DIY Gaiters

Quite a fashion statement

I've been dreaming of sewing myself custom gaiters for years, and finally made some last fall.  They have quickly become one of my favorite pieces of gear, and I wore them every day last week on my trip to the Michigan sand dunes.

Gaiters are only useful under specific conditions though.  They are ideal for hiking anywhere dirt and sand tend to fly into your shoes.  They've also been useful for bushwhacking through tall grass and brambles, and on overgrown trails.  My gaiters keep my legs warm and protected when I want to wear a skirt, and can easily be pushed down when it gets hot.

Dirty Girl Gaiters, which seem to be very popular out on the PCT, come in cool and hip bright patters, but only go up to your ankles.  To make my gaiters, I started with this pattern and stretchy floral fabric to fit around my shoes, but then added on an upper portion of lightweight synthetic salvaged from old hiking pants.  They attach to my shoelaces by a velcro tab, and to a velcro strip superglued to backs of my shoes.

A triangle of velcro on my shoe keeps the gaiter in place

Glassmine Gap to Winding Stair Gap

It's been hot and steamy with temperatures in the upper 90's, which is even hotter than normal for Georgia.  Sensible people might stay home in the air conditioning, but I was itching to backpack, and Still Waters said she'd go with me as long as we camped near water.  So, we figured out a backpacking trip with shorter miles than usual so we could take it easy- another section that we hadn't done along the Appalachian Trail in North Carolina from Glassmine Gap to Winding Stair Gap.  

Stopping to get gas in the blazing heat, I was apprehensive.  Many years ago, I got heat stroke and dehydration and ended up in the hospital with an IV, and have always been very cautious about hiking in the heat since then.  But at our trailhead at Rock Gap, NC, a comfortable breeze greeted us.  I was so relieved how cool it was up at this high elevation!  We were also starting out late in the afternoon to avoid the hottest part of the day, and only had 2.5 miles to get to camp near Glassmine Gap.

Hemlock and Still Waters

The mid-summer wildflowers were gorgeous along this section, and I was so excited to finally see the open flowers of wood's bunchflower (Veratrum woodii), a plant that's been a mystery to me for several years.  I'd seen the leaves for many years, but never know what it was because I'd never seen the flowers.  Now, I suspect it's because they flower during the hottest time of year when I'd always previously avoided hiking in the southeast-- usually by escaping to other parts of the country.

Wood's Bunchflower

From Glassmine Gap, we followed the Long Branch Trail about 0.2 miles down to a campsite in a small rhododendron-lined cove.   We dipped our toes in the icy stream and they grew cold after only a moment of soaking.  I slept soundly in my hammock listening to the sounds of the babbling stream filling the valley.

Along the Long Branch Trail

The next morning, we traced our route back to the car at Rock Gap.  I dunked my head under the spring at Rock Gap shelter, and then took off my shirt and drenched it in the water, before putting it back on.  This is my trick to staying very cool when it's warm.  Refreshed, I took more photos of the lovely flowers near the spring.

Turk's cap lily (Lilium superbum)

Bee balm (Monarda didyma)

At Rock Gap, we parted ways-- Still Waters headed out north on the AT 3.7 miles to Winding Stair Gap.  I hopped into the car and drove to Winding Stair Gap, where I left my car.  Then I set out for an out and back hike along the AT towards Rock Gap, passing Still Waters on the way, reaching Rock Gap, and then turning around and walking back to Winding Stair Gap again.  In this way, we both got to do the entire section, and I got to stretch my long-legs and get in the miles I'd been craving.

It was such a delightful surprise that it never felt too hot while hiking, even though I know it was dreadfully hot down in Atlanta.  It was wonderful to be up high in the cool North Carolina mountains, never too far from a cool stream or spring.

We hear thunder far off, but never got any rain.

Wesser Bald Overnight

Ever notice how sometimes you make a decision and it sets you down a path where everything clicks and good things just keep happening, and everything is beautiful-delicious-wondrous-cool breezes-sparkily?

