives my hikes meaning, and finding salamanders (or plants or tree foam, etc.) is what I do, part of my identity.  As a weekend backpacker, I reference guidebooks that contain natural history, many of my trips are motivated by seeking out particular plants, and finding plants or salamanders never fails to cheer me up when I’m having a rough day on the trail.

A salamander friend.

It’s hard for me to imagine how this will fit in with the thru-hiker mentality that I think I will need for the PCT.  Where the priority is light, fast, efficient.  Where I will have limited battery power and internet access.  Where my priorities may be different.

A few nights ago, I was flipping through my copy of the Wilderness Press Guide Pacific Crest Trail: Oregon and Washington, pondering maps and guidebooks.  I got this book years ago- it's heavy and outdated, but I love reading the information on the geology and natural history of the PCT.  Naturally, this salamander reference caught me eye and I started daydreaming about more salamander detours:

From the Wilderness Press Guide.

Most maps and databooks of the PCT (i.e. the ones I plan to bring) do not contain this type of information.  Do I try to bring guidebooks (or their pdf's) that do have natural history info?  Could this at least be justified when it helps me infer suitable habitat for hammock campsites?  Will I be happy being immersed in the natural splendor of the PCT and not having access to information, or even something as basic as a way to ID plants?

I know my priorities when I do my weekend trips- but it is hard to imagine how these will change on a long-distance hike.  I read a lot about how people's gear and food preferences change over the course of a long-distance hike, but what about more fundamental values?  Will I find other sources of meaning or inspiration?  My enthusiasm for nature runs deep.  A childhood spent climbing trees, turning over rocks in streams, swinging from rope swings.  Will I ever grown tired of these things?

As with much of this PCT planning, I guess I'll just have to keep an open mind and find out next year.  This is all part of the adventure of attempting something new.

Backpacking solo

When Still Waters first asked me to help her with her first solo backpacking experience, I was eager to share what I’ve learned the last 3 years going solo.  But there are also risks to backpacking by yourself.  So we came up with a plan to do a two night trip- we’d backpack together the first night, and then the second night we’d each go solo on the same trail, and meet back up again afterwards.  She’d have a chance to double check her gear on the first night (as the temps got down into the 20’s- burr!) before her first night out on her own.

Still Water, Solo Backpacker.

First night: comfortable into the 20's 
We set off on the Chattooga Cliffs Trail in North Carolina from the Bull Pen Bridge Trailhead (10.2 miles total out and back).  This trail was really beautiful back in July, though I’d recalled it was also technically challenging- several rock scrambles and butt-scoots.  As part of my preparations for the PCT, I was carrying a bear canister for the first time with enough food for several days.   And if that wasn’t enough, the trail was icy so those were ice-encrusted rock scrambles, with the extra 10 lbs in my pack.  This was NOT something I’d do solo, but it was a good challenge with Still Waters.  One of the important things about choosing to go solo is deciding when to take risks and when to play it safe.  When I go solo, I know where my limits are and where I can push things.

Icy and challenging Chattooga Cliffs Trail.

It was great practice carrying the bear canister, seeing how well it fit in my pack, and opening it in the cold with this method.

Selecting a solo campsite
We talked a lot the first night about differences between backpacking with a friend and going solo.  For me the biggest difference is in choosing a campsite.  When we camp with a group, campsite selection is often dictated by space or aesthetics, and is restricted (usually) to established sites.  Going solo, I camp far from trailheads, and I make make myself either highly visible or highly invisible.  If I use an established campsite, if anyone is camped nearby, I’ll be assertive and talk to the other campers and see if I get a good feeling, all before I set up.  Otherwise, I stealth camp.  On our first night, we camped at a stealth site that is typical for me when I go solo- we “went high", halfway up the hillside where it is warmer, and hidden from view of the trail.

The Chattooga is gorgeous, but we didn't camp near it cause it would have been even more cold down along it's banks.

Why go solo?
Everyone has their own motivation for going solo. Still Waters was interested in having a quiet, peaceful experience.  I went solo backpacking at first because I wanted the confidence boost and because I though it would prepare me for a thru hike, but then because I found it made me a more competent backpacker. It allowed me to do more miles than I would with friends or groups.  As I experimented with pace, nutrition, and techniques, my backpacking skills improved by leaps and bounds as I learned to listen to my body and develop my own style that was in tune with what worked for me.  Things I hadn’t learned when surrounded by other people when decisions are made for the benefit of the group.  Guess the important thing is to keep in mind why you want to go solo.

