Friday, December 15, 2017

Not-so-famous Arches

Two months ago this parking area echoed with excited 2nd graders. Now it is eerily silent in the predawn bitingly cold air.
Not the real balanced rock. But less people out this way.
This week, one of the second graders ran up to me excitedly and gave me a hug, “When are we going on another field trip, Ranger Joan?” She remembers like it was yesterday.

I love that the kids remember me and their field trip so well. That’s what makes being a ranger worthwhile— this positive impression. A seasonal job isn’t easy. I’ve been laid off of my park job for a month and won’t be rehired until January. I’m only working my other part time job in the meantime. More time for hiking but less income. Tradeoffs.

I decide to come back here to check out an area of the park I’ve never explored. Visible on the skyline but past the “4WD only” warning sign. I leave my car and set out on foot down the sandy road. At this early hour, no traffic.

Finally, a fish-shaped sign reads “Eye of the Whale Arch.”
The sun is just coming up and makes the sandstone glow.
Peering through, deciding to find a way up there.
That’s the only marked arch in this playground of Entrada fins. Seeing others requires routefinding and following the leave no trace practice of restricting travel to slickrock and washes while avoiding dunes and cryptobiotic soil crust.
Following washes full of animal tracks.
Washes are good place to start exploring since you can find them on a map. Follow the blue lines. Sometimes they lead to pouroffs but not always.
Some arches are hidden ribbons of rock. But see that light pouring underneith?
It only needs to be three feet in one direction to qualify as an arch.
There are over 2000 arches here but seeing a new one for the first time still takes my breath away.
A small detour. Just a few miles away is the Willow Springs dinosaur tracksite. So I hike out the 4WD road again and this time there is traffic in the form of a single jeep.
165 million years ago, a three-toed, meat-eating therapod walked across the tidal-flats along the shallow sea that was here at that time.
Returning back the way I came. Then up a wash. Relief at getting off the road again since it was so "crowded". Then, at the slickrock, climbing up. There are dropoffs. Continuing anyway despite a fear of heights. Fear is just a feeling, right?
Scaling boulders. Pack waiting down below.
Peeking up for a view of this arch.
Wiggling up a crack between the fins.
Feeling the warmth of the soft light radiating off the rock, making the winter less biting.
Because at the top of a fin, its expansive and quiet and for once it's not cold.
Up here.
Roadwalking can be done past dark. So I stay out later to watch the sunset.
This spot was surprising. Hard to believe that something in plain site of a busy landmark could offer such solitude and beauty. And have so few human footprints.

10 comments:

  1. Really enjoying your exploration of the area and your perspective. Thanks for sharing. The most important work you do is helping the kids appreciate the natural world.
    Take care my friend!

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    1. Thanks, SlowBro! It's very satisfying finding work that feels important.

      Hope you are enjoying preparing for the CDT next year!

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  2. You are living my life backward...or I am living yours? I wouldn't trade my seasonal time for anything. I'm not sure about DOI but Forest Service now allows long term seasonals to apply for merit permanent jobs.

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    1. Haha yes, Mary, it does feel like doing it in reverse. However, I know my young self wouldn't have enjoyed having the seasonal life. Back then, I wanted a house and stable job with benefits and a retirement account. Now, I know what that's like and I have learned to be more tolerant of uncertainty, because I know it allows me to do work that I really enjoy day to day and live in beautiful places. Though it still breaks my heart every time I move and I wish I could stay longer in order to learn the natural history more deeply.

      I will be able to apply for permanent jobs after 24 months through the Land Management Workforce Flexibility Act.

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  3. I love how your story wends through past experiences which led to you being who/what/where you are now. Beauti pics!

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  4. Does "entrada fin" refer to a fin of entrada sandstone? (https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Entrada_Sandstone)

    One of my long-ago friends became a geologist, but before that he got several of us pre-high-schoolers to go out poking around with him, finding shark teeth, crocodile vertebrae, and lots of other unexpected things in North Dakota.

    Meanwhile, I admire your willingness to go off and find the silence.

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    1. Yes, the fins are entrada sandstone, from the Jurassic. Many arches are in the entrada sandstone. The fins are formed this way: https://www.nps.gov/arch/learn/nature/geologicformations.htm

      It's fun to tag along with geologists and find unexpected things. Lots of that stuff out there if you know how to look and are curiously inclined.

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    2. You might also like this if you haven't seen it yet:

      Sirena's Wanderings, "Butte Fault/Horsethief Route, Grand Canyon" at http://bit.ly/2kGqiHT

      She gets around.

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    3. Yes Sirena's trips are always inspiring, this one is exceptional!

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