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I decided to hike from Tellico Gap along the Appalachian trail in North Carolina, keeping with my intention to continue section hiking the AT.  I'd though I'd hike this solo, but shifted the plan to hike with Still Waters.  This trip ended up being totally extraordinary.

Rosebay rhododendron were in full splendor all along the trail.  The floral color scheme seemed to be all rosy, with lots of bee balm, the speckled red berries of solomon's plume, purple-flowering raspberry, and firepink.

The botanical highlight of the day for me may have looked really boring to most people-- the seemingly unremarkable flower stalk of a ratty-looking plant.  But I whooped with delight to have finally found the flowers (even though they were only buds) of the wood's bunchflower (Veratrum woodii).  This plant has baffled me for two and a half years-- ever since I moved to Georgia, I've seen its leaves on many hikes, and never knew what the heck it was.  A few months ago, a friend finally identified this plant.  This plant is in the lily family, and the leaves can be confused with those of wild leeks/ ramps but these don't smell.  Non-flowering plants are not uncommon in GA and NC, but this is the first flower stalk I've seen.  One cool thing about this plant is that the flowers at the bottom of the stalk are all male, while the upper flowers are perfect (i.e. have both male and female parts).  I'm tempted to go back and see it in full bloom so I can see them for myself.

Flower stalk of wood's bunchflower

It was only 1.4 miles to the fire tower on Wesser Bald, but we were already drenched in sweat from the heat when we got there.  Several families were enjoying the 360-view already, so we continued north to check out Wesser Bald shelter, which was only another 0.8 miles down the trail.  On the way, we filled up our water containers at the very nice spring.  After reading the shelter registry and looking around, we decided to turn around and climb back up to the bald to camp.  Still Waters had never camped on a bald before, and it seemed like it might be cooler higher up.

By the time we got back, everyone had cleared out.  There was a small shady spot perched on a ridge down from the tower, just wide enough for Still Water's tent and with two trees perfectly spaced for my hammock.  Everywhere were sweet tangy plentiful black raspberries and blackberries.  Mmmmm.

We spent the evening up on the tower, having a leisurely dinner and then relaxing.  It felt like we were floating above the trees.  Mountains stretched out in all directions.  We caught a cool breeze.  Birds swooped, bees hummed.  Thunderheads moved off beyond the horizon.  Clouds slowly transformed to rosy pink.  The sun set.  Stars came out.  Fireworks sparked in a valleys below. 

The next morning, we climbed the firetower again to watch the sunrise and eat breakfast.  Then, we set out in opposite directions--  I headed north towards the NOC so I could finish this section.  Still Waters returned to Tellico Gap to get her truck, and then drove to the Nantahala Outdoor Center (NOC) to park and hiked in to meet me.  We met back up again at a big lunch log-- I had stopped to chat with a woman who led rafting trips for kids.  Still Waters arrived and had been talking to a really nice guy, trail name "The Geek" who does trail maintenance.  We all rested and chatted for a while.

Sunrise from Wesser Bald

Still Waters and I got back to the NOC in time to meet our friends Copper, her daughter, and SHOE for a delicious lunch.  It was so good to hang out with them, and then we all went over to Fontana Dam and finished the day with  ice cream.  What a sweet day!

Biting bugs, false bugbane, and (imaginary) bears

This weekend, I headed out for another solo overnight backpacking trip to see the Catawba rhododendrons on top of Standing Indian Mountain in North Carolina.  (Botanical aside: You may recall that a few weeks ago, the rhododendrons were blooming at Lake Russell, but those were a different, lighter pink, lower elevation species called rosebay rhododendron.  The ones on top of Standing Indian are the higher elevation Catawba rhododendron.)