Second night: going solo
The next morning, Still Waters dropped me off at the Bad Creek Trail, which led to the start of my Chattooga River Trail thru hike, while she set off on her solo from the Nicholson Ford Trailhead.  I’ve section hiked the entire Chattooga River Trail multiple times, but this was my first time going in one continuous trip- 40.5 miles in 2 days.  With the bear canister.  With another 20-degree night.  I’m not gonna lie- this trip reminded me about the best and worst of hiking solo.  I hit a low point on the last day when I could tell I was pushing too fast.  My feet were not used to carrying that much weight.  I knew I needed take a break and not get so *freaking obsessed* with my miles per hour, and also not to worry so much about how many extra minutes it took me to get packed up in the morning fumbling around with my gloves on.  When I’m solo, I see more clearly how I can be my own worst enemy.  

At low points, it always helps to take dorky self-portraits, get email messages from friends, and write to-do lists.

But then, soloing has it’s high points too.  One neat thing was seeing a bear as I hiked the last mile to my car in the dusk/dark.  This was cool because not only wasn’t I scared of the bear like I used to be, but it was actually enjoyable seeing this wild creature- yay!  I’ve seen enough bears now that I know what to expect from the bears around here.  The other thing I like about going solo is that it makes me feel like I can take on anything I set my mind to.  For example, I DIDN'T GET COLD HANDS despite the temps dipping into the 20’s. I also felt like I was in good shape, doing these back to back 20 mile days carrying extra weight with really short hours of daylight.  So, happy overall.

After the trip, I met up with Still Waters to hear about her successful solo night on the trail.  She’d found an awesome stealth site and stayed warm.  Way to go Still Waters!  Hope you have many safe and enjoyable nights out on the trail!

Here are some other tIps for going solo that we discussed:

-When first going solo, start small.  I’d go to places where I was very comfortable- state parks where I could sign in at the park office, or the Appalachian Trail where there is a trail culture that I trust.  Start with solo day hikes. 

-Take care of yourself- this is your number one priority- don’t mess around.  Listen to your body, adjust your pace, and be mindful.

-Be aware.  Pay attention to everyone you see on the trail.  Listen to your gut.   Know your strengths and be prepared.  I also took wilderness first aid and self-defense courses. 

-Enjoy yourself.  Do exactly what you want, when you want.  Linger at waterfalls.  Go swimming.  Take a nap.  Eat dinner at 3 PM.  Savor every moment.  Remember the distinction between being alone and being lonely.

Giving my feet a break and having an early dinner (dehydrated roasted veggies & sweet potato soup).

-Create a safety net.  I tell two people where I'm going, where I'm parking, and when I’ll be back.  I stick to the plan.  I carry a cell phone and a SPOT.  I check back in after I return, so my friends always expect my follow up text.   My friends also have gotten in the habit of sending me foul weather alerts (thunderstorms, ice storms), and this has proved VERY helpful several times.

-Know where you can get cell signal.  I don’t normally advocate relying on cell phones in the backcountry, but I have found it very helpful to know the locations of cell service on various ridges or gaps on some of my favorite trails.  Where reception is faint, text messages are more reliable than calling or email.

-Don’t get lost.  Until I was very comfortable going solo, I’d stick to routes I knew.  I always pay constant attention to my location and where I am going.  I take extra time at all trail junctions, I backtrack if I have any doubt, I take photos of signs and trail junctions (with time stamps so I keep track of my pace so I can calculate expected travel times to various places).  I bring multiple maps and trail guides.  I research my trips throughougly, calling the local ranger station a few days before, reading blogs, forums, and websites.  I have backup plans and I know alternate routes.

-Bring music or podcasts to listen to before you go to sleep.  Or bring earplugs.  Helps keep away the sounds of night-time monsters.  This doesn't creep me out anymore (much) but it used to.

-Take advantage of the extra time and freedom to cultivate your backpacking skills.  For example, spending extra time exploring when looking for campsites has provided me with a better understanding of  how the wind moves over gaps and ridges and which plant communities are found on warmer vs. wetter slopes.  I also spend more time taking photos and looking at plants when I’m by myself- all things I enjoy.

Gentians still blooming on Thanksgiving weekend.

Read more on solo backpacking:

From Roam the Woods- more great tips for solo backpacking

The Girl Who Goes Alone, by Elizabeth Austen- this piece is awesome and inspiring and tells it like it is!!!   (another link to the full poem here)

Article about solo paddling that touches on many issues about safety.

