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| Misty morning |
The ridgewalking seemed to stretch for miles but there were only tiny glimpses of sky through the tunnel of green. The reality of southeastern forests is that the nature here envelops you. A jungle-like greenery seemed to reach out to fill the air. Thick spider webs adhered to sweaty skin as if stuck with superglue. Nature was constantly flying into my eyes (no-see-ums!), buzzing in my ears, and biting through my skin (ticks, sweatbees, mosquitos!). Even the air itself seemed thick to breathe, laden with humidity.
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| Wading through. |
Along the ridge, beauty could be found not by looking out, but looking close at the tangle of life.
Rocks jutted up along the spine created ideal habitat for lichen and rockcap fern. Hill-topping butterflies danced along the ridge looking for mates.
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| Red-spotted purple (Limenitis arthemis) mimics the coloration of the poisonous pipevine swallowtail to avoid getting eaten. |
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| Rock with lichen and mosses. |
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| Tall bellflower |
Little did I know that the BMT trail maintainers refer to this remote, jungle-like section as the “Heart of Darkness." Dedicated volunteers do regular brushing to open up the trail but the brambles grow back quickly each year. I hiked for miles through freshly brushed-out trail, thankful for their hard work.
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| The culprit. Also, delicious. |
But then I got to the end of the maintained section, where the brambles were thick and high. If only I'd checked the BMT website, I would have seen their warning. But alas, I didn't plan ahead.
How long do you hike through blackberries before you turn around? What if you are on an out-and-back? Knowing the further you go, that it only adds to the distance you will have on the way back.
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| Putting on my rainpants and diving into the neck-high mess. |
I made it a mile. Had to because I was out of water in 90 degree heat and needed to get to the next spring. But after filling up at the spring, I cut my trip short and turned around. I'd had enough up-close nature.
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| Always a good night's rest and thankful for a bugnet. |
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| Side trip from Sixmile Gap up to Waucheesi Mountain. Finally got a view, even though the communication tower and trash detracted from the ambiance. |
Details
This out-and-back backpacking trip was along the Benton Mackaye Trail from TN Hwy 68 to near Round Top (and back). It included parts of Sections 14, 15, and 16. This section is lightly used and no other people were seen.
The Benton Mackaye Trail Association has a great website with all the resources, maps, and information you need. Check it before you go so you can avoid problems.
I'm impressed you are seeing the good things. It's hard when you get to have a "type"--e.g. mine is alpine lakes with lots of views.
ReplyDeleteThe homesickness for openness, tall mountains, and exposed rocks is a constant struggle but doable since I know plants here and find them fascinating. Alpine lakes, well, there is no substitute, just hope I'll get back to them soon. ;)
DeleteGood description - 'Thick'. Hope your bug repellent was effective. Thanks for sharing this adventure.
ReplyDeleteFor bugs, I have better luck with swift removal rather than repellent. Even with permethrin in my clothes, the bugs are just so hungry. Leg hair helps me feel the crawling ticks. Eye drops flush out the no-see-ums that dive-bomb my eyeballs. Mostly I play mental games to tell myself that I'm part of the food chain.
DeleteConradian forests. Mysterious bramble groomers. Delicious culprits. What's next?!
ReplyDeleteLove reading your posts on the BMT as I'm about to start thru hiking it in a couple of weeks (in sections, over the next year as time allows). So inspired by your posts, as always. If you're ever looking for a hiking buddy to do a section of the BMT as a one-way (shuttling cars to each trailhead), let me know. I live in Waynesville, NC, so close enough to meet up wherever. And I'm an introvert too, so I promise I don't talk incessantly. ;-)
ReplyDeleteHi Nancy, small world :) I hiked this section with a couple of friends during the last week of June 2018. It was pretty brutal and we drastically reduced our plan. If I had been alone I would have turned back for sure.
DeleteWell hey there, Smoky Scout! :-). My plans fell through to start the BMT this summer, but it sounds like that wasn't necessarily a bad thing!
DeleteMmm, despite your misgivings for the closeness of the forest, I'm loving your posts from my a/c! We pretty much don't hike in the summer due to the heat so I'm soaking in everyone else's hiking posts this summer.
ReplyDeleteThanks so much, Misti! The heat has been absolutely brutal, but I sort of got used to coping. I can't stand staying inside.
DeleteYou're right, it's not a Jan cherry pickin'delight.
ReplyDeleteJan. Would. Not. Like!
I found your blog while doing Standing Indian research - good stuff! As for the "Heart of Darkness" I tackled it with friends the last weekend of June 2018, starting from Beaverdam Bald and going south. If I had been alone I would have turned around. It wasn't any fun, couldn't see our feet, brambles neck high, and the last 5 miles to Waucheesi Mtn were in a downpour. We changed plans and did dayhikes northbound for the next 3 days, varying degrees of maintenance in progress. Whew! Thanks for the great writeup.
ReplyDeleteNeat! Thanks for commenting. I'd been wondering about the part north of this section. Those BMT trail maintainers sure have their work cut out for them. Beautiful area for sure.
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