The Appalachian Trail curves around the Standing Indian Basin, and I combined two side trails to form a loop hike with the AT (the loop is described here, though I opted to do the longer version down the Kimsey Creek Trail).  Starting at the Standing Indian Backcountry Information booth, I ascended the gentle Long Branch Trail, and reached the AT at Glassmine Gap.  It was easy walking all the way to Big Spring Shelter, and a short steep climb up Albert Mountain.  I'd heard about the great view from the fire tower on top of this mountain, and I felt really lucky that the day was clear.  Mountains in all directions, cotton-ball clouds.  Breathing in the sweet air and soaking in the view, I felt better than I had all week.

View from on top of the fire tower on Albert Mountain

As I ate lunch on the fire tower, I chatted with a section hiker from Switzerland.  It always amazes me how people travel so far to hike this trail that I get to hike all the time.  He told me his story of the storm three days ago.  Down where I live, we'd had thunder and high winds, but up where he was at Plumorchard Gap Shelter, the storm was intense, and the hail tore leaves off the trees.  Even in this section of the AT, the forest floor was littered in what looked like salad greens.

After descending very steeply down the other side of Albert Mountain (sometimes on my hands and tush), it began to get really hot and I hadn't been feeling very well to begin with.  At a stream, I dunked my head under the water, and felt better after cooling off.  I set off at a slower pace, hiking on autopilot, and staring blankly at the ground.  Not exactly my usual observant, wildflower-seeking self.

12 miles into the hike, I reached Carter Gap Shelter, and stopped to fill my water containers for the evening.  At the spring, I overheard two boys telling their mom how when they had their own kids, they'd take their kids to do fun things like riding dirt bikes or relaxing on the beach-- definitely not backpacking.  This made me laugh because I know when I was a kid, I complained too about always going camping, and not being able to stay home and hang out with my friends.  I hoped this mom knew she was doing them a service by sharing her love of the outdoors with them.

I stopped an hour later to have my supper, and then continued hiking for another two and a half hours, dinner giving me an extra energy boost.  I hadn't intended to make it even close to Standing Indian Mountain, but I ended up camping half-way up the mountain anyway, after doing about 16 miles total.  I found a nice stealth site, hidden safely from view of the trail, near a few blooming Catawba rhododendrons.

I haven't mentioned this before, but all day long, whenever I'd stop walking, the biting insects (small flies and mosquitoes mainly) swarmed.  They darting into my eyes, nipping relentlessly at my ankles.  But I could outwalk them, so I kept moving.  At camp when I had to stay still, I twitched tying up bear-rope, trying to shake them off me to no avail.  The biting and buzzing drove me into the safety of my hammock.  Faced with an hour left of daylight (it was only 8:30), I was too exhausted to do much, but my mind was racing too much to fall asleep. 

I find the most difficult part of solo backpacking to be the hour after the sun goes down, but before the stars come out and I finally fall asleep.  I try to relax and watch the light fade.  But sometimes, my imagination gets the better of me.  Sometimes, an old stump looks like ominous figures on the horizon, and the rustle of leaves sounds like it could be a bear out to devour me.  I can feel my heart pounding as the scary stories spin wildly in my head.  Does this happen to other people too?  What do you do?

Finally, I flipped on my iphone and scrolled through my podcasts, looking for a distraction.  I found a guided meditation which I hadn't noticed I'd downloaded.  This seemed like a better option than depressing news shows, so I gave it a try.  It turned out to be a meditation that I'd learned a few years ago when I took a meditation class.  A soothing voice began, "Breathe deeply, and close your eyes."  I realized I hadn't been breathing, and I reluctantly closed my eyes.  She continued,  "Now say to yourself-- I am safe, I am content, I am at ease."  And I thought, "Actually, a bear is probably stalking me right now."  Then I laughed at all my worry over imaginary bears.  I realized that I was going to be OK, and laughed at myself my irrational fears.  I started to relax.  Then she continued the meditation, and said to extend this good wish, like a prayer, out to loved ones, then friends, and then out to all the other people around us.  I imagined the guy from Switzerland and the family at the shelter, and then all the other hikers I'd talked to today.  I concentrated with my whole heart on wishing them safe and comfortable and content.  I imagined them tucked into their sleeping bags, listening to the night sounds of the forest as they drift off to sleep.  Somehow, this calmed me.  I am not religious and don't pray, but what this women on the podcast said made complete sense to me, and I fell into a deep sleep.