Thankful

After deciding to attempt to hike the PCT next year, one of the most incredible things has been getting help and advice from some truly wonderful people.  I've learned a huge amount and continue to be amazed by how willing people are to share their knowledge.  Friends, family, hiking buddies, and the internet hiking community- you all sure makes my life feel much richer.  I had no idea I'd get this level of support.  So this Thanksgiving, I just want to tell you all that I'm so thankful for you.  <hugs>

For example...

How will I recharge my iPhone for my upcoming PCT trip?  I plan to use the phone as camera and GPS (in conjunction with paper maps) to save weight.  But as a weekend backpacker who has always used paper maps and a separate camera on the trail, I felt like I had a lot to learn.

Several knowledgeable friends have been helping me out.  They shared which batteries or solar chargers that they use and the pros and cons of different systems.  Leave it to an electrical engineer to give me this answer:

Ask the time of day, learn to build a clock. Special thanks to Peter for this one.

This shows why charging the iPhone battery when it gets down to about 20% and bring it up to 80% to saves about 10% overall.   Gadgets and gear come and go, but if you understand the science- basics of electricity in this case- then you can go a lot further.  I'm so thankful when people are patient with me and take the time to share this level of detail.

Learning to use the iphone as a GPS, with a lot of help.

Trying out the new iphone photo app and HDR functions recommended by another friend.

BIG THANKS EVERYONE AND HAPPY THANKSGIVING!

Congaree National Park

Congaree National Park in South Carolina has the largest remaining old growth bottomland forest remaining in the country.  The trees get so big because the area floods several times a year, bringing in nutrients, and the result is the high concentration of “champion” trees.  I visited the park for the first time this weekend on an overnight backpacking trip with my friend Susan.  We loved the impressively tall trees, gorgeous bald cypress and tupelo floodplains, and the fun off-trail opportunities.  It was remarkably different, though no less spectacular, than my other favorite spot to see big trees, Joyce Kilmer Memorial Forest in North Carolina.

Tupulo and bald cypress.

Craning our necks to take in the impressive height of the trees.

After obtaining our backcountry permit, we purchased John Cely's map of the Congaree at the visitor’s center.  This map is an exceptional hand-drawn map with exquisite detail not only of the trails and the water features, but also the large trees, forest types, muck, and old roads.  A highly knowledgeable ranger showed us where to find the famous big trees in the park- some can be seen from the boardwalk and established trails, but we were surprised when ranger encouraged us to go off trail to find some more remote ones as well.  The trip became a fun bushwhacking treasure hunt!!

Cely's map with the park ranger’s color-coded annotations was priceless for exploring Congaree.

We set out to find the Harry Hampton Cypress tree, leaving the established trails to follow our map and compass.  We felt like explorers in this pristine forest. (Is this what the country looked like back in the days of John Muir or William Bartram?)  There were enough water features and fallen giants to navigate around to make it challenging, and because old growth forest is more open, it was (relatively) easy walking (compared to more mountainous areas of the southeast).  We log-walked, waded through, and leaped over “guts” (the local term for small creeks), and squished through the muck.  The rewards were solitude and the feeling of utter exhilaration at successfully arriving at our intended destinations.  After the freedom of bushwacking, it’s always a bit sad to go back to established trails.

Harry Hampton Cypress tree with 7 foot tall “knee”

After locating a few giant trees, we set our compass bearing for the Congaree River with the intention of camping along its banks.  It took us longer than we anticipated to get through some of the deeper guts.  We also spent time watching the wild pigs rooting around- fascinating to see how strong they were as they dug up the ground, leaving a wake of destruction across the forest floor.

No wet feet for us!

 As it started getting dark, we kept on bushwacking in the fading light.  We were encouraged by subtle changes in flora that indicated we were getting close to the river-  more pawpaw, a few patches of privet, a few more tangles of vines.  I kept straining my eyes ahead to see if I could spot an opening in the canopy to signal our proximity to the river.  (And I pulled opened up my new iphone and used the Gaia GPS mapping app to check our location- something new for me for my PCT plan).  And, finally, there it was, the glimmer of setting sun sparkling off the Congaree River. 

A few rain sprinkles didn’t amount to much and it was warm enough to sit out in the dark- incredibly lucky for November.  We listened to crickets and owls, and watched the glowworms for several hours after the sun went down.  The temperatures plummeted overnight but at least it cleared up for a view of the moon.

