Lower Muley Twist in Capitol Reef

“Jan, I might turn around if it gets bad,” I reluctantly admit.

It’s the third day of our trip. I'm tired and frustrated by how sore my body feels. It’s been two and a half months since the surgery and my body isn't used to carrying a 30 lb pack (due to 6 L of water). The trail description of “steep exposure” up ahead sounds intimidating.

Grumpy Joan trudging uphill (Photo by Jan)

“We could just take a few trips with our stuff over the sketchy part,” Jan coaxes, “Let’s wait and see how bad it is.”

When we get to a false summit, I whine, “I’ll bet we aren’t even a quarter of the way there.”

Jan pulls out her map, "We are more than halfway there. You're already past the exposed section."

I realize I'm being an idiot.

Biscuitroot (Lomatium)

Jan shouts “Biscuitroot!” and I run over and leap about excitedly. My energy has miraculously returned when when plants are involved. Or maybe my overactive imagination was getting the better of me thinking I was in worse off shape than I actually was. Thank goodness Jan is so unfailingly positive.

Dwarfed by massive alcoves

Lower Muley Twist Canyon is known for the massive alcoves that envelop you. The Mormon pioneers said this canyon was so narrow and windy it could "twist a mule" which gives the name Muley Twist. We twist our way through miles of canyon and check out the cowboy graffiti from the 1920's.

A few weeks ago, I found rusted out tobacco tins north of Moab, so it's neat to see one with the print still on it in the shelter of an alcove.

We set up camp within a huge rock bowl that seems like a giant amphitheater.

Extended testing of the suitability of this site for camping AKA napping(Photo by Jan)

This spot is relatively protected from the ever-present wind, though we still get some gusts.

After dinner, we scramble up slickrock to giant pools of water teeming with water boatmen. Then, we chase sunset, which eludes us in the twists of the canyon.

How'd you manage to get up there, Jan?

The sweet song of canyon wrens wakes me before dawn. As we take our first steps down the canyon, first light hits the highest rocks behind us, glowing orange.

The side-trip to Hamburger Rocks isn't marked. We re-trace our steps three times to find a way up  that won't damage the biological soil crust. The "Hamburgers" are hoodoos in the Navajo Sandstone. I immediately climb up and start jumping from the top of one hoodoo to the next in a long arc.

Hamburger Rock Challenge (Photo by Jan)

Those of you who have hiked long trails may know of traditions such as the ice cream challenge or 4-state challenge. I decide to invent my own challenge that involves making a loop of the hoodoos without touching the ground. The reward is an imaginary root-beer float. Jan and I make slurping noises as we pantomime sipping them from imaginary straws. Benefit: less calories than a real float!

Muley Tanks are the next destination. We weren't sure what kind of tanks we'd find- Sherman tanks or tall metal tanks with ladders like on the Arizona Trail? These tanks are natural rock pools of water made by flowing water. An oasis.

Muley Tanks

The wind picks up on the hike back to the trailhead. I notice rock outcrops that look exactly like Entrada sandstone, which is the layer of rock that forms arches at Arches National Park. Only these rocks seem out of place- everything is so topsey-turvey here along the Waterpocket Fold.

Final couple of miles through the Strike Valley

Then back at the trailhead, we meet a group of geology enthusiasts and they confirm that it is in fact Entrada and show us a geology book that helps us understand all the layers out here.

In the evening, we are tired so we decide to go find a FS road to disperse camp. As we drive through washes, Jan decides we can take imaginary “washes” (like in a shower) and it will make us clean. So, we pantomime doing our hair and scrubbing our pits whenever the car dips down to a wash. This way we don’t have to waste time actually going to town for a shower. Works just as well as our imaginary root-beer floats. In that it makes us laugh.

Jan sleeps in her car while I set up my tent in a wash for protection from the wind.

Jan has a pretty sweet setup for sleeping in her car. So cozy for watching the sunset after another great backpacking trip.

The luxury of car camping with Jan: fresh veggies from the cooler to add to our hot soup and hot cocoa for dessert.

Jan is a pro at lining up her car to make a sheltered spot from the wind for sunset-viewing.

The view of the Henry Mountains with the moon

More Information

Muley Twist Canyon (NPS)

Permits are required for all backcountry camping in Capitol Reef National Park. Be sure to pack out all your trash and toilet paper.

Astragalus with pollinator friend