The next morning, I was up before dawn, and on my way during my favorite part of the day-- in the cool air watching the sunrise from the ridgetop on the shoulder of Standing Indian Mountain.  Well-rested and feeling great, I tunneled through the thicket of bursting pink-purple rhododendron.  I couldn't believe my good luck-- the first fire-red rays of the sun electrified the huge bursts of purple flowers. 

Catawba rhododendron near the summit of Standing Indian

I enjoyed a hazy view from the summit, and headed down the other side of the mountain to Deep Gap.  There, I turned onto the Kimsey Creek Trail, back towards my car.  I'd hiked the Kimsey Creek Trail the previous weekend with the Southeast Women Backpackers, and this week I was delighted to find a few new flowers blooming that I hadn't seen previously.  The most fascinating was tassel-rue, also called false bugbane, (Trautvetteria caroliniensis), which is in the buttercup family.  It doesn't have any petals- the white showy things are long stamens (the pollen producing part).

tassel-rue or false bugbane

The rest of the hike was beautiful, though my knee gave me some trouble again, so I guess it hadn't healed from my crazy 20-miler two weeks ago.  I wrapped it with an bandage, and that helped a lot.  The odd thing was that it only hurt on the steep downhills, and was fine on the flat and uphill sections.  Guess I'll have to stick with hikes that only go uphill. Ha ha-- for those of you who know me, you already know that I love the uphills, and this just gives me further incentive.

Bandaged knee

Update: New Years Resolution (I did 20!)

This weekend I finally achieved my New Years goal of hiking 20 miles in a single day.   It was thrilling to set a goal that seemed far-reaching and actually accomplish it.  

My inspiration came last weekend, hiking with two ladies with the Trail Dames who were stepping on the AT for the first time.  Watching them strive to do something beyond what they'd ever done before made me want to try for something that pushed my limits too. 

I picked a section along the AT in North Carolina that I'd never done for a solo out and back.  I choose this section because it had a cool feature (Wayah Bald) 10 miles from my starting point (Winding Stair Gap), knowing that an out-and-back would give me 20 miles.   But I also promised myself I'd turn around early if I was feeling tired.

I've been building up to 20 miles for the past five months--  during the week, I climb my neighborhood hills with my fully-loaded backpack (looking like a dork), and I've been carrying a full 30 lb. pack on my dayhikes or going backpacking every weekend.  More importantly, I'd been building my confidence by hiking solo, first on familiar trails (where I knew I wouldn't get lost) and then in unfamiliar territory.  

Starting from Winding Stair Gap (3800 feet),  within the first mile, the trail passed a waterfalls and a cove rich with trilliums, clintonia lily, and umbrella leaf.  I took so many photos in the first mile, I never thought I'd have time to make it to my goal.

 The trail climbed to an opening at mile 4 where there was a side trail up to Siler Bald.  The peak (5216 feet) offered a 360-degree view of incredible mountains in all directions.

Siler Bald

The trail then descended to Wayah Gap (4200 feet), and climbed back up to Wine Spring Bald.  I finally decided to really go for it when I spotted my second patch of yellow lady slipper orchids;  I was cruising down the trail and spotted them  halfway down the hillside.  I took it as a sign that I was totally grooving.  Whenever I am distracted, or if I'm not feeling 100%, I will miss spotting flowers, so seeing them was a good indication that I was fully alert and feeling the "flow" of my hike.

View of lady slippers from trail.

Zoomed-in view from trail

Close up.