Sunrise over the Congaree River

Fall was an ideal time to visit the park because there were no mosquitoes and and the colors were gorgeous.  There were a few asters blooming and a lone lady's tresses (sorry photo didn’t turn out- please bear with me as I learn to use the camera on my iphone).

While two days allowed us to do many of the trails, Congaree is definitely a place I'd love to explore more in the future and it'd be great to go back with a canoe or kayak.

Beech providing some lovely fall color.

Trip Details
-We hiked the 2.5 mile boardwalk, Oakridge Trail (some of the largest trees were here), and Kingsnake Trails (lots of solitude).  These established trails are highly recommended, adequately blazed and signed at all junctions.  Bushwhacking was even more fun, but be sure to be come prepared with compass, navigational skills, and gaiters. 

-If you go, call ahead because several times a year the area floods so trails can be underwater or muddy. 

-Get a free permit for backcountry camping and stop by the visitor’s center to buy John Cely’s detailed map (note it is not waterproof so bring a large ziplock to keep it dry).

**Special thanks to some of the Nature Ramblers for recommending Congaree to me and for the tip about John Cely’s Map***

PCT training: Bartram in the rain

Cold and wet but still smiling at Rabun Bald.

The first thing on my to-do list to prepare of the PCT is to get in the best shape of my life.  Building strength and endurance slowly prevents injury.  Plus, exercise relaxes me so I don’t get overwhelmed by all the things I want to do to make the leap from weekend-backpacker to long-distance backpacker.  

Starting with my physical preparation reminds me how far I’ve come these last four years since I started backpacking.  Which also helps me feel more confident in my abilities.  I’ve doubled my previous maximum daily mileage of only 14 miles, and am comfortable with over 20 mile days with a full pack.  This progress was in part due to training, but much of it was due to nutrition and technique.  After I was diagnosed with hypoglycemia, I completely changed my diet, and after much work (i.e. using a glucometer to measure my blood sugars while backpacking), I credit much of my ability to hike longer distances to a diet that keeps me properly fueled.  Likewise, I have worked hard on my form after I had an over-use injury to my knee, ended up going to a physical therapist who taught me about body mechanics and the importance of alignment for avoiding injury.  These experiences showed me that learning to hike smarter is just as important as putting in the physical work.  I'll continue to look for ways to improve my technique.

This weekend’s solo training backpacking trip
I went to Warwoman Dell for a solo backpacking overnight on the Bartram Trail out and back to Rabun Bald, 2nd highest peak in Georgia.  28 miles round trip, averaging a steady 2.8 miles per hour even including all my stopping to look at tree foam, make adjustments to my umbrella, and learning how to use my iPhone as a GPS.  The weather cooperated with non-stop rain and cold, perfect for testing my not-dying-of-hypothermia skills.  To make it more challenging, I got a late start to get in some morning trapeze practice, and also loaded up my pack with 10 more pounds of extra food and water, and could tell I’ve been getting soft with my lightweight pack.  Guess that’s the end of my lightweight pack days- from now on, I’m going to keep adding that extra 10 lbs to my base weight so carrying 5-7 days of food doesn’t come as a shock!  Hopefully this, in addition to my morning daily runs and trapeze/silks "cross-training", will help me get into shape for the PCT.  

Training plan for the next 5 months
In addition to the weekly backpacking trips, I'm also arranging some trips to work on particular skills (i.e. carrying a bear canister for a week on the BMT, snow skills course in Colorado, backpacking in arid conditions in Arizona).  My other goal is not getting injured, so I’m building in rest and being careful to listening to my body.  I started to keep a training log spreadsheet to keep me motivated- especially on these cold dark rainy mornings when it’s not quite as tempting to get out of bed.

Camped in the coldest, windiest spot I could find.  And still cozy warm.

Foothills Trail: Around Whitewater Falls

My friend Still Waters joined me for a few hours at the start of my weekend backpacking trip.  From the Bad Creek Parking area for the Foothills Trail in South Carolina, we rambled along side trails to the big trees at Coons Branch Natural Area, and then out to Upper as well as Lower Whitewater Falls.

Tree hugger at the pocket of virgin forest at Coons Branch Natural Area.

I was bubbling with excitement about my plan for the PCT.   I’ve been working on my gear list, sewing some new gear, increasing the intensity of my workouts, and was full of ideas.  I talked poor Still Water’s ear off, but she said she was glad to see me out of my rut and back to my usual joyful self again.  

Look at the awesome new convertible mittens/ gloves that I constructed (0.5 oz less than the old gloves plus they cover my wrists and have two layers of fleece!!!!).

... and here are my new tarp skins made out of an old pair of tights!

Still Waters.

After Still Waters headed back home, I set out on the Foothills Trail towards the Thompson River and Hilliard Falls, which were both running really low. What a contrast to when I’d seen them flowing strong back in January!   

Leaves were at least a foot deep in spots, and I laughed to myself about "postholing" through the leaves. 

In fading light (hello daylight savings time), I scampered up a hillside to find a stealth campsite.   Setting up my tarp (and especially taking it down) was much faster with the new tarp skins.  I'll likely make another set with a lighter-weight material, though I rather like how the orange and black striped fabric contrasts with the real-tree camo print of the tarp. 

Packing the tarp into the new skins.

The next morning, I backtracked to Upper Whitewater Falls (even though I did the whitewater corridor the previous day, it’s worth repeating that section), and then continued on to SC 281, before turning around and heading back to my car at Bad Creek. 

Gorgeous fall foliage at Upper Whitewater Falls.

It’s strange to think about doing a continuous hike, rather than my usual out and backs (this trip involving out and back and out and backs too- another favorite!).  I always marvel at how much more I notice going the opposite direction, how different the trail looks in different light, how much easier the trail is going uphill rather than downhill (especially in thick wet leaves). What is it going to be like seeing new terrain every single day!?!?  Guess I'll find out...

Shakedown #1: Gear Angst

My friend Renee/ Pathfinder (that you might remember from previous trips here and here and here) just completed her successful thru hike of the Appalachian Trail this year (congrats, Renee!!!!), and came down to visit because she is planning to hike the Pacific Crest Trail in 2014 as well.  We went on a two night backpacking trip up at the Standing Indian Loop in NC.  This was our first shakedown trip for the PCT, and new gear items filled our new packs.  Oh the new gear angst...

Gear angst =  a trunk filled with 4 shelters and 3 packs for 2 people ("just in case” the new ones don’t work)

We've both been researching and getting advice about gear changes we'll need to make for the PCT.   For me the hardest thing is knowing how many years of trial and error it's taken me to feel so well-adapted to the conditions here in the southeast, and knowing how different the conditions out on the PCT are.  I worry that the ways I've found to lighten my pack (like not bringing things like a stove or campshoes) won't work as well for me when I'm on the PCT.  Fortunately, we calmed down a bit once we got on the trail- always relaxing to get out into the woods where we're both in our element. 

Pathfinder enjoying the Kimsey Creek Trail.

We camped our first night a short ways from Standing Indian shelter.   Our new Gossamer Gear Mariposa packs had felt great (we both had matching packs!).  Temperatures dipped into the 30's and the new tent and new DIY top quilt functioned flawlessly.  Gear angst significantly decreased, and goofiness, grinning, and giddiness prevailed.

Nice tight pitch on that Tarptent Notch!

New DIY top quilt can also be used as stylish evening stole.

New Gossamer Gear Mariposa Pack

Obviously, the problem with a shakedown hike on the AT is that it doesn't test our gear under the conditions we will face on the PCT.  To get a closer approximation, on the second night we purposefully camped at the windiest, coldest place around, the summit of Albert Mountain.  Somewhere we NEVER would have chosen under normal circumstances.  Though the winds howled all night and the shelters got soaked from being in a cloud, there was a sense of supreme triumph that we stayed warm once again! 

Albert Mountain.

I know I say after every trip I do with Pathfinder, but the best part about the weekend was how much fun it is to hike with her.  It's incredible to hike with someone who has such similar priorities while backpacking, is as exuberant as I am about being on the trail, and who can have lengthy conversations about hiking philosophy, the mental aspects of hiking, endurance, and technique-- some of my favorite topics and which I think are critical for the PCT (more on these in future posts). 

Overall, this trip was a great way to kick off the PCT planning!

Ice cream at Spring Ridge Creamery.

Trail Info:

The Standing Indian Loop starts at the Backcountry Information Sign, climbs up the Kimsey Creek Trail, goes north on the Appalachian Trail, and then follows the Long Branch Trail back to the trailhead.  Here is a link to when I did this loop in the summer. 

Disclaimer:

I am a Trail Ambassador for Gossamer Gear, a manufacturer of ultralight backpacking gear.  Gossamer Gear may provided me with this Mariposa backpack to use.  However, I don't receive any financial compensation from Gossamer Gear, am under no obligation to make favorable reviews, and all reviews are based on my own opinions.