The final two miles to Wayah Bald (5350 feet) were the most botanically rich-- hillsides were thick with a diversity of wildflowers.  Again, I stopped to admire and photograph and ohh and ahhh.    The clouds had rolled across some of the mountains when I finally reached the CCC-build tower at Wayah Bald.  But I still had fabulous views in the other directions.  After I had lunch, it hit me that I'd just done 10 miles in four hours-- I was so excited but tried not to think about it.  And I also couldn't believe I'd seen so many flowers-- including three separate patches of yellow lady slipper orchids. 

The return trip seemed more difficult, with the long descent, and then ascent, and then descent roller coaster.  In all, it was 4000 feet total elevation gain-- more than I'd ever done before though it turned out to be gradual.

The most difficult part was when my knee/leg starting hurting on mile 17 during a rough downhill section, and then suddenly, the pain was so bad I had to stop.  I knew I had been going too fast, but I had been enjoying the feeling of trying to push myself.  I haven't experienced pain while hiking like that ever before.  It was scary, so I stopped, took a deep breath, and took inventory.  I realized that I wasn't hungry, which is alarming because I'm ALWAYS hungry while hiking, and for me, this indicates a problem.  Then I noticed I still had two liters of water left, which meant I hadn't been drinking enough.  (During college, I ended up twice in the hospital with an IV for dehydration before I figured out that I was especially prone to dehyration and needed to both eat and drink during prolonged, intense exercise.)  After a snack and adding "emergency" sports drink mixes to my water (which, thankfully, Still Waters had insisted I carry), I became more clear-headed and the pain subsided.

Was 20 miles really any more difficult than the 14 miles I'd limited myself to before I set out my New Years Resolution?  Perhaps not physically, because I'd been training for it, but it was harder mentally because I was more afraid of getting tired or injured.  Once again, the lesson for me is that the most difficult challenge is the mental part of hiking--  trusting myself and having confidence in my abilities.

What's next?  I don't know but right now I feel like I could do absolutely anything.

No ladies on the Ladyslipper Loop Trail, but...

Rosebay rhododendrons in full splendor.

The Ladyslipper Loop Trail at the Lake Russell Recreation Area winds a little over six miles through rolling hills.  This trail is also used by mountain bikers and horses, so it was wide and rutted.  Still Waters and I chose this trail on a day with 70% chance of thunderstorms.  We only had a few sprinkles and the sun stayed out giving us "sun showers."  We never did find any ladyslippers, but the rosebay rhododendrons and mountain laurel put on a show that more than made up for it.

We started beside Nancytown Lake, full of cattails and buzzing with activity.  The trail begins by climbing to a ridge, then descends again, crossing a few streams.  Several intersections were unmarked, and we had to choose between equally used trails and old roads.  Somehow, we always ended up OK, eventually finding a trail sign.  But it was always a bit dicey. 

A few minutes after I said I was ready to stop for lunch, we rock-hopped across a stream.  Pausing, I noticed the sound of rushing water, and was reminded of a recent conversation with waterfall enthusiast Karen.  She said she often finds waterfalls by listening for them.   Curious, we bushwhacked down the hillside and came upon a hidden falls down below the trail.  It was absolutely stunning, framed by thickets of mountain laurel and rosebay rhododendron  heavy with bright pink blossoms. Incredibly, the sun peaked out from behind the stormclouds, lighting up the water and making the flowers twinkle.

Hidden falls near the Ladyslipper Trail.

On the way home, we stopped by David and Katies in Homer, which was recommended to me by Pyro.  For those of you in the area, this Amish market is backpackers paradise-- they've got all sorts of dried veggies (to-die-for dried okra!), dried fruit, tons of powders you won't find anywhere else (like cheese powder and dried buttermilk), dried soup mixes, and spices.  It's all much more affordable than buying expensive pre-packaged meals from REI.  Last time I was there I talked a long time to the owner-- nice guy, and he prides himself on getting local and made-in-the-USA goods.  I highly recommend this place to all of you from Georgia-- I don't usually like to recommend stores or products, but I'm making an exception because this place is so remarkable.  Not to mention they have hand-dipped ice cream-- always the perfect ending to a hike.

Section Hiking the Georgia AT (Part 3: Hightower to Gooch)

This Saturday, I hiked with the Trail Dames 8.2 miles from Hightower to Gooch Gap on the Appalachian Trail.  It was a day to savor being outside in perfect hiking weather.  Nine of us met at Woody Gap on GA 60.  A record four of us were sporting hiking skirts (for those that are skeptical, I've got two words: easy peeing.  Haha!).  Thankfully, two women had brought trucks for the forest service roads, so we hopped in for the ride to Gooch Gap, the end of our hike.  We left one truck at Gooch Gap, and all piled into the other truck, Indra exclaiming that she'd never ridden in the bed of a truck before.  On the bumpy ride along FS 42 to Hightower, we previewed the flame azalea lighting up the forest.

The fabulous AT hikers.  Photo by Sandi.

This was the first AT hike for Sue, Amy and Indra, and by the end, they were already talking about their plans to take on the rest of Georgia.  Sharing the hike with women new to the AT gave the rest of us a wonderful, fresh perspective 

The first few miles took us up and down and up and down, and included the infamous Sassafras Mountain.  Apparently, Sandi and the others totally missed the summit, where we'd agreed to stop to reconvene for lunch, and had to backtrack.  Way to go for blazing right past the mountain, as if the climb were no big deal!  With that, Sandi earned her new Trail Name-- Sassafras (Sassy for short).  It definitely suits her bubbly personality, plus sassafras are way cool plants, with their three different leaf types, not to mention we all love root beer!

At lunch, Salt (Kristen) demonstrated how to setup a hammock, since Sassy (Sandi) was interested in learning about them for backpacking. (Hehe-- we may soon have another convert!). 

After refueling, we set off again, Denise, Sandra, Still Waters, and the others paving the way.  We passed through more diverse forest types with different plant assemblages-- here were foam flower, wood betony, columbine, Indian cucumber, purple meadow parsnip, wild yam.  Butterflies circled around us.  Monarch caterpillars munched on milkweed. 

Monarch caterpillar on milkweed

It was a pleasure hiking with other people who enjoy nature, and who take the time to notice interesting things along the trail.  I loved it when Indra and Sue would stop to point stuff out.  Together, we saw (and sniffed out!) so much-  in full bloom were a profusion of Catesby's trillium, wild geranium, solomon's plume and solomon's seal, mayapple, and flame azelea.

Salt and Sassy in their hiking skirts checking out the flame azalea

Cooper Gap, 3.5 miles into the hike, marked the last section of the AT in GA for me.  It didn't feel like the end of anything though, not just because we still weren't halfway into the hike, but because my experience of the Georgia section of the AT has been a jumping off point for exploring more sections of the AT and other long distance trails.  Plus, I'm hooked on revisiting the same sections of the AT in different seasons.

Finishing my section hike of the GA AT.

Now, let's go hike some more!

The 4.7 miles from Cooper to Gooch Gap had been transformed in the last two months since we hiked it in a very cold rain.  The sun lit up the spring-green new growth, and it was even warm enough to linger at Justice Creek to cool our feet.

The last few miles brought dwarf crested iris in bloom, a few stray jack in the pulpits, yellow wakerobin, canada violet,  wood sorrel, showy orchis (alas already past blooming-- but now I know where it is for the future), two patches of pink lady slipper orchid, and my botanical highlight of the day, a small yellow lady slipper orchid.  At the end of the trip, Sue declared they deserved a Certificate for all the plants they'd learned about!

Yellow lady slipper orchid

By the time the last of us reached Gooch Gap and had a snack, Still Waters and Salt returned from picking up the trucks, and we all headed back to Woody.  It was such a lovely day to enjoy with new and